u/Spatz126

Image 1 — Help on how to install LED headlights
Image 2 — Help on how to install LED headlights
Image 3 — Help on how to install LED headlights
▲ 0 r/E30

Help on how to install LED headlights

Recently I asked you guys if you had installed these LED headlights on your E30s, and that convinced me to buy them. Now that I have them, I have stumbled upon a problem. There is no bracket for the LED headlights, and I cannot think of a way to install them. I need some real help, please.🙏

u/Spatz126 — 5 days ago
▲ 1 r/E30

Custom wheels on stock suspension?

Just wondering how it would look. Stock height and suspension with 15 or 16 inch wheels 👀

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u/Spatz126 — 2 months ago
▲ 10 r/E30

Does it need more light bulbs?

Does it look healthy, it work perfectly. Just wondering if it need something else.

u/Spatz126 — 3 months ago
▲ 2 r/E30

E30 VDO Speedometer/Odometer cold-start failure (Buzzing odometer motor, zero needle, springs to life when warm)

I am troubleshooting a temperature-dependent issue on my 1990 E30 320i VDO (Series 2) speedometer/odometer unit. When the cabin is cold, the speedometer needle stays dead at zero, and the odometer electric stepper motor emits a distinct buzzing/vibrating noise proportional to vehicle speed, but it lacks the torque to actually turn the gears. Once the car's interior warms up thoroughly, the system suddenly springs back to life, and both the speedometer and odometer function flawlessly. So far, I have already ruled out mechanical gear failure (gears are intact and spin freely), replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on both the main cluster board and the speedometer daughterboard, and reflowed the main brass terminal pins to rule out cold solder joints. The logic circuit seems to receive the differential pulse signal (hence the speed-proportional buzzing), but there is a severe amperage drop/current starvation in the power delivery stage when cold. Has anyone successfully isolated which specific peripheral component—such as the calibration trimmer potentiometer, the ceramic/film capacitors, or a cracked power resistor—causes this exact thermal current loss on the VDO driving circuit?

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u/Spatz126 — 4 months ago
▲ 16 r/E30

Instrument cluster finally working (moslty)

Reflowed every solder, changed speedo capacitors, odometer gears, changes si board bateries for 2 cr2032 3v batteries and external battery holder. Every light works, except for one that i personally didn't change because I'm missing a sensor. Some SI board lights are burnt but i don't really care. The only consistent problema i still get is that depending on the weather, warmer or colder, the speedo takes some time to start working after starting to drive. My main source of information (Gemini) tells me that after all I've done, the only possible cause of my problem is that the "grease" inside the speedo for the needle is dry and need just a little heat to start working again. Any thoughts on this people? I'm tired of taking out the my cluster haha

u/Spatz126 — 4 months ago
▲ 1 r/E30

Motor blower's been out for some time, worked fine then just level 4 and finally dead. I still have to check it inside and the resistor, but not so long ago the electric mirrors also died. I've checked relays, fuses and all seem okey. I put a cable between pin 87 and 30 I think of the mirrors relay and they worked. But got nothing from the motor blower. Asked Gemini (because is the only help i have haha) and it said that the starter solenoid ground connects to the fuse box and stuff like that. People have put their hands on the starter and some cables around there before me so I'm not sure how its supposed to look originally. Can someone show me a picture of how the starter look with all 4 connections that it has. Mine has 2 big bolt and 2 small ones.

Thanks.

English is not my first language srry

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u/Spatz126 — 5 months ago