


X-Clamps Prevail! Boltmod "upgrade" successfully removed from the XBlax!
We can all sleep soundly tonight after all!



We can all sleep soundly tonight after all!
After I showed my buddy the XBlox 360 (Lego Mod) he gave me and the Hatchling a Xenon to play with. Nice :)
It already had this really cool (lol pun) (EDIT: Not so "cool" I guess.... those w/ more experience than me are saying this is no good and could warp the MB) mod to the cooling system already to mitigate the overheating issues with these things (EDIT: I guess this is a myth?). He added heat sinks to everything, upgraded the cooling shroud and replaced the x-clamps with some bolt on aluminium plate thing. Parts of the internal metal case were also removed to improve air flow. (EDIT: Lot's of heads saying this is no bueno.... the question now is do I salvage parts and return it to stock cooling??? :/ )
UPDATE: All cooling "upgrades" have been removed and replaced with x-clamps and internal case from a donor Xenon. Thanks everyone for your warnings! The upgrade I removed looks like it was better than the GameStop version of the bolt-mod as it had some sort of putty pads between the plate and MB to apply pressure under the CPU/GPU chips. Can't add updated photos unfortunately :( guess I will make a new post....
We painted the case (and well, everything) flat black and added the plexiglass window to the top. Cutting the plastic was easy, but cutting out the metal shroud on the inside was not. I somehow managed to not cut myself :)
Gluing the plexi into the cutout was harder than expected and didn't turn out as nice as I would have liked but the Hatchling says it looks fine, so cool beans.
We used a Matrix V1 glitcher for RGH EXTCLK with recommended timings. Boots REALLY fast. Just finished DL3 config and am transferring some games for a test run. So far so good. I used wire from an old HDMI cable to wire in the chip. This was nice and small, but wouldn't work if the wires were too close together or too long. Snippy snip and some rerouting and all is well :)
The gifted setup included a HDD enclosure with a broken 20GB drive. We replaced this with a 128GB solid state drive and painted the outside to match the console. Yay, more fastness :)
I think that about sums it up! If you have any questions let us know!
SPOILER: It was wire length and proximity... shortening wires and spacing them out solved the problem.... (hopefully it still works when I put it back together)
I installed a Matrix V1 RGH EXT_CLK mod on my 16MB Xenon console. Everything worked as normal up to the glitch chip not doing anything:
I tried all 4 timings from JRunner with same result. I have confirmed 3.3V at VCC in and If I de-solder the RST wire (Point A) the glitch chip will flash blue like it's trying to glitch when I turn the unit on. I am assuming that if the light is blinking the clock wire must be good, and since I don't ever boot into RROD, the post wire must be good. Glitcher will blink with RST removed or if I remove RST and EXTCLK.
The unit came with a custom cooling mod installed. There are no X clamps just an aluminum plate with through bolts to the heat sinks.
Because of this I had to do some non standard wire routing and I am wondering if this is the issue (I had to run the wires though the little holes next to the cooler bolts). I did have everything kapton taped to the board neatly, but separated everything out for troubleshooting.
The grey wire is RST. Even when routed nicely it was pretty close to those caps... maybe that's the issue?
I have read that wires being too long or routed by the wrong thing or too close together could be the issue. As you can see wires are possibly way too long.
I have confirmed that the RST wire isn't shorted to ground, however, I am seeing about 6.18K Ohms to ground from the RST wire.
I am going to try some slightly different wire routing and shortening the wires... any suggestions before pulling this thing back apart?
Are there any additional test points on the top of the board where I can confirm my connections to the underside? I was able to do this on my jasper board, but this one is quite different.
Thanks.
I have a Xenon for parts and needed the DVD drive for my RGH1.2 Jasper & I want to update my NAND image with the new DVD key...
I have no power supply for the Xenon and these bulging capacitors make me think buying one would be a bad investment:
I was able to dump the NAND by hooking up a PicoFlasher and injecting 5v into standby power via a USB cable (pin 8 +5v and pin 3 negative):
Xbox 360 standby power via USB
Now that I have the dumps, can I extract the DVD key somehow?
UPDATE!!!
I was able to get the DVD key using KeyVault Cheker via the following steps:
After dumping NAND with JRunner, use the "Extract Files" button to export your KV info
Download KeyVault Cheker and run KeyVault Modder.
Click "Open KV Decrypted" and select the KV_en.bin in your JRunner output folder
Hopefully the DVD key it gave me is correct... no CPU key needed... time to update my NAND and see what happens :)
I got RGH1.2 working on the XBlox360 Jasper and so far it's pretty cool. I was able to use DashLaunch to setup some plugins, boot animations, and to boot into Aurora by default. Nice :)
Some Tips
Linux Stuff
sudo chmod 777 /dev/sdb in order for BadStick to recognize it.The Qestions
Thanks! Love this sub :)