Tried to adapt a professional Chypre Floral formula for my small beginner organ. Did I ruin the structure?
Hey everyone. I’ve been lurking here for a few months and mixing very basic accords, but I wanted to try something more complex.I recently got my hands on a document named "tuberosys". It’s a formula for a Chypre Floral fragrance, and the structure looked amazing: top notes of Orange Blossom, Bergamot, Tangerine and Petitgrain; heart notes of Tuberose, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Virginian Cedarwood and Rose; and base notes of Oakmoss and Ambrette.
Here is my problem: The full formula has nearly 30 ingredients. My beginner organ is tiny. I don't own things like Zenolide or L-Laurinal.
I spent my entire Sunday trying to use a spreadsheet to re-balance the formula using only the 20 ingredients I actually own. Every time I removed a material, I had to recalculate the percentages for the musks and florals to fill the gaps, and I kept messing up the math. I was getting incredibly frustrated.
I googled around and found a site called dupehacking. I just pasted the original formula in there, checked off the materials I had in my box, and let it auto-scale the batch to 100 parts so I wouldn't have to deal with Excel anymore.
It gave me this adjusted formula. Before I waste my expensive Jasmine Absoluteon a 10ml trial, can you guys tell me if this still makes sense?
formula:
My Adjusted Formula:
Kharismal® (IFF) - 41.60
Ethylene Brassylate - 20.00
Calabrian Bergamot Oil FCF - 6.00
Sicilian Lemon Oil FCF - 5.50
Yellow Mandarin Oil - 5.00
Muscone (Firmenich) - 4.50
Linalyl Acetate - 3.50
Ambrox® Super (Firmenich) - 2.60
Cedarwood Virginia Oil Rect. (Firmenich) - 2.60
Australian Sandalwood Oil - 0.50
Lavandin Grosso Oil - 0.50
Jasmine Absolute - 0.25
Geranyl Acetate - 0.25
Methyl Anthranilate - 0.20
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil - 0.20
Tuberose Absolute 50% - 0.10
Orange Blossom Absolute 50% - 0.10
Ambrette Seed Absolute 50% - 0.10
Evernyl (Givaudan) - 0.05
Dimetol (Givaudan) 10% - 0.03
Will the Kharismal completely overpower everything else since I had to cut so many modifiers? Any advice on how to handle missing ingredients when following professional formulas is super appreciated!