FRT Tuning – The Barebones Basics Bart Hansen – Brownells Guntech I

FRT’s are the new hotness in the AR-15 world, and honestly, I’m all aboard the hype train myself. I currently have an AS Designs ARC Fire trigger and all the parts I need for a new build, but the weather is currently raining on my parade as it were, literally, and I have to hold off a little bit until painting becomes a viable option again. Aluma-Hyde II does not dry well in high humidity conditions, but that’s a different article.

In this article, we’re talking about the most basic setups necessary to run an FRT or FRS in full fun mode.

  1. Bolt bounce
    what I’ve seen most guys and gals do is simply install their FRT or FRS and try to run it without any modifications beyond the install of said component. When put into full fun mode, the rifle proceeds to do a single shot, then click. Usually, upon inspection of the live round in the chamber after it has been manually extracted, a light primer strike can be seen. This is typically due to bolt bounce. In full fun mode, your BCG gets to moving a little too fast to be used with the current weight system typically used in most bog standard AR-15’s, which is a carbine length spring and buffer. On the return stroke, the weight being too light allows the bolt to close, and then open. Even if it is just a small fraction of an opening, this is still an out of battery attempt to fire a round, hence the light primer strike. There are two simple ways to correct this issue.

1A. H-2 or H-3 Buffers.
If you are running a carbine length stock system, simply swap your buffer out with an H-2 or H-3 Buffer (Brownell’s Item Numbers 078000339 and 078000340 respectively). The added weight stops the bolt from bouncing out of battery. If you’re running a rifle length fixed stock, the next option is for you, but I’d be surprised if you need it, as a standard rifle length buffer comes in at roughly 5.1oz, and the H-3 weight is somewhere in the neighborhood of 5.4oz.

https://preview.redd.it/5pggnhn0vdkh1.png?width=245&format=png&auto=webp&s=6369d4485e5ac3c3fb751b68c6000be1773ae7bf

2A. Dead-Blow Carriers.
These are BCG’s with a weight in the tail end that has a sight amount of movement. When the bolt closes, that weight slams forward, preventing the bounce before it can happen with a dead blow. Because of this, you don’t need to run an H-2 or H-3 buffer. Standard carbine weights work with this type of carrier. Personally, I went with the KAK Industries DBC BCG, as they have a down venting option that pushes the gas down into your magazine well and trigger pocket. It won’t stop all the gas from blowing in your face, but if you’ve ever shot a suppressed gun rapid fire, you know that cloud absolutely sucks to try and breathe through. Any little bit helps.

https://preview.redd.it/t5h78wx5vdkh1.png?width=1400&format=png&auto=webp&s=63973141557c949b8a630803240b6fe4662d1100

  1. Cash, Gas, or Brass, no one rides for free.
    A lot of AR-15s you buy off the shelf these days come either woefully under-gassed, or massively over-gassed. This problem presents itself in one of two ways. Either your BCG does not make the full length of travel necessary to cycle the weapon, in which case you will see feeding issues, or, you end up eating a giant cloud of gas. The easiest way to deal with both issues is two-fold. First, buy an adjustable gas block. Second, suppress your AR. Increasing the back pressure in your system, then taming it with an adjustable gas block is just one way to deal with the issue of proper gassing. If you are under-gassed, but don’t want to suppress your AR, first, who hurt you? Second, you can take your barrel in to a local, qualified gunsmith, and have them drill your gas port up to the next size, then install an adjustable gas block. If you are not a gunsmith, we do not recommend you try to drill your gas port yourself.

https://preview.redd.it/al7e7drbvdkh1.png?width=421&format=png&auto=webp&s=03cdfbc8168156a6f7575450f362ddd14fc75303

In closing, these are just the barebones of tuning for an FRT. There may be some more in depth things you need to do depending on your build, and unfortunately, you will need to go through the process of trial and error until you find that perfect sweet spot please check with your specific manufacturer for more details for your specific FRT. We can still help in those situations. Just give the Tech Line a call at 800-741-0015, and hit option 2.

Working on my Rambo impersonation,

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 17 hours ago
▲ 1 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

Thinking about Getting a Suppressor or Two By Justin Prior Brownells Guntech I

https://preview.redd.it/zx7llwni5yjh1.png?width=975&format=png&auto=webp&s=87b5e5ed2fa2df519050111d82d5a25be07a586a

With all the changes we have been seeing with the NFA tax stamps, and now the ATF may getting rid of the NFA Title/tax stamp for Silencers, SBRs, and SBS’s. I think I have waited long enough to get a couple of silencers for my firearms. I have two AR platform rifles; one is 5.56 NATO, and the other is 9mm blowback. My question for all of you is what brand and model should I go with and why? Tell me about some of your experiences? Have you had any issues with any of the silencers you have and how did the company respond?

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 3 days ago
▲ 5 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

how to build a loyal Customer By Red Bingham Sr. Guntech

https://preview.redd.it/jpywl45cndjh1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18480e684adf769acfdeecc744452e4c923c1792

As I'm sure those of you who follow Brownells know I shoot competition, I shoot for the Brownells shoot team, call the Pewnicorns( my suggestion of "Pete's angels" was shot down unanimously and immediately.). We meet on Saturday mornings at Big springs shooting Complex and practice to be less terrible. If you are near by come on by and see us, its open shoot on Saturdays. This past Saturday, at Caleb's urging, we were practicing shooting in several, advanced, stressed, Yoga poses up against a multi slot barricade while he stood back and watched us and enjoyed a cigar.

he said the noises he was making to to help us learn to focus under stress.

In one of these poses I was on my belly on the ground and my scope was past 45 deg. down and against the dirt and repeatedly struck against the barricade, which as we all know scopes LOVE. My scope succumb after 5 years of heavy use to its injury's and I went from being a stud to a dud in the space of 2 shots. "Never fear" thought I , for I am a VORTEX man. I called them on monday from my private phone, didn't pull the " DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM"- Cave Johnson routine as a new minted Brownells Sr. Guntech, just john Q consumer with a busted scope, explained who I was and what was up,

They said " No problem Mr. Bingham we get you a label out right now, we will get your scope in and turn it around ASAP."

I asked "about how long?"

They said "about 2 weeks."

I said "That's alittle close I have Gun Fighter Gauntlet (Shoutout to Joe K. see you there!) in 3 Weeks!!!"

They said " No Problem we will send you a replacement, just pinky promise you will send the broken one back in",

I might be embellishing the pinky promise part. but that's how easy it was. I received my optic 3 days later with a free hat to boot! I have 4 vortex optics soon to be 5 because that Defender ST is DEFINATELY going on that fusion XP I wrote about last time. Vortex has a customer for life in me and if anyone in the Hamilton Family ever needs a place to lay low from the Feds they have a safe place in Iowa.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 6 days ago

A few, light, modifications... By Red Bingham Sr. Guntech

gonna call her lucille

I find myself like many of you I'm sure in a summer of love with my new pistol, a couple months ago I picked up a Fusion XP pro with a threaded barrel. The materials and finish spec list was INSANE, Built entirely from precision CNC-machined bar stock components with no metal injection molding (MIM) parts (except for the checkered polycarbonate magazine catch because Glock mags) including the mainframe and a 7075T6 grip frame. Ihe internal components are standard 1911 parts for the most part including the standard .700 OD Clark/para bull barrel. The only different parts that I can see are the magazine lath(because it takes cheap, available, reliable Glock mags) and the trigger for the same reason. Is it the lightest gun in the room? no. It is not a teacup, it is a beer stein and looking at the specs, one my grandkids grandkids will use to fight off future communists or alien invaders or the Borg which is mix of the 2.

That being said, I'm a Gunsmith and Brownells Guntech, I cannot help but tinker with things, its a compulsion, I am incapable of leaving well enough alone. So I have decided to make my fusion my new primary "race" gun. I started with a toolless takedown guide rod because no way am I remember to bring or not loosing the takedown tool for the factory guide rod from Fusion themselves as well as an extended magazine release so I can do cool Tomasie style fast mag drops. Then onto a underworld arms 2 port "minotaur" comp that I stoned in to final fit, I had to stone the guide rod face just a bit too because it was little proud, there is now .001 gap between the slide face and comp face, it looks clean, I may later go in and do some contouring for aesthetics later because the comp is "technically" for a staccato and my slide is alittle wider and tri topped. I also got a couple recoil springs for tunning purposes more to come on that after this weekend of pewnicorns practice. Finally because my holster is a Blackhawk omnivore and retains off the light not the pistol I ordered a new tlr-1 AND A new(to me at least, they could have been out for years?) gas peddle that attaches to the light made by Tactical force USA. It's a great, inexpensive addon, if you have never shot with a gas pedal it is a game changer, they also have them for tlr-7 series and the Surefire X300 series.

(Disclaimer: I'm not being paid by or given free parts by any of these companies(which is a shame because I am VERY susceptible to bribery) Besides Brownells who pays me and graciously gives me the freedom to write about anything I want in the firearms sphere with very few restrictions, we don't even sell most of these parts besides the pistol itself and the light.

https://www.brownells.com/guns/handguns/semi-auto-handguns/xp-pro-9mm-luger-semi-auto-handgun-chrome/?sku=430116399

https://fusionfirearms.com/1911-tool-less-guide-rod-4-fits-xp-pro-4-1911-pistols

https://fusionfirearms.com/xp-pro-extended-button-magazine-catch-xp-82

https://www.brownells.com/gear/tactical-gear/flashlights-accessories/tlr-1-weapon-light/?sku=100003009

https://underworldarms.com/products/staccato-p-c2-xl-thread-on-minotaur-compensator?variant=47037786423463

https://tacticalforceusa.com/streamlight-tlr1-gas-pedal-thumb-ledge-wing-hl-hp-tl2/

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 14 days ago
▲ 3 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

Some refinishing options to consider By Chris Bartee Brownells Guntech

Have you ever thought about refinishing your dad’s or grandfather’s shotgun or rifle? There are plenty of choices for a perfect finish. The options for doing a barrel and/or a receiver are rust blue, hot blue, manganese or zinc Parkerizing, Cerakote, Gun Kote (Brownells Gun Kote or KG products), and lastly color-case hardening and many more. while The options for the stock and other wood furniture could be tru-oil, Chem-pak gun Sav’r hunter satin aerosol or Chem-pak pro-custom oil, boiled linseed oil, R. GALE LOCK CO. - GUN STOCK STAIN.

With the rust blue or brown, it will give you a deep blue or a coffee brown color.

https://preview.redd.it/52woqwm5u6fh1.png?width=2988&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d52e7b2214edab41eaba206cd1d7bb3908f9b29

With Parkerizing you will get two colors, either a dark gray color with the manganese or a light gray color with the zinc solution.

https://preview.redd.it/61zg6wz9u6fh1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=82e77a48ec47197d3ffd1b8a664e714e72703ae2

Cerakote and Gun Kote finishes will have any color that you can think of with many different shades.

https://preview.redd.it/s74nvbliu6fh1.png?width=456&format=png&auto=webp&s=a01a8301edff92a6d49b4f60eca9deea719b82f8

Color-case hardening uses bone and wood charcoal with harden steel and as bi product impart color depending on what trace elements get trapped in the steel matrix.

https://preview.redd.it/1sdllx9zt6fh1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=d401b8ed9f895c9b6d03fb98be1cd117f3f8e0d7

 

When it comes to finishing your stocks and forearms you can do almost anything, but I prefer using the Gun Sav’r Hunter Satin finish. With it being an aerosol, it provides a cleaner looking finish. It gives you a rich golden-brown color with a satin to matte finish.

https://preview.redd.it/jy7g58wnu6fh1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2363c11e3c236c356d1f6876134a05207693c14

If you use tru-oil it will give a true oiled and hand rubbed finish. Depending on how many coats of tru-oil that you use, it will give you different finish colors. From a nice golden color to a deep tea color.

the tru oil method shows the most individual wood characer.

Boiled linseed oil gives you a hand oil finish, but linseed oil takes a while to dry, 24-84 hours to dry.

https://preview.redd.it/fsj94dbzu6fh1.png?width=1137&format=png&auto=webp&s=873e8398801344211dfd33fa3eb10cd060223fa7

The R. Gale Lock stain comes in a variety of colors from Dark Walnut -very dark, great on birch and maple military stocks. Early American - a medium dark walnut with red highlights. Use for touch-up and refinishing. 1776 Antique - red/yellow highlights. Gives curly maple an antique look. Good for pre-'64 Winchester. 1787 Golden -** gold/yellow brown highlights. Enhances the beauty of walnut and curly maple*.* 1864 English - with soft brown/yellow tones, lighter than Golden*.* 1884 Black - dark chocolate brown with yellow highlights. Has less
black than Dark Walnut.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 27 days ago
▲ 1 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

What the floc? By Red Bingham Sr. Guntech.

Just A picture of Brownell's Acraglas floc...

I had a call today asking about the "floc" included in our amazing Brownells Acraglas, it is mentioned in the very front of the instruction manual...and then never again in the entire manual, a bit of an oversight on our part. Red to the rescue with a brief description of use, its is primarily a thickener that can be added in varying amounts to build up a void or a low spot and it has the added benefit of strengthening the bond of the Brownells Acraglas in the same way that fiberglass works by tangling higher tensile strength strands of fiber and then epoxying them together it makes a hardy bond that can be maneuvered into position and still be sanded and shaped to size for a perfect fit.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 1 month ago
▲ 3 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

Pick your own adventure by Red Bingham Sr. Guntech

I, sometime back was given an Apache 9800 case by a friend what had moved on to bigger and better things. so I desided to set it up as my competition case, it had ample room my pistol(Glock 34 with Holosun 508T gen1), my 18" spr with scope and my Komrad12 12ga saige "firearm"(as we all give each other a sly, knowing smile) as well as mags for each. I used the provided pluck and pull foam but with everything in the case some areas were alittle thin and tended to break out. I did some research into this to see how other shooters where solving this issue and found that some were using liquid rubber hole sealer, great idea I thought! so I ordered some up and was off to the races it worked great, until the with got hot.... for those of you who don't know or understand the great state of Iowa, We have 6 seasons, Fall for 2 weeks, Winter for 2 months, Deep Winter for 3 months, spring for 2 weeks, tornados, and summers that remind me both in heat and humitity to my home state North Carolina. it was in this heat I found the fatal error in my plan. the liqiud rubber, reliquified in this heat and made a sticky mess of all of my gear.

Take that mongolians

an alternate solution had to be found. enter Eyelar Ragar foam, A pluckable, reconfigurable series of geometric repeating self locking shapes solution perfect for the train enthuaist in your life! they come in a number of common sizes and if youre handy with a razor you could make them fit just about anything, luckily they had one that was preconfigured to my size of case and inbetween calls and chats with you fine folks, I was able to fit it to my case, and make room for my 18" spr, my Glcok 34 with optic and my gen 1 matador mat9 (brn9) all with spare magazines to accompany. I even have alittle bit of room left for skittles storage should it become necessary.

https://preview.redd.it/iegmwiexpvah1.png?width=1247&format=png&auto=webp&s=3faa673eada3a3e7c0db1b640819da46df725647

I could fit slightly more if I removes the "fingers" sticking out but then it would be more uni purpose, which I may do in the future because it is very inexpensive, I could have a couple different presets for diffent uses but for now this is very satifactory.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 2 months ago

Gunsmith! use "hydro dip!" - Justin Prior, Brownells Guntech

Hello again, your friendly neighborhood Gunsmith here to help you be the very best noone ever was! I wanted to show you my newest project, which I just completed. I hydro-dipped the hand guard, pistol grip, and collapsible stock.

Let me explain the process for those of you who might be interested in hydro-dipping. The first step is to remove the parts you want to dip, then clean them acetone or denatured alcohol, making sure there is no oil, grease, dirt, or debris on them. The next step is to plug or tape off areas of the part, like screw holes, pin holes that may get paint and cause fitting issues later when putting the parts back on the gun. For screw holes, I use moldable earplugs. That way, it does not leave any debris, as clay would. Tape off internal areas that have moving parts using painters' tape or masking tape.

The next step would be to add a base coat of paint. So, you can use any aerosol paint (Rattle Can).  When choosing the color of paint, you want to make sure you choose a color that can make your hydro dipping film stand out or “pop” when it is applied to your gun part. Make sure when applying the paint that you keep the can about 8- 10 inches away from the part as you spray, giving the part an even coat. The best way I found to do this is to spray the areas of the part that are hard to reach. Like the sides of a Picatinny rail. Do not try to paint the part all in one pass with the spray paint. Do a light pass with the paint, let it dry, then do another pass and dry. Do this until your part is completely covered.

Next, it's time to get ready for the dipping process. You can use a Rubbermaid storage tub, or, as you have seen in my previous article, I showed you how to build a DIY hydro-dipping tank. Fill the tank or Rubbermaid storage container with 80 degree 90-degree water. Then you cut the film twice the size of the part you are dipping. Before you lay the film on top of the water, you need to make sure which side of the film needs to face up. The best way to do this is to wet your index fingertip and the tip of your thumb and pinch the corner of the film for a few seconds. Whichever finger the film sticks to is the side of the film you want to face up on the water.

Have the part you are dipping readily nearby the container you are using to dip. Lay the film with the sticky side up. You will notice that you will see bubbles caught between the film and the water. You can push them out before the film expands. Use the activator that comes with the film. Most companies offer the activator when you purchase the film. I recommend using that company's activator. Again, keeping the spray-on activator 8-10 inches away from the film, spray the film until you see a glassy appearance. Then slowly dip the part you want, allowing the film to wrap around the part and adhere to it. Once the part is submerged in the water, shake the part while it is under that way you break up the film on top, and it will also remove any film that may be loosely attached.

Finally, after dipping, rinse the part under soft (slow) running water until the access film comes off. Allow the part to dry. Then you will want to spray 2-3 coats of clear coat paint to protect the work you have done. Once that is dry, you can reassemble the part to the firearm.  This can be a technical process, but once you get the hang of it, it is a fun project.  Give hydro-dipping a try, let me know if you like it. Send us pictures of your project!

https://preview.redd.it/3wf22r5eeo7h1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9191275d30b01c673227918ea539876880140040

https://preview.redd.it/wxtirdvfeo7h1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60ce3279c629c7505a16b75c7876784d6abb16e0

Justin Prior, Brownells Guntech

u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 2 months ago

Speed, Violence, and Sensible foot ware. Red Bingham Sr. tech

Competition shooting season is fast approaching here in Iowa, and already upon most of my kin in the southern states. I personally am gearing up and readying for the Action hero experience and the Gunfighter Gauntlet to name a few this year, I thought I'd write a quickie about an important and often overlooked subject, shoes..

In my 20 year shooting career the zeitgeist of foot ware and shooting has changed about 3 times, from sneakers which were light but had no grip on...basically anything that wasn't paved and dry, or combat boots which offered grip and durability but weighed a ton, to light lowcut "trail" boots a compromise on the heavier duty side of things, to trail runners which is where the trend sits now, lightweight, lightly reinforced shoes with highly aggressive. outer sole's and wider "toe boxes" to aid in direction change and mobility.

https://preview.redd.it/k0z80sqzvi6h1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=2a531082d81acf70a0c7aec34fe5bbca4f44afc3

there are a couple notable brands, Hoka, Salomon, Altra, and a few others but for my money you cannot beat New balances, affordable, well built, light and grippy enough to stop on a dime rather than go a$$ over tea kettle or sliding into home and the best part is they come in a 4E wide version for those of us Clydesdales with a big hoof. My most recent pair are the 410v9 in black and "hi viz" orange but come in a wide range of colors, I picked up on sale for a "Staggering" 60 dollars. leaving me money for the important things Red meat and more 9mm.

clodhopper in question.

This is my third pair total, they tend to last about 2 years with heavy use, much longer if you make them a devoted range item and then when you're done they become handy yard mowing shoes, and if you get the white ones you can work on your 4th gen corvette and yell in the comments section of AI video about millennial eating avocado toast or whatever you're into, the possibilities are limitless. I will also add that it is worth braking them in some before your first shoot so that things relax and form to your foot.

https://preview.redd.it/nw70uhiywi6h1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=5ced944c59c0bd18cb762557b65d430a48648cf9

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 2 months ago
▲ 2 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

Fusion XP pro(and platypus I assume) slide/frame Vs. standard double stack 2011. by Red Bingham Sr. Guntech

Just a quick article in-between several project(more to come), BUT, I recently bought A " fusion Firearms, XP pro, threaded and in hard chromed because it will last forever and I'm alittle gaudy. it is SO CHEAP and SOOO GOOD, I'm not here to brag on it, I recommend you look into it, tennifer, tool steel internals, it's an absolute unit for the cost. I got the 4inch version(I would have liked a 5 inch gun but they don't make one yet, I got a threaded barrel so its close enough.)

The reason I'm here is to show the slide/frame width, because of the feed lip length area of the Glock magazines the width of the frame rail external and slide rail internal dimension for the fusion XP pro is .870, and a standard 1911/2011(mine is a para clone not a standard 2011 but same difference) is .755. not no interchanging twixt the 2. the other internals are standard 19/2011 stuff.

have have provided some visuals below:

https://preview.redd.it/iov9udag9b2h1.png?width=1663&format=png&auto=webp&s=c2d9884e1e2326f04deb54764b6341af9cb5ab8d

https://preview.redd.it/3zjxoknh9b2h1.png?width=1663&format=png&auto=webp&s=98c69194af532505d849bd942145e0de1119402f

https://preview.redd.it/oplp6dhldb2h1.jpg?width=1663&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d4e49ae918939de4b6351d6b4bcd398399b61e3

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 3 months ago
▲ 2 r/brownellsinc+1 crossposts

Does anyone have of one the fusion XP pro's? they seem incredibly feature rich for the money steel frame, alum grip frame, nickel and TENNIFER, Barstock internals so I can work my Gunsmith voodoo on them, and it takes Glock mags, which i have a TON of and don't cost 80+ bucks a mag. I have done a bunch of research with the available information and know that there are some grip texture complaints and the factory mags "have been found wanting" but I would really like to hear from anyone that has one.

https://preview.redd.it/9wit1hyrvxzg1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=546aa6525c4644e745edc3da766944880fbc85ef

checkout these stat's, she seems stacked, a real Lucille situation

https://preview.redd.it/s1zzcqjp1yzg1.png?width=318&format=png&auto=webp&s=109650410f6a5c4158c95b1ea310c58804b5473c

  • Platform: 1911-based double stack
  • Caliber: 9MM
  • Magazine Compatibility: Glock® 17 magazines
  • Construction: All bar stock materials, precision CNC machined
  • Magazine Catch: Checkered Polycarbonate
  • Slide: 4" Commander  Tri-topped, pro cocking serrations, and front vent cuts
  • Sights:
    • Standard Novak® compatible front and rear combat sights
    • Rear sight mounted on a removable plate for RMR red dot sights
    • RMR plate included for RMR/SRO red dot sights
  • Trigger: One-piece steel milled trigger made from bar stock
  • Barrel: 4" 1911 Clark/Para ramped bull barrel, chambered in 9mm
  • Recoil Assembly: One-piece full-length guide rod
  • Thumb Safety: Ambidextrous thumb safety
  • Frame: Steel with tactical rail for Picatinny accessories
  • Grip: Aluminum with chainlink pattern checkered front strap, and removable magwell
  • Slide Stop: Wide paddle pro slide stop
  • Finish: Tennifer® with chrome overcoat
  • Patent Pending Design

I'm going to leave this up over the weekend and check it one Monday and if by the end of Monday, no information is available, or the information that is available is overall positive, I'm going to buy the ticket and take the ride as one of my favorite writers once said.

Red Bingham Sr. Guntech

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 3 months ago

We get asked a lot of questions in regards to firearm maintenance. With polymer and plastic being a mainstay in the firearms world now, one of the more specific questions we get is, “Will this solvent/oil damage the plastic?”

Honestly, it’s a decent question. Who doesn’t want to protect their investment and ensure the tool they’re trusting their life to won’t break under use due to chemical erosion? With that in mind, I went around and bugged a few of the other Techs here for their cleaning solvents and oils that they keep at their desks, and grabbed my office Nerf gun to do a little testing.

https://preview.redd.it/1ojsuljbdczg1.png?width=731&format=png&auto=webp&s=0fa4db2e2a7a7c444ccf25391c54577934833130

In order to do a proper test, I’ve applied these five products to different the Nerf gun, and will let them sit for a week before giving it a once over to see if anything has changed. The products in question are Rem-Oil, Break-free CLP, Hoppe’s No.9 Bore Solvent, G96 Complete Gun Treatment, and Lucas Oil Products Extreme Duty CLP.

This is obviously not an all encompassing list of all the products available on the market, however. So, how can you tell for yourself?

  1. Read the instructions on the product in question.
    Hoppe’s Blast and Shine, for example, explicitly states that you should only use it on metal, and not on plastic. Such products should be avoided if the firearm in question has plastic furniture, or the frame is made of polymer. If you find you must use it anyway, disassemble the firearm so that only the metal pieces remain, and once done, ensure that none of the product remains before reassembly. Ensure that none of the product has made its way into any blind holes or crevice's to slowly leak out upon reassembly.

  2. Small tests work best.  
    Unfortunately, a lot of products out there don’t specify one way or the other if they’re plastic safe. In those instances, it’s worth it in the long run to check and see if the product in question is or is not plastic safe before trusting it. You don’t have to be as tongue in cheek as I am, using a Nerf gun and all that, but the reality is a $10.00 toy is cheaper than a $55.00 SCT frame, for example. I’m sure your wife won’t miss a piece of Tupperware either, if you’re brave enough. Apply the product in question to your test piece, and wait a week. If you notice any degradation of the material on your test piece, it’s a safe bet that it will do the same to your plastic on your gun. Its important to note here that different plastics may react differently to different solvents and chemicals.

  3. Ask around.
    Don't be afraid to contact the manufacturer for both the chemical and the firearms and ask if they have any advice or warning about certain products used in conjunction with their products. Everyone has their favorite solvent or oil that they will swear by….at least until the manufacturer decides to change the formula. All jokes aside, you’ll hear the praises of what works best for any given situation if you just ask around, and the horror stories of what doesn’t work as well. Worst case scenario, if you don’t have any friends, give us a call at 800-741-0015. We have over a hundred years of experience between all of us in the Gun Tech Department, and would be happy to help.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 4 months ago

Sources referenced for this article include Hatcher’s Notebook, by Julian S. Hatcher, and The Development of the French Defense Industry in the 20^(th) Century, by Martin Lundmark, and Laurent Giovachini for the Swedish Defense Research Agency.     

I’m afraid that for this article, we must undertake the horrific endeavor of discussing the French….’s firearm engineering and history.

From the 1300’s to today, France has been pivotal to the development of the modern firearm, much to the dismay of many. What started in 1333 with the country hoarding all the saltpeter that wasn’t nailed down, along with the worldwide phenomenon of fighting the British, and with war comes the necessity of invention.

what if, dear reader, I told you that along the way, a combination of paranoia, propaganda, and secrecy caused France to produce a machine gun that actually worked, and if used properly would have worked well, and somehow set the development of the modern machine gun back for years?

Before the Gatling Gun saw widespread adoption by most nations of the world, being introduced towards the end of our own Civil War, France found itself embroiled in the Franco-Prussian War. Rather than adopt the Gatling, the French decided to develop their own machine gun. The Mitrailleuse, so named for its rate of fire, and ammunition being likened to the popular anti-personnel cannon ammunition, grape shot, or mitraille, was described by Major General Julian S. Hatcher as, “25 rifle barrels fastened together in a parallel bundle and encased so as to resemble a field gun.”

It sounds silly, and looks the same to modern eyes, but back then, boasting a fire rate of 125 rounds per minute was amazing for the standards of the day. The simple cartridge design that allowed the Mitrailleur, or grape shooter, to reload all 25 barrels at once was, again, for its time, a great improvement to the cycle of operations regarding the reloading step. Operation was similarly made easy. A simple rotating handle released the firing pins one by one until all barrels were shot, and then the process would start over again.

All this begs the question; how did it fail so badly that the development of machine guns was halted for years if it was so impressive for its time? The answer to that is two-fold, with one reason feeding into the other.

To start, the Germans on the other side of the isle reacted much in the same way as they did to trench shotguns during WWII. The propaganda was entirely negative, as you would expect, and any Mitrailleuse spotted on the field became an immediate target, to be captured and/or destroyed.

The Germans propaganda was only fueled by the fact that the French government of the time kept the development of this weapon as secret as they could until it was deployed onto the field. This meant that while the Germans were putting out this propaganda, no Mitrailleur were drilled in it’s operation, no tactics were devised with the weapon at all, and it’s purpose on the field was left to guess work, which lead to it being used as an artillery piece as opposed to a machine gun, to extremely poor effect.

With the world watching this poor demonstration, and the Germans being vindicated through improper deployment of the weapon onto the field, machine guns fell out of favor with many militaries in the world, and development effectively stopped for years, leaving primarily the Gatling Gun with a long road of redemption ahead of it. This all came to an end, however, with the invention of the Maxim Machine Gun in 1884.

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u/Redd_BrownellsGT — 4 months ago