u/RealExiite

Image 1 — Most common reasons for freezing up?
Image 2 — Most common reasons for freezing up?

Most common reasons for freezing up?

I am relatively new to refrigeration, I was a residential HVAC tech and decided I wanted to get into Commercial HVAC and Refrigeration because I was getting tired of the salesy world of resi HVAC. So I am very good at diagnosing refrigerant issues with residential equipment and RTUs because I am used to those pressures and basic rules. I work in restaurants primarily.

But I am new to the refrigeration side of things so I have some things I’m confused on. I work with guys who I honestly think don’t know as much as they should by now. They all have different opinions on things, and some of them don’t know what superheat or subcooling even is, and they don’t use saturation temps in their diagnosing. They go by pressures only, and some of them don’t understand that if a box is hot the suction side will be higher because of the heat load sucking into the evaporator.

How do I know if a system is truly low on refrigerant? I usually go off of my saturation temps and compare the air temperature that is moving through my coils, as well as using the sight glass to make sure that my metering device is being fed liquid. It’s my understanding (I might be wrong) that our vapor saturation should stay somewhere between 10-20 degrees Lower than the air moving into the evaporator to keep the air getting colder and colder. And our liquid saturation should stay 15-25 hotter than the outside air moving into the condenser coil. I also know that the best place to check superheat is right at the coil, and I usually look up what each evaporators recommended superheat is by the manufacturer.

I’ve had evaporators that freeze up like the one in the picture multiple times, but when I check pressures and sight glass and superheat, everything will look great. And the drain is draining correctly. I usually then I always look at things like door gaskets and humidity intrusion factors and the only answer I can come up with is “maybe there opening the door to much” but that makes me feel like I’m guessing and not a good tech. I just want help and opinions on the best way to diagnose freezing walk in evaporator, and even reach in evaporators that use 448 or 404 or 22. I’ve even added defrost clocks to some of these coolers with 4 defrosts a day and they still freeze up 3 weeks later. But when I thaw them and run them again everything looks normal and they meet temp really quickly and pump down like they should.

If anyone could give a new restaurant refrigeration tech some tips that would be greatly appreciated, because one day I might go into bigger refrigeration and I want to know these rules before making a bigger leap in the future.

u/RealExiite — 11 days ago
▲ 26 r/HVAC

No rain vs Rain pressures

Was checking pressures, and a thunderstorm came over me, so I went inside and kept my pressures up on my field piece app and watched them. As as it stormed it dropped from like 97ish to like 89-90ish outside in like 15 min. It’s crazy how much the liquid side changed in that short amount of time because of temp drop and water hitting the coil. This system is a little overcharged before I got to it though.

u/RealExiite — 3 months ago
▲ 11 r/HVAC

Menace squirrel

I was at this building today replacing thermostat wire for some outdoor units because a squirrel has been nesting in all the line hide and chewing the stat wire in half. Cleaned all the squirrels nests and patched the entrances to the line hide and fixed the low voltage and never seen the squirrel til I was about to leave he showed up mad that I patched his houses.

u/RealExiite — 4 months ago
▲ 6 r/HVAC

Turbo Torch Head Size Question

I recently switched to commercial HVAC from residential. I’ve always been a b tank turbo torch guy. Never really liked oxy acetylene. Anyway I’ve always used the a8 size for most residential brazing, but now I work on walk ins and reach in refrigeration with smaller pipes. I was looking to get a smaller torch head for my set up. I think the a3 or a5 look adequate but does anyone have any experience with those sizes or have opinions? Also don’t hate on me for using b tank I was taught by old timers and that’s what they used so that’s what I use now.

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u/RealExiite — 5 months ago
▲ 38 r/HVAC

Ive heard so many different opinions on the correct way to charge a fully recovered fully vacuumed system. Some guys say all liquid. Some guys say all through the vapor side. My old supervisor who trained me at my first job always said he weighed everything into the vapor side. I’ve had other coworkers say they weigh it in into the liquid side. My teacher in HVAC school back in the day said to do both. The liquid guys are worried about flooding the compressor. The suction guys are worried about flooding the metering device. Can someone please tell me the 100% correct way so I’m doing the correct thing. I usually take my old teachers advice and put like 50-60% through the liquid and then like 20% through the vapor side. And then start the system and meter the rest in. What’s the real answer? I’ve never had a more contested question when asking different techs.

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u/RealExiite — 5 months ago
▲ 5 r/HVAC

I did residential for 2 years, got bored and went into restaurant commercial starting last week. Me and the guy that’s training me have came up on a few walk in freezers and coolers on service calls. And I’m starting the understand the basics of pump downs and fan delays and defrost clocks and stuff. But one thing that confuses me is, how is full vapor making it back to the compressor with such a low heat load across the evaporator coil? Wouldn’t that make the refrigerant not boil off completely and get some liquid into the compressor. I know in residential heat pumps, we have accumulators for this kind of thing. But the refrigeration units we’ve looked at don’t have them. Is there any major tips you guys can give me for being new into walk in refrigeration?

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u/RealExiite — 6 months ago