Pure gaming performance only — three custom HE builds (€135–210). Can any of these match or beat a Wooting 60HE v1/v2 or the 80HE?
Before anything else: this is about pure gaming performance and nothing else.
I do not care about sound, "thock", RGB, looks, build quality, typing feel, premium materials or how nice it is to type on. Not a little — not at all. If a component makes the board sound worse, feel worse and look worse but registers my inputs faster or more consistently, that is the component I want.
The only things that count for me:
- real input latency (press and release)
- rapid trigger reset behaviour
- consistency and no false or missed inputs
- reliable actuation under fast repeated key presses in CS2 / Valorant
Everything else is noise. Please judge these builds on that basis only.
I've narrowed it down to three builds, each with a different PCB. Same philosophy across all three: thin blank ABS caps instead of thick PBT, no foams or switch pads, RGB off, low actuation point, rapid trigger as low as the board and plate allow.
Build 1 — ~€136
PCB: Luminkey Magger60 HE (PCB only) · Plate: FR4 2.0 mm · Stabs: screw-in PCB-mounted · Switches: Gateron KS-20 White · Case: plastic GH60 tray mount · Caps: XDA/DSA blank thin ABS · HS-certified cable
Build 2 — ~€152
PCB: Everglide SU66 Max "NO SWITCH" (comes with aluminium plate + hand-lubed stabs) · Switches: Gateron KS-20 White · Case: plastic GH60 tray mount · Caps: XDA/DSA blank thin ABS · HS-certified cable
Build 3 — ~€207
PCB: Gateron GT60 Pro+ (comes with FR4 ENIG plate + plate-mount stabs) · Switches: Gateron Magnetic Jade KS-20T (required, the PCB is tuned for the Jade series) · Case: plastic GH60 tray mount · Caps: XDA/DSA blank thin ABS · HS-certified cable
My questions — all of them purely about gaming performance:
- Which of the three would you pick for pure gaming, and why? Not which has the best spec sheet — which PCB you'd actually trust to register inputs correctly under pressure.
- Do any of these genuinely reach or beat a Wooting 60HE v2 in actual gaming? Not in marketing numbers — in how it behaves in-game. If the answer is no, I'd rather hear that now.
- Wooting owners: what rapid trigger sensitivity do you actually run day to day, and is 0.1 mm really the finest step available in Wootility? My entire reasoning rests on the assumption that Wooting is capped at 0.1 mm while these boards expose 0.005–0.01 mm. If that's wrong, the whole comparison collapses and I'll just buy a Wooting.
- Is there a PCB I've missed? GH60-compatible HE PCB, true 8 kHz polling, rapid trigger resolution below 0.02 mm. If something faster or more reliable exists in this price range, please name it.
- Would you change any component for performance reasons? Different switch, plate material, mounting style — anything where you think I'm optimising the wrong thing. Please don't suggest changes for sound or feel; I will ignore them.
- Has anyone measured any of these boards with OSLTT, LDAT or an oscilloscope? I can only find measurements for the SU66 Max and the Magger 68 (not the Magger60).
- Does the Magger60's ai03-c3 daughterboard fit standard cheap GH60 cases, or does it need a specific USB cutout?
- Is anyone actually running rapid trigger below 0.02 mm without false triggers? If yes, what plate and mounting style?
I'd genuinely rather be told I'm wrong now than after spending €200. If the honest answer is "just buy the Wooting, it performs better and it's less hassle", I'll take that.