u/Smoke_Stack707

I don’t want to be too much of a downer about this event but boy, something has got to change. Wait in line to get in. Wait in line to get drink tokens. Wait in line to exchange your token for a 6oz pour. Realize you don’t want to keep waiting in line for such a small pour so you get in the other line to exchange some tokens for a 16 oz cup. Spend more tokens to fill the cup. Lines, lines, lines. That’s really all there was. I guess there was the polka band and yea, you can walk around the park and look at the animals and but you’re always going to come back to this one spot to stand in line again. I’m not a cider drinker but the lines for cider were insane; easily double the length of the long lines for beer at one point.

The first year I went, there were a lot more beer vendors and they were scattered around the park so it was more like a scavenger hunt trying to find them all. The lines were shorter because the whole crowd was more spread out. I get that they can’t have loud music in the park as a point of interest but the one bear exhibit isn’t really enough to entertain all of those people, especially when you can finish your 6oz pour by the time you get from the beer tent to the bear area. My group did the skywalk which is always nice but I’ve done it plenty of times at this point.

It’s a neat idea and I know it supports the zoo but I don’t think I’ll be back next year. I hope they make an effort to organize and lay the space out better in the future.

Hi all,

I had this game on my wishlist for a while but never got around to pulling the trigger on buying a hard copy. Now it seems to be out of stock everywhere which is poor timing considering there is an expansion coming out soon. Have the publishers made any comments about a potential second print run? Thanks

I’ve been making a cutting board a a a present for a friend and I have some scraps pieces of walnut I’d rather use than throw away. They’re maybe 3/8” thick and definitely need to be jointed if I’m gonna glue them up. Running something that thin over the jointer seems kinda sketchy though. I guess I could try running them through the planer? They have marks from the table saw I’m trying to remove and I’d like to use them but I’m also not desperate enough to lose a finger over it lol

Watched a couple clips of the Pipeline showcase. My company really needs to get something like this. We have a big tugger but it’s such a pain to move and set up that we often try giving smaller pulls the ol’ hand job (giggity) instead of bothering to set up the machine.

Some of the stuff on the Milwaukee looked nice but it also seems like a lot of plastic and you’re tied to the current battery platform/configuration whereas a drill-driven one could theoretically be used forever.

Idk, we did a small pull this week where a hand held tugger would have been amazing. 200’ of 1/0 aluminum out to this barn. Wasn’t exactly impossible between two guys but it still took a while to set up. Seems like if we had a smaller tugger that was easy to deploy, that same job could have been done solo (assuming the spools cooperated).

Sorry for the ramble, TGIF

Hi all,

I’ve been hunting for a bandsaw for a couple years now. I was aiming for a 3hp motor but through fate or finances I could never find a used one near enough to me to make it work. I finally settled for a Rikon with the 1.5 or 1.75 hp motor and I’ve been trying to get used to it. I’ve never owned a bandsaw before, much less used one in a shop setting so there was a lot to learn.

My first inclination that I’d messed up was I went to my hardwood dealer to buy blades and they gave me the biggest side-eye about it. Dude had never heard of the brand and they didn’t carry the size of blades the Rikon takes. Started to make me feel like I made a mistake with my purchase.

It took me a couple hours to get my new blades (bought online) to track right and even then my cuts have been sort of… not great. I realize the bandsaw has like a million adjustments that all have to be set perfectly so probably all of this is user error BUT…

somebody just posted a Jet 3hp bandsaw for sale near me this morning. I’m toying with the idea that I should buy that one and try to sell my Rikon. Is that crazy? I’m a bit concerned no one will buy the Rikon and I’ll have two bandsaws to fit into my shop. I have definitely felt the Rikon bog down during resaw, will the bigger motor make a difference? I upgraded to a 3hp cabinet table saw and the difference is night and day from my jobsite saw.

Sorry for the ramble, thanks for any advice

Just finished 90% of my dust collector ducting today. It’s not pretty or perfect and the bandsaw isn’t added into the mix yet but I’m just so happy I won’t have to move the stupid DC around the shop anymore. Definitely an upgrade I should have made years ago. So, what is the thing you added to your shop most recently that has been a game changer?

Hi all,

I have a 2 hp dust collector and homemade cyclone separator for my shop which has worked fairly well so far. My only issue is, due to my shop layout, my jointer is the farthest tool from my DC (Probably 20’). I’ve been scrounging some 4” pipe and fittings from friends but the more I research the whole thing online, it seems like the jointer is too far away from the DC for it to work. If I assume 8’ of vertical pipe up and back down, I’m at 36’ of duct work for the jointer. Is this a fool’s errand?

I was considering maybe making a second cyclone separator to just park next to the jointer so that I’m not trying to suck large shavings 40’ across my shop and it’s just the finer dust that has to move. Anyone else pushing the limits of a 2 hp dust collector and getting results? Thanks for any tips.

Thinking about picking up my first dado stack this week. I’ve been eyeballing the CMT locking ones for the safety factor but I’m pretty sure I can’t get them locally and I’d have to settle for something else. Is the juice worth the squeeze with the CMT ones or will really any old dado stack do?

I saw a Mike Holt video the other day where he mentioned a code article that “cables have to be secured to the box/enclosure they enter”. So 3 piece metal clamps or plastic (excuse the term) “butthole” clamps would do the job. My company uses a lot of the “pass through” black bushings in place of either of those and my apprentice asked when is one acceptable and the other isn’t. I didn’t really have an answer for him.

I guess during my whole apprenticeship, as long as the cable was secured close enough to the box, it really didn’t matter what type of clamp or bushing you used. Can someone cite me some chapter and verse of where pass through bushings are allowed and when they are not? Thanks

Hi all,

My shop does a lot of rewires in older homes, most of them with lath and plaster walls. Typically we just use a multitool/oscillating saw with a combination of blades to extract the old boxes but the last rewire we did we went through an inordinate amount of blades and the cost really started to add up. I’ve definitely used a grinder in some situations in the past but the dust is really a non-starter.

The m12 cutoff tool seems like a good solution to getting 80% of the cut done in lath and plaster and just finishing the corners with a multitool which would save on labor and materials. Has anyone used one? I’ve read they’re underpowered but I’m curious if that’s just people expecting similar results to a full size 18v grinder (which I’m not)

Kinda casting around for the next book to purchase. Like probably a lot of people I saw the Quinn’s Quest video about Stonetop and was intrigued by a game with so much depth baked into it. I’m a little weary of buying “complete games” only to have them be “lots of vibes and you make up the rest” kind of thing. Both Stonetop and Dolmenwood boast being very detailed and full of depth which I think is my main criteria for the next game I’d like to purchase.

Recs from anyone who has tried either one? If you had to choose (since they’re both $100+ in paper) which one would you pick?