We’re putting together the braking setup for our race Mustang S550, and it’s starting to look pretty serious.
This setup was designed and built in-house from scratch. The goal was simple: make it clean, solid, and reliable under hard use.
Still a few details left to finish, but this part of the build is definitely moving in the right direction.
Engine oil temperature is one of those things that’s easy to ignore on a classic Mustang - right up until the car starts being driven harder and the stock setup starts running out of margin.
That was the problem we were trying to solve here.
This is an oil cooler setup we developed for early Mustangs, built around the front section of the car so the cooler, brackets, and hose routing all work as one system instead of feeling like an afterthought.
The setup uses a 12-row cooler, AN10 lines, dedicated line guides, and an oil filter base with an 85°C thermostat, so the oil only goes through the cooler when it actually needs to.
A big part of the work here wasn’t just adding a cooler, but packaging the whole thing properly - mounting position, serviceability, hose routing, and making sure everything sits where it should.
On this setup, we’ve already seen oil temperature drop by up to around 30°C, which makes a very real difference on a car that actually gets used.
Cette fois, nous avons ajouté un radiateur d’huile moteur derrière la calandre avant. C’est le genre d’amélioration qui ne se remarque pas forcément de l’extérieur, mais qui a du sens quand la voiture est faite pour être utilisée un peu plus sérieusement qu’à l’origine.
La plus grosse partie du travail se joue dans les petits détails : trouver une position propre pour le montage, faire passer les durites correctement, garder assez de dégagement et s’assurer que l’ensemble reste discret une fois la calandre remise en place.
J’aime bien ce type de travail, parce qu’il ne s’agit pas vraiment de changer l’apparence de la voiture. C’est plutôt une manière de rendre le projet plus complet et plus prêt pour une vraie utilisation.
Quelques photos de l’installation ci-dessous.
Engine oil temperature is one of those things that’s easy to ignore on a classic Mustang - right up until the car starts being driven harder and the stock setup starts running out of margin.
That was the problem we were trying to solve here.
This is an oil cooler setup we developed for early Mustangs, built around the front section of the car so the cooler, brackets, and hose routing all work as one system instead of feeling like an afterthought.
The setup uses a 12-row cooler, AN10 lines, dedicated line guides, and an oil filter base with an 85°C thermostat, so the oil only goes through the cooler when it actually needs to.
A big part of the work here wasn’t just adding a cooler, but packaging the whole thing properly - mounting position, serviceability, hose routing, and making sure everything sits where it should.
On this setup, we’ve already seen oil temperature drop by up to around 30°C, which makes a very real difference on a car that actually gets used.
💥 ONLY NOW: -40%
☀️ The hot summer continues, and with it we’re launching a new hot promotion for classic Mustang fans.
If you own a 1964.5-1970 Ford Mustang and have been thinking about improving its handling, traction, and stability - now is the perfect time to take a serious step toward restomod performance.
We’ve prepared a special promotion on:
👉 Coilover / 4-link Rear Suspension RESTOMOTIVE X OHLINS
for 1964.5-1970 Ford Mustang
This setup is made for those who want to keep the classic character of the car, but get rid of the typical rear-end “floating” and the limitations of the factory suspension.
Instead of the old setup - modern geometry, adjustability, and much more control over the car.
The kit includes, among other things:
✅ Coilover / 4-link system
✅ Ohlins STX shock absorbers
✅ adjustable ride height
✅ geometry adjustment
✅ improved rear axle control
✅ better stability during dynamic driving
✅ a stronger, more precise driving feel
In practice, this means one thing:
🔥 your Mustang feels more stable
🔥 it transfers power to the road better
🔥 it gives you more control in corners
🔥 less body movement and less rear-end “floating”
🔥 it starts to feel like a true restomod build
And now the most important part:
⚠️ IMPORTANT: the -40% promotion applies only to the first 2 orders.
This is not just a discount on a regular part.
It’s an opportunity for a full rear suspension upgrade for your classic Mustang.
First come, first served.
Message us and check availability.
One of the Mustangs we’ve got in the shop recently got this rear suspension setup installed.
The stock rear layout has its limits once the car starts being used a bit harder, so this was the direction we went with here - a 4-link / coilover setup to get more control over how the rear of the car works.
Compared to the factory leaf spring setup, this gives a lot more room to adjust geometry and ride height, and a lot more control over how the rear axle behaves under load.
The setup uses a subframe, adjustable trailing and diagonal arms, reinforced uniball connections, and a few different mounting options for height and geometry. So instead of just bolting parts on and hoping for the best, there’s actually room to set the rear end up properly.
It’s a pretty big change compared to stock, but it gives you a lot more control over how the car behaves.
On continue doucement l’assemblage du projet.
Cette fois, on avance sur la suspension arrière - montage du 4-link, des coilovers et ajustement de toute la géométrie sous la voiture.
Il reste encore un peu de travail, mais l’arrière commence déjà à avoir une sacrée gueule. C’est toujours sympa de voir une Mustang classique recevoir une conduite plus moderne, sans perdre son caractère.
We’re slowly continuing the assembly of the project.
This time, we’re making progress on the rear suspension - installing the 4-link, the coilovers, and adjusting the full geometry underneath the car.
There’s still a bit of work left, but the rear end is already starting to look seriously badass. It’s always great to see a classic Mustang get more modern driving performance without losing its character.
One of the Mustangs we’ve got in the shop recently got this rear suspension setup installed.
The stock rear layout has its limits once the car starts being used a bit harder, so this was the direction we went with here - a 4-link / coilover setup to get more control over how the rear of the car works.
Compared to the factory leaf spring setup, this gives a lot more room to adjust geometry and ride height, and a lot more control over how the rear axle behaves under load.
The setup uses a subframe, adjustable trailing and diagonal arms, reinforced uniball connections, and a few different mounting options for height and geometry. So instead of just bolting parts on and hoping for the best, there’s actually room to set the rear end up properly.
It’s a pretty big change compared to stock, but it gives you a lot more control over how the car behaves.
Just a few work-in-progress shots from the shop.
The Mustang is still apart, but that’s the fun part - seeing everything come together piece by piece. Suspension, interior, engine bay… still some work ahead, but the build is starting to get its character.
Always love this stage of a project.
Petite mise à jour intérieure sur l’un de nos projets Mustang.
Nous avons installé ce support pour manomètres/accessoires à la place de l’emplacement de la radio d’origine. C’est une petite pièce, mais elle rend l’intérieur beaucoup plus fonctionnel.
L’idée était d’ajouter quelques manomètres et interrupteurs supplémentaires sans découper le tableau de bord ni donner à l’habitacle un aspect trop moderne. Nous avons conçu cette pièce nous-mêmes pour qu’elle s’intègre proprement dans l’intérieur d’une Mustang classique.
Elle est prévue pour des manomètres de 52 mm, avec un peu d’espace supplémentaire pour des interrupteurs si besoin. Rien de trop compliqué, juste une façon propre d’ajouter de la fonctionnalité tout en gardant l’ambiance old-school à l’intérieur de la voiture.
This is one of the smaller interior pieces we’ve been working on for a classic Mustang.
It’s an accessory gauge housing for 52 mm gauges, designed to sit under the console and add a few extra instruments without making the interior feel cluttered or out of place.
The piece was developed in CAD using 3D laser scans of the interior, so the fit stays clean and still works with the character of the original cabin.
It’s made from a high-grade filament, which keeps it both lightweight and mechanically durable.
We offer it in two versions.
One fits in place of the original radio and blends into the dash really naturally - and honestly, in a car like this, the engine is the music anyway.
The second version sits under the dashboard for builds where the owner wants to keep the original radio location.
It’s a small part, but it adds a cleaner, more intentional look and gives the interior a more finished feel.
Small piece, but it changes the whole feel of that area.
This is one of the smaller interior pieces we’ve been working on for a classic Mustang.
It’s an accessory gauge housing for 52 mm gauges, designed to sit under the console and add a few extra instruments without making the interior feel cluttered or out of place.
The piece was developed in CAD using 3D laser scans of the interior, so the fit stays clean and still works with the character of the original cabin.
It’s made from a high-grade filament, which keeps it both lightweight and mechanically durable.
We offer it in two versions.
One fits in place of the original radio and blends into the dash really naturally - and honestly, in a car like this, the engine is the music anyway.
The second version sits under the dashboard for builds where the owner wants to keep the original radio location.
It’s a small part, but it adds a cleaner, more intentional look and gives the interior a more finished feel.
Small piece, but it changes the whole feel of that area.
If you’ve been thinking about upgrading the front suspension on your '60 Mustang, this might be the right time.
Our Ohlins Front Bolt-on Suspension setup was developed to move away from the weak points of the factory layout and give the front end a much more precise, stable, and adjustable feel - without cutting into the car.
Technical highlights:
• bolt-on installation
• adjustable geometry
• adjustable ride height
• improved front-end precision and stability
• lightweight but strong construction
• CNC-machined aluminum parts
• formed steel components
• uniballs and turnbuckle-style adjustment points
• more room for proper suspension setup than the factory-style arrangement
‼️Special offer: ‼️
The first 2 customers to place an order get 50% off!
Send us a message for details or visit our website.
On vient d’installer un train avant modernisé sur une Mustang classique 64-70.
L’idée était de garder l’esprit de la voiture, mais de lui donner un comportement plus précis et plus agréable sur la route. Sur ces anciennes, le train avant d’origine a son charme, mais on sent vite ses limites dès qu’on veut une direction plus nette et une voiture plus stable.
Avec ce montage, la géométrie peut être réglée plus finement, la hauteur de caisse peut être ajustée, et l’ensemble donne une sensation plus rigide et plus propre à la conduite. Visuellement, ça reste assez discret, mais derrière le volant, c’est typiquement le genre de modification qui change vraiment le feeling de la voiture.
Toujours intéressant de voir comment une Mustang classique peut garder son caractère tout en devenant plus agréable à rouler aujourd’hui.
Vous êtes plutôt restauration 100% d’origine, ou petites améliorations discrètes quand elles rendent la voiture meilleure à conduire ?
It’s not the first thing most people think about when talking about Mustang suspension, but rear toe has a huge impact on how the car feels at speed, under load, and during corner exit.
The factory toe link is built around a comfort-oriented setup, with rubber bushings and limited adjustment range. That makes sense for a street car, but once the car is lowered, aligned more aggressively, or driven harder, rear toe control becomes a much bigger deal.
What gets interesting is dynamic toe change.
Even if the static alignment looks fine on paper, the rear wheel can still move under load if the bushings deflect. That can make the rear of the car feel slightly nervous or vague, especially when the suspension is loaded hard through a fast corner or during a weight transfer.
For the GTM setup, the idea was to make this part more precise and easier to dial in.
This version uses an adjustable threaded body, spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings, and a CNC-machined 7075 - T651 aluminum construction. The goal was not to make it complicated - just to give more accurate rear toe adjustment and reduce unwanted movement in the link itself.
The nice thing about this kind of part is that it doesn’t really shout for attention, but it can change how consistent the rear of the car feels once the alignment starts to matter.
Power is fun, but rear geometry is what decides how cleanly the car actually uses it.
One of the parts we’ve been working on for the GTM S550 setup is the front lower arm.
The factory arm is built around a large rubber bushing on the chassis side. That makes sense for a street car, since it helps with comfort and NVH. But under hard braking or during a fast corner entry, that rubber compliance can let the wheel move slightly in a way that the driver can actually feel.
Not as a dramatic failure, but as a softer front-end response.
A bit of vague movement.
A bit of delay.
A bit more steering correction than you’d ideally want.
For the GTM setup, the idea was to make the connection more direct.
The arm uses a CNC-machined 7075 - T651 aluminum construction, with spherical bearings instead of rubber. One side controls the chassis-side movement, while the outer side uses a heavy-duty bearing setup at the knuckle. The goal was to reduce unwanted deflection and make the front suspension react more consistently when loaded.
What’s interesting here is that this isn’t really about making the car feel “stiff” for the sake of it.
It’s more about cleaning up the front-end feedback, especially in the moment between braking, turning in, and loading the outside front tire.
We’ve been working through the exhaust side of one of our 1964.5-1968 Mustang projects, and this is the direction we went with.
It’s a dual-path side-pipe system with side exits on both sides, built in 2.5" tubing from AISI 304 stainless. The whole thing was laid out in CAD around the factory chassis and suspension mounting points, so packaging and fitment were a big part of the work from the start.
Each rear section uses an elliptical muffler and an electronically controlled valve, so the system can be changed depending on how the car is being used. Everything is TIG welded, and the sections are joined with V-band clamps.
Not really a subtle setup, but technically it made sense for the kind of build we had in mind.
Curious what you guys think - side pipes on an early Mustang, or would you stay with a more traditional exhaust layout?
Been looking deeper into the rear IRS setup on the S550 Mustang, and the vertical link is one of those parts that gets more interesting the longer you stare at how the suspension actually works.
It’s a pretty compact component, but it sits in a very important place - between the control arm and the rear knuckle. So when the car launches hard, loads up the rear suspension, or puts power down on corner exit, this little part is right in the middle of that force path.
The factory version is obviously built with comfort in mind. Rubber bushings help with NVH and daily driving, but they also allow some movement when the suspension is loaded hard. On a stock-ish street car, that’s fine. On a car with more grip, more torque, or more aggressive use, that movement starts to become part of the conversation.
For the GTM setup, the idea was to make the vertical link feel less like a soft connection and more like a precise suspension member.
So this version is CNC-machined from 7075 - T651 aluminum and uses spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings. Simple layout, no adjustment for the sake of adjustment, no welded sections - just a stiffer and more direct link between the suspension arm and the knuckle.
The interesting part here isn’t really the part itself, but what it affects: how cleanly the rear end reacts when load comes in fast.
We’ve been working on the rear upper arm for the 6th-gen Mustang IRS setup, usually called the “banana” arm.
It’s one of those parts that doesn’t get much attention from the outside, but it has a pretty important job in how the rear suspension behaves under load.
On the factory setup, the arm uses a soft rubber bushing, which makes sense for comfort and NVH. But once the car starts seeing more grip, harder launches, track use, or generally more aggressive driving, that compliance can become noticeable. The rear geometry is not always as consistent as you’d want it to be, especially when the suspension is loaded hard.
For the GTM project, we wanted to approach this part from a more precise motorsport-oriented angle.
So the idea was to create a CNC-machined T651 aluminum, using a spherical bearing instead of the factory rubber bushing. Not to make the car harsh just for the sake of it, but to reduce unwanted movement and make the rear end behave in a more predictable way.
A lot of people focus on power first, but with the S550 IRS, keeping the rear suspension controlled is just as interesting. Especially when you start looking at wheel hop, camber behavior and how the car puts power down on corner exit.
Still a relatively small part in the whole setup, but definitely one of those pieces that shows how much is going on underneath the car.