So my kids lost some gerbils in the house. RIP guys, they’ll totally in this sump pump. It’s just for ground water and seems done pretty well with a battery back up and everything. I can pry the lid up just an inch or so and I know how to remove the unions but I can’t figure out how to remove the pump to take the lid up. Any help appreciated!
For the smaller operators here — when you're out pumping, digging lids, driving, or already dealing with a customer and another call comes in, what do you usually do?
Do you stop and answer it, let it hit voicemail and call back later, or have someone else handling the phone?
Just curious how the one- and two-truck guys manage it day to day.
I just got a postcard saying it's time to get the septic tank pumped, that it was last done in 2021. It's a long story but I live alone in a 4bdrm house so I assume the tank size? schedule? is based on a home with a family's worth of usage. (Yes, I know nothing about septic systems.) I also use and wash flannel squares for #1 so the amount of tp I use is significantly less than expected for one person. Is it safe to assume I can go another year or is it a better safe than sorry kinda thing? Are there any ways a regular joe can get a gauge on what's going on down there?
Previous lines were installed incorrectly. We had new lines installed and used our entire extra lot for field lines. We do have a dock beside a creek that feeds the river. That won't allow an aboveground tank either. Even with hundreds of feet of lines we still are having issues with it filling up. The tank does have some hairline cracks but they said that wasn't the problem...in the winter it's worse. We live in TN for perspective. Need ideas. I know being so close to the water, that the water table is high and controlled by the dam. But this is frustrating. Ty.
Title basically says it all but I am stumped on this one.
New pump installed 2023, tank pumped 2023 with new pump, tanked pumped again this summer (June).
I have a pump alarm light and high water alarm light, started last night around 10, went out to check the system this morning.
Trash tank levels are normal, slightly below the inlet line. Aeration tank is also at a normal level, running like a hot tub with the air inlet, dripping water essentially into the effluent tank.
Effluent tank is low. Probably 3-4 feet (guessing) below the water line.
Floats appear to be fine, dangling in a downward position in the aeration tank and in the effluent tank.
Cleaned the aeration tanks PVC slotted guard that protects the effluent tank from large solids coming in. Cleaned the aeration diffuser.
My septic company always tells me when they pump the tanks out that the alarm will be triggered for for 24-48 hours as new water gets into the system. I think that is what is happening here, but I am not sure since everything appears to be normal.
Any additional trouble shooting steps?
Hello,
I'm in need of some advice. I am in the process of buying a home that has now had two septic inspections performed on it's system. Our inspector said that they system was in bad shape, and the seller's inspector said that it was just fine. I have no idea who to believe and have not gotten a chance to speak to the seller's inspector yet.
Our septic inspector's report is below. He said that when the system was installed in 1989, they used a percolation test to determine if the water table levels in that area were suitable for a septic table to be installed. He basically said that based on what he saw in the tank and what he knew about that area, one could not be installed in that area today as the water table was too high for it to function properly. He also said that the baffles were severely damaged and that because of that, it was also not functioning properly. He basically recommended that it be replaced and have an aeration system added to it.
We submitted this report to the seller and asked that it be repaired before closing. They came back and told us that they sought a second opinion, one that told them that the system was just fine. I have attached one of the included photos from our report to this post, and have uploaded the video they took to Imgur for your viewing. Their written report is also below.
Any thoughts, opinions, advice or really any kind of input would be appreciated. We're unfortunately way too late in the negotiation period to get a third opinion scheduled and in.
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"The private sewage disposal system currently serving *address redacted* consists of an approximately 1,500-gallon septic tank with an undetermined amount of subsurface lateral field piping. The septic tank is located on the north side of the residence, approximately 14 feet from the foundation, aligned with the corner of the home.
During the inspection, a 20-inch green access lid was observed over the inlet side of the septic tank. After removing the securing screws and accessing the tank, the concrete access lid was found to be cracked and damaged. Sewage was observed on top of the lid and along the sides of the riser sleeve, indicating the lid and/or access area is not properly sealed. The cracked concrete access lid requires repair or replacement to restore proper access and prevent potential safety and sanitary concerns.
No access riser was observed over the outlet/discharge side of the septic tank. The discharge side of the tank was excavated and found to be approximately 6 to 8 inches below grade. After removing the access lid, the precast outlet baffle was observed to be severely deteriorated/eroded. Raw solid sewage was visible covering the outlet pipe leading to the lateral field. The deteriorated outlet baffle requires repair or replacement to ensure proper separation of solids and to protect the downstream lateral field from additional solids entering the system.
A sewer camera inspection was performed to evaluate the condition of the inlet sewer line. During the inspection, evidence was observed indicating that sewage has, at times during normal operation, completely surrounded the inlet pipe. Additionally, the presence of sewage above the inlet-side tank lid indicates that the lateral field has experienced periods where it was unable to accept effluent at the rate being introduced.
Based on the conditions observed during the inspection, the existing subsurface lateral system appears to be experiencing difficulty handling the current wastewater flow demands. While the system was operational at the time of inspection, the future performance and ability of the system to adequately serve additional demands from a new homeowner cannot be confirmed.
It is recommended that the cracked inlet access lid and deteriorated outlet baffle be repaired prior to continued use. Additionally, due to observed signs of hydraulic stress on the system, the current owner should consider further evaluation of the existing lateral field and potential replacement of the lateral system or installation of a new treatment unit designed to meet the anticipated wastewater demands of the property."
This hole for our septic has over flown several times (picture 3 and 4 is an active overflow. Picture 1 or 2 is after.)
I just don't feel like this is sanitary. Also, the grey thing is our furnace. I feel like these two things should not be next to each other. How bad is this?
How do you guys who have septic tanks go about Cleaning paintbrushes particularly when using oil based paints?
Where and what types of hooks do you purchase to remove the effluent filter for cleaning. I purchased one from Home Depot but the hook part was too large and it couldn’t get under the handle of the filter.
Ok, so I don't know jack about septic tanks. I moved into my house 3 years ago which has a Hoot Aerobic System. I haven't heard the sprinklers go off in the last few days. When I do the pump test switch, only a little water sprays from one of the sprinklers. When I check the remaining sprinklers, they are wet so there is very little water coming out. The septic guy came out and replaced a few of the sprinkler heads earlier this year so I'm not sure what's going on. The system was installed 20 years ago. I lived here when I was in high school and I remember back then that the sprinklers would spray pretty far, like 10+ feet. So what exactly is going on?
We just had an Oscar system installed in king co wa. There are 6 tank holes plus the drainfield. I assume we will put grass over the drainfield, but how do you discreetly hide the tank covers while still allowing access?
Would also love to hear any experiences maintaining an Oscar system. Given how much we spent on it I'm hoping it doesn't give us any problems for a long time.
I am on septic. My toilets wont flush, and they back up into the tubs. Sinks drain fine. Tank is empty, just had them pumped. Im thinking, based on research, I have a clog closer to the inlet baffle. Opening my clean out, its full of liquid and we've hosed out the pipes into the house. Water will flow if the cleanout is open. Can anyone advise how to fix by myself? I cannot afford another plumber or septic service. Tyia!
Should I remove the tree in the first photo due to it being close to septic tank? Septic tank lids are by first tree and septic hill is approx 30’ to the side.
Hey all.. Hoping to get some advice here. About a year ago we moved into our place and the septic tank outlet baffle was broken. The first week I repaired it and installed a filter. Ended up covering up the tank the original way with dirt. This has become a pain to clean so I decided to install risers. My tank top is about 18 inches from the level of the ground. I bought tuf tite risers as that's all that was available around me unless I wanted to spend double the price to order some in. The tank adapter has been sealed to the top with butyl tape and polyurethane in between the riser sections. My question is since I've removed the dirt will I have any freezing issues in the winter? We average around -15c and can get down to - 30 to - 40. Also will I have any freezing issues ripping the riser off the tank? Any recommendations on my install to alleviate issues in the future? Should I pour concrete around the adapter ring or insulate it some how?
Also can I just put dirt back around or do I need gravel?
Thanks in advance!!
I’m noticing that every time I see a diagram of a sump pump basin, most have drains In them for groundwater ect. Ours is just a concrete basin with no pipe or anything. We just a have a sump pump that empties the water through a pvc pipe that’s hooked to our main drain line. Is this normal?
I got my septic tank pumped out a few weeks ago and noticed the water level seems kind of high. Is this normal?
When I built my house they (designer) just wanted to know the number of bedrooms.
Now I'm adding a one bathroom guest house with its own septic, using the same company for the design, and now they are asking for a plumbing plan?
Who do I even go to to get a plumbing plan and why is this even needed?
We are under contract, and the septic inspection found a broken pipe between the septic tank and the leach field. We requested, among other things, that the seller replace the pipe and we get it reinspected to ensure the leach field is also in ok shape. They agreed, and we found out today they the seller is digging up the pipe themselves, but according to the seller’s realtor they are having someone else replace the pipe and bury it again.
The pipe runs under the gravel driveway between the tank and leach field, and was almost definitely broken in the first place because of settling/improper burial. We requested that the seller have the pipe replaced by a professional, but it is unclear if that is happening. Would you push harder for information about who is doing the work or photos of the excavation being backfilled and compacted?
If this pipe breaks in the future, do we have any way of holding the seller accountable for doing an improper job?
I have looked into my state regulations about septic design requirements and I believe this pipe constitutes a minor repair, so does not need to be signed off by a PE.
Current parking area is gravel for cars. Picture shows blue circle bottom right is drain field. Yellow line to house is outlet pipe. Considering expanding parking with gravel/dirt parking (permeable access if need be) over piping (yellow lines) Can this be done and is it ok to even do? Obviously drain field area will not have parking.