u/Prof_Kevin_Folta

We are setting up a certified kitchen to process sausage for a small home business. The rules say we need a separate septic field (308 sq ft) for our minimal water use. They also say we need a "750 gallon grease interceptor" even though we are not generating grease. Do they mean a "grease trap"? These are small and a few hundred bucks, not a separate 750 gallon tank at thousands. Are these the same thing? What do they mean on the permit?

Hi Folks. My first experience with solar and I absolutely love it. I'm electrically competent, but experiencing a little frustration and need some expert guidance.

I have a 24V system on a Renogy 2000w inverter, Renogy Rover 40Amp charge controller, lots of battery and 800 panel w in. I am running a refrigerator and freezer that run at 120 w on average together. While the inverter should be able to handle power-up compressor spikes, I get errors on the charge controller of too much current through its "load" side.

If I put the inverter only on the battery, I get no lights anywhere. Inverter and charge controller shut down if I have them both connected, but the load directly to the battery.

Not sure why. Is this not advisable?

Is there any affordable solution out there that monitors current draw on independent devices and gates the power up on the other to when the first falls below a threshold? It seems like this should be a thing as spikes are temporary. I'd like to add a low draw air conditioner too.

Google Gemini says it should work. The match checks out, and wire gauges are all sufficient.

This is important because I have lots of battery and solar panel, but can't connect to devices without the bottlenecks. Do I just need a massive solar charge controller? Thank you. Kevin

Hi Folks. My first experience with solar, I'm electrically competent, but experiencing a little frustration and need some expert guidance.

I have a 24V system on a Renogy 2000w inverter, Renogy Rover 40Amp charge controller, lots of battery and panel w in. I am running a refrigerator and freezer that run at 120 w on average together. While the inverter should be able to handle power-up compressor spikes, I get errors on the charge controller of too much current through its "load" side.

If I put the inverter only on the battery, I get no lights anywhere. Inverter and charge controller shut down if I have them both connected, but the load directly to the battery.

Not sure why. Is this not advisable?

Is there any affordable solution out there that monitors current draw on independent devices and gates the power up on the other to when the first falls below a threshold? It seems like this should be a thing as spikes are temporary. I'd like to add a low draw air conditioner too.

Google Gemini says it should work. The match checks out, and wire gauges are all sufficient.

This is important because I have lots of battery and solar panel, but can't connect to devices without the bottlenecks. Do I just need a massive solar charge controller? Thank you. Kevin