u/RestBrilliant3285

A few people asked to see more process work after the green leather jacket post, so I thought I’d share another custom project that was a lot more complicated behind the scenes.

The 3rd pic is the original reference the client sent me. The goal wasn’t to make a 1:1 copy, but to reinterpret some of the ideas into something more wearable and structurally realistic.

The whole thing took around half a month to make, plus another 8–10 days just waiting for materials and hardware to arrive.

When the client first sent over a huge folder of reference photos and ideas, honestly my first reaction was “this is going to be difficult.”
But at the same time, that’s also what made it exciting. I spent around five days just sketching ideas on paper, figuring out how to reinterpret everything into something actually wearable and structurally possible, while also searching for hardware and materials that could realistically be sourced.

Once we had a long phone call and agreed on the direction, I started ordering everything. Most of the parts came from different suppliers, so it took quite a while before all the pieces finally arrived.

After that came the pattern and construction stage. Even after deciding on all the materials, the technical side was still exhausting - especially sewing leather onto heavy 17oz fabric panels and trying to keep everything clean and balanced.

The metal badge on the chest was another challenge. It’s made from a copper alloy, so I had to build up multiple layers of leather underneath it before mounting it securely to the jacket. Even the circular stitch details around it had to be sewn very carefully to avoid ruining the shape.

The sleeve panels with the “47” and “DN” details were also incredibly time consuming. I had to trim and place each piece individually, counting stitches and adjusting spacing constantly. Thankfully the final color balance worked out exactly the way I imagined, which made the whole process worth it.
Each sleeve alone took almost half a day from measuring to final stitching - both sleeves together basically took an entire day of work.

Honestly, projects like this are exhausting, but also the reason I enjoy making custom jackets in the first place.

Since there is a limit to how much I can fit into 1 post, I can share Part 2 later if you guys are interested.

Finished this leather jacket recently and finally got some proper wear shots.

Kept the build pretty clean : full back, fewer seams, and tried not to overwork the leather so it can break in naturally.

Curious how this will age. Would you expect more creasing or a smoother break-in?

Thanks for all the interest in the progress post. Here are some finished photos after lining and final assembly, along with a few fit pics.

I wanted this one to feel straightforward and honest, with the material doing most of the talking. The build uses larger full-cut panels wherever possible - full back, uncut sleeves, and a cleaner overall flow without unnecessary seam breaks. Besides the visual aspect, it also gives the jacket a stronger and more substantial feel.

The edges were left rough-cut intentionally for a more natural character, and skiving was kept minimal so the leather could retain more of its body and substance. I like when a jacket still feels like leather, not something thinned down too much just for convenience.

The hide is a full-grain vegetable tanned cowhide with a waxed pull-up finish. It has that smell, firmness, and depth that veg tan people usually appreciate, and it should develop plenty of character with wear. Inside is a dense ramie/cotton canvas lining in an earthy red tone for durability and a bit of contrast.

Hardware is kept simple and solid: Universal YKK #10 zipper, brass buckles, and YKK rivets.

Still learning and refining with every piece, but I’m happy with how this one came together. Thanks again for following the process.

Anyone also loves a full-cut back?