u/Smart-Second9965

In the wind w Brooke, aka the Blanco Branco

Claims to free up some amps so the stator runs cooler. Anything noticeable? Thanks

Finally have a set of ratcheting wrenches. They’re really nice.

Some madlad here said they were collecting all the toughcase stackables and I thought it was a horrible/expensive idea. So here we go with my 3rd to the collection.

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Sharing because kinda important- especially on these late 90’s/early 00’s.

There was absolutely no grease in the neck bearings- like zero. Pumped it in and no old grease came out- none, just the new red Lucas- plus I had to pump it 1000x to even see that.

Before the grease, with the front off the ground, I loosened only the bottom pinch bolts and stem clamp bolt- loosened the stem bolt, then grease, then did the stem bolt adjustment-which is the manual way.

After that, I raised the rear preload 1cm on both sides to shift more weight to the front.

Torqued everything before setting the bike down.

Did 3 runs over 100 with 0 wobble. I knew it had to be close because from what I read a bad steering bearing would “crunch” or “clank” and there would be play when pulling on the bottom of the forks. (Which wasn’t the case here)

Big up’s to everyone who helped think about this, have a great weekend ✌️

📝:

-As someone previously mentioned the wheel fallout should be more like a rest against each stop without the hard bounce. When it made sense it started feeling and sounding more like a buttery “left…right”, not “bang bang” or molasses.

-The grease is key. Without it, the stem bolt adjust was good for high speed but dangerously too tight for low speed making the bike feel sketchy coming to a stop and v.s. The grease is what enables stem bolt to be snugged down where it needs to be for high speed stability while the bearings remain free for sharp low speed maneuvers. *** Comment below brought up an important point: the neck chamber will be pressurized- to avoid over filling or damage to the seals the grease needs to go in with both lower pinch bolts, the stem clamp bolt and stem nut all backed off. It needs an unrestricted path out and when you see grease out both lower and upper neck STOP

- On the top of the stem bolt are two slanted dashes, between (depending on current orientation) is a triangle. The perfect adjustment for me (of course) lined the triangle dead center with the tip pointing directly to the center of the front tire with each dash beside it to the left and right. Probably intentional- but this also could’ve just been where mine felt right- which was a full quarter turn tight from where I started and 1/8 turn further than the first attempt prior to the grease.

-if you changed the fork components in any way- you need to adjust the rear suspension. I think mine was set when I first installed and walked out. So definitely check and adjust.

Any suggestions on a performance clutch cable you really like for (98-03)? Thanks!

Felt like the cams needed more air ever since my ham cam rattled off on a night ride. Had a K&N E3040 on hand and Hammer let me order the backplate by itself. Definitely needed more air. The design scoops into the carb throat and the larger filter element really gives it a more aggressive tone. The growl of the cams is more prominent at idle too. Clear increase in torque, bike is a certified ripper for sure.

Refreshed the manifold seals, and learned you can just swap the rubber on the vacuum slide so I was able to keep the CVP metal. Added some Prism breather bolts straight to the ozone, fresh Denso IXU24 plugs.

S&S oil is the truth, makes the revs very smooth as someone here mentioned. If not this brand get something with Moly added. We’ll see how it wears but I’ve never heard the top end so quiet.

Have a great weekend! Ride Safe.

Refreshing my intake seals and decided I might as well do the carb. Glad I did- was probably leaving a lot on the table with this

Been wanting to try this oil and came across this deal- more expensive oil that would actually come out cheaper than Mobile1 because this would be 10 quarts at $10 (opposed to $17)- that’s at least 3 oil changes. Is this jug mainly for a shop? Like would it be a bad idea to let the oil sit between changes?