Went tubing with the Komodo this weekend. It was awesome, and this was a great timer for the trip. This strap and bezel combo seems to always get so many people complimenting it. Its so legible too, and the lume is always great. The RS2 rubber strap is highly recommended.
I emailed Matt about why the matte gray dial was discontinued and why the lumed gray dial has been introduced. Fascinating stuff, and Matt always answers in such detail.
This has been making the rounds on Facebook. The Helm website now shows a new model with a Full Lume Gray dial and black markers. The other matte gray has been discontinued for now.
Personally, I'm liking this a lot more. The sheen and semi-glossy nature of a full lume dial is quite nice. The all black markers and darker dial also make it look quite striking. In some ways, this is an upgrade.
San Martin, Heron, Phorcydes, Long Island, Addiesdive and other watch brands have announced that they are being affected by the NH and Miyota movement supply shock; some of these brands are having to increase their prices or switch to other movements.
Heron is keeping the price for a final run, but in 2027 will have to raise their prices by 12%
Reason: Seiko has tightened third-party allocation and increased wholesale pricing for the NH lineup to prioritize its own internal watch production and reposition the calibers.
For those of you who have ordered Helms recently, were there any price increases? I'm assuming Matt has already secured the stock for this next set of drops but will need to adjust accordingly eventually if the situation doesn't improve.
I think Baltany, with their attention to detail, could make a really spectacular bronze watch that would sell really well. I know they have a bronze diver already but there are great opportunities with elements of what they have already done. This would be an excellent, smart casual dress watch.
Look at how popular the Kuoe bronze watch is.
My idea:
Sandwhich brown or black dial, off-white lume to maximize performance. Eastern Arabic or Chinese numbers would be amazing.
ST 36 movement with a displayback, would really move it to a more attractive offering.
41mm preferred size but the 42mm case already used by the Dirty Dozen homage is great too. 44mm could also work.
Alternatively, you could go with a smaller Seagull handwinding movement and a smaller case size.
Optional, a timing bezel could also be great. With a completely bronze bezel insert it could make the entire design more minimalist yet still functional for timing things.
It can be a bit weird to size. I just lost some weight so wasn't able to find the right fit no matter how I adjusted the links. But then I put the adjustable links on one side of the clasp and it fits beautifully, like a glove. It's now never too tight or too loose. Will consider an adjustable clasp as well but the thinness of the default clasp option makes it very comfortable, plus having an extra link adds to the articulation. I wish Matt had opted for smaller links.
Since this is an older model, I am not sure if the lug placement allows the SKX type bracelets like the newer models do, so not sure about that as an option.
Also, the lume is incredible. And the 4:30 date window, while controversial back in 2022, is something many Seiko divers do now as well. It basically gives you the symmetry of a no date while retaining the utility.
4 years with the Miyako. I remember at the time I was pining for the Christopher Ward Aquitaine GMT, and cross shopping several microbrands. Ultimately, I never went for those options and I am happier for it. It was my first microbrand watch.
Unlike many other competitors, Helms ISO rating puts it very far ahead of other brands. How many brands are willing to hit each watch with a hammer?
There are many other brands that make divers in the 600 to 900 range compared to the Miyakos 375. While they may have other advantages like design, slimness or wearability, none of them have that ISO testing.
This one has been a great "do-it-all" watch for many years. I use it for formal events, for workouts, traveling and everything in between. Once you start seeing the flieger inspirations there is a greater appreciation for it. The lume is great, and the bezel action is possibly my favorite. My largest complaint is the bracelet, I wish the links were smaller.
New Seiko 5 field watches seem to be very much in the category of the Togiak Expedition. They have compass bezels with a lumed pip, lumed numerals, day/date, smaller and slimmer, steel. No sapphire crystals, it's Hardlex. 41mm with a 13.2mm thickness.
The price is going to be 410 Euro or $480 USD on the bracelet.
In comparison, the Helm has titanium, sapphire, water testing and a selection are tested the same as ISO 6425, choice of bezel and RS2 strap, the bracelet is great, customized day/date wheel, and this comes at $340 USD. It is thicker and larger.
Sometimes I do have to think twice about buying a Helm. But just comparing it with a big brand like Seiko makes it clear that they are offering exceptional value. Few other brands do testing like they do, which is a huge value add.
If you guys are on LinkedIn, check out these excellent posts from Don Russell who is a field tester for Helm watches. He's exploring the crash sites of a C47 and Avro Lancaster. He took the Togiak and the Special Edition Komodo.