2025 g14 GPU fan at 0 RPM under load, exhausted software fixes. Planning to DIY replace the fan — realistic fix?
Update to my earlier post. Full rundown of where I'm at:
The problem: GPU (RTX 5070 Ti) fan stays at 0 RPM under real thermal load — confirmed across Task Manager, HWiNFO64, G-Helper, and FurMark, consistently. GPU hits 82-87°C sustained (real gaming and FurMark stress test at 100% usage for a full 60-sec run) with zero fan response. CPU fan works completely normally throughout.
MyASUS's own diagnostic tool ran a forced fan test and the GPU fan DID spin during that specific test — flagged it afterward as a hardware issue anyway. It just never responds during normal automatic thermal operation, no matter how hot it gets.
Everything tried, all ruled out:
- Fan curve confirmed correctly configured (reset to factory defaults, verified shape)
- Enabled "Armoury Crate Control Interface Support" in BIOS (was disabled)
- Rolled back AND reinstalled ASUS System Control Interface (ASCI) driver
- Updated BIOS to latest version (310)
- Full clean NVIDIA driver wipe + reinstall via DDU
- Confirmed both NVIDIA and AMD drivers already at latest versions
- Attempted manual EC reset (extended power-button hold, unplugged)
- Checked Device Manager for ACPI Fan / ASCI errors
- Tested multiple GPU modes (Standard, checked Ultimate)
Leading theory : possibly a failed tach/RPM sensor rather than a dead motor. the hall-effect sensor lives inside the fan unit itself, separate circuit leg from the power/PWM line. If the EC isn't getting sensor feedback, it may never attempt to spin the fan under normal auto operation, even though the motor itself is fine (which would explain why it spun under MyASUS's forced test but nothing else).
Where I'm at now: looked into warranty repair through Best Buy (purchased there) — they quoted 4 weeks, sent out, no guarantee it's covered or fixed even with active warranty. Given the timeline, I'm considering just buying a replacement fan (found GA403WR-compatible listings, part number 13NR0MA0AP0102 among others) and doing it myself.
Question: does a full fan swap make sense here given the tach-sensor theory, or should I be looking at something else entirely?