u/Prof_Kevin_Folta

DJT just set a bad precedent. His attorneys argued that the 14th amendment was antiquated and needed to be considered in a modern context. For years the same party has claimed that the Constitution is steadfast with regard to the 2nd Amendment. A lot of people are going to lose their shet when the next president issues and EO banning assault weapons and high capacity magazines, and requiring licensing, training, and insurance under the claim that it is needed to modernize the amendment.

I'm not anti-gun at all. My entire life I have heard about the 2nd Amendment being unassailable, unquestionable, and not subject to re-interpretation considering modern context.

But now the same people tell us that a President may launch Executive Orders to repeal Constitutional Amendments, and it is necessary. They say that we need to consider the 14th Amendment in the context of modern times. We have this challenged not by ratification and a Constitutional process, but a President's agenda and the courts.

Does anyone see how this will come back to affect 2A in the next administration? DJT has set quite a precedent.

(QUEST 2) If you are looking for a last minute summer B course, I'm teaching IDS2935 Information Literacy in Medicine and Agriculture. It is an incredible course that takes you through the modern disinformation ecosystems of traditional and social media, applied to current issues in medicine, farming and food. The class is six weeks, provides writing requirement, and is a really good time. I've been teaching at UF for 23 years and this class is the highlight of my year. Great discussions, relevant topics, awesome guest speakers. Come join us.

Sorry to ask this. I have renogy 2000w 24 v inverter, works great with direct connection to romex via the hot-neutral-ground direct connection. Now I need the wires out temporarily. How to release them?

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I can guess, but don't want to damage the unit

I'm reasonable with electronics, limited experience with solar. I have a solar power system with a 40A Renogy Rover. The terminals have those contacts where you gomp down a non-insulated cable end. I have thick cables as recommended, going to the battery from the regulator. They don't fit well into the space allowed. What kind of crip-on terminal end are people using? What is recommended? Suffice it to say, my solution didn't work well.

We are setting up a certified kitchen to process sausage for a small home business. The rules say we need a separate septic field (308 sq ft) for our minimal water use. They also say we need a "750 gallon grease interceptor" even though we are not generating grease. Do they mean a "grease trap"? These are small and a few hundred bucks, not a separate 750 gallon tank at thousands. Are these the same thing? What do they mean on the permit?

Hi Folks. My first experience with solar and I absolutely love it. I'm electrically competent, but experiencing a little frustration and need some expert guidance.

I have a 24V system on a Renogy 2000w inverter, Renogy Rover 40Amp charge controller, lots of battery and 800 panel w in. I am running a refrigerator and freezer that run at 120 w on average together. While the inverter should be able to handle power-up compressor spikes, I get errors on the charge controller of too much current through its "load" side.

If I put the inverter only on the battery, I get no lights anywhere. Inverter and charge controller shut down if I have them both connected, but the load directly to the battery.

Not sure why. Is this not advisable?

Is there any affordable solution out there that monitors current draw on independent devices and gates the power up on the other to when the first falls below a threshold? It seems like this should be a thing as spikes are temporary. I'd like to add a low draw air conditioner too.

Google Gemini says it should work. The match checks out, and wire gauges are all sufficient.

This is important because I have lots of battery and solar panel, but can't connect to devices without the bottlenecks. Do I just need a massive solar charge controller? Thank you. Kevin

Hi Folks. My first experience with solar, I'm electrically competent, but experiencing a little frustration and need some expert guidance.

I have a 24V system on a Renogy 2000w inverter, Renogy Rover 40Amp charge controller, lots of battery and panel w in. I am running a refrigerator and freezer that run at 120 w on average together. While the inverter should be able to handle power-up compressor spikes, I get errors on the charge controller of too much current through its "load" side.

If I put the inverter only on the battery, I get no lights anywhere. Inverter and charge controller shut down if I have them both connected, but the load directly to the battery.

Not sure why. Is this not advisable?

Is there any affordable solution out there that monitors current draw on independent devices and gates the power up on the other to when the first falls below a threshold? It seems like this should be a thing as spikes are temporary. I'd like to add a low draw air conditioner too.

Google Gemini says it should work. The match checks out, and wire gauges are all sufficient.

This is important because I have lots of battery and solar panel, but can't connect to devices without the bottlenecks. Do I just need a massive solar charge controller? Thank you. Kevin