r/E30

Really easy to replace just remove the air intake, you don’t need to remove the alternator.

Im currently in the process of adding a/c to my m52 swapped e30. Since I didnt want to shell out for the a/c solutions kit, I had to come up with my own way of adapting the compressor to the e30 system. I decided to fabricate a custom manifold. I bought #10 and #8 braze-on fittings and an aluminum plate from aliexpress and brazed them together using a cheap torch and camping stove.

The benefit of making this custom manifold is that i can use original bmw suction and discharge lines rather than having to make or purchase custom lines. For the suction line I use pn 64531380542, which has a #10 fitting on the compressor side.

I got the idea to do this after finding this part. Unfortunately the shipping for that part to canada almost doubles the price, so i decided to try my hand at fabricating a copy of it myself.

Thought I might share this to give everyone an alternative to the expensive a/c solutions kit!

Hi all! Trying to determine if its worth rebuilding my p/s pump or if i should just get a new one. is this amount of play normal? thank you

Ofc rn im running stock wheels and i wanna use stock for winter and buy a new set of wheels for the summer. I have some 17x8 ET25 and im wondering what tire size i should use. Planning on lowering it but an inch or 2 so nothing crazy but wanna know what kinda tire setups you guys are running. ( 17x8/ 25mm offset/ 57.1mm center bore.)

My hood release cable is seized (handle also broke) so I can’t get it open from the inside at all.

I then figured I’d do it via the release latch, found plenty of videos and descriptions, but my car doesn’t seem to have it? It’s a 1991 318i EU spec.

I started disassembling the front but no success, do I need to start taking off these horns as well? Is that all aftermarket? Maybe it’s hidden by that plastic part next to the horns?

Curious if anyone had similar issues before and managed to find the release latch.

So my idle was a little low(around 500rpm) so I have since adjusted it via the idle screw on the intake manifold , idle obviously increased and the tacho was a little lazy , when I was adjusting since the tach was so lazy I had to play it by ear just wanted to know if this sounds adequate , PS I’m fully aware of the ticking that’s my manifold leak I need to fix

Does anyone have experience with the A/C Solutions R134a ac conversion kit for the e30? I have a 1989 325i sedan so I bought the 9/1987-8/1989 w/oil cooler kit along with the brackets kit, but upon installation the new AC compressor does not fit where the old AC compressor was, as it bumps into the oil filter housing. Has anyone encountered this issue? I’m not sure how to proceed, if there is another AC compressor that I am supposed to use.

Just got the car after being converted to webers 40 dcoe didnt bother trying to fix the EFI because the past owner tried numerous time it became a money pit to him so decided to do webers so i can atleast drive it around and it runs great, nice induction but planning to put longer velocity stacks to make it more louder from the webers

Grand caravan window motors, using OEM switch.

So a couple of days ago this handle started falling down..

It still works completely fine but it drives me crazy like this.

I wanna fix it but i don't know how to open it?

Is there a spring holding the handle in position?

Am i even able to fix this or do i need to buy a new handle?

Located in NJ, replace shocks and I also install covers. Labor 800 for both seats, lmk!

Bought a generic Amazon kit, which came with inline 15amp fuses for the 12v power and lock signal, 2 hours later and I am not sweating breaking off another key in my door / trunk.

Edit: I bought this one - keyless entry link

I used the trunk wiring, someone will yell at me because I didn’t go under the drive side footwell speaker panel, but I lock my car through my trunk already and I have fuses on the module, so this can’t be worse than my current locking procedure.

Module side - E30 wiring harness

Red with 15a fuse - Antenna power wire (red)
White with 15a fuse - lock (green and black)
White and black - unlock (green and purple)
Black - ground (brown)
Yellow - ground (brown)
Yellow and black - ground (brown)

Hello! A month into my first e30 (1991 318i manual US, which does originally have an m42 it’s not swapped look it up), and the tachometer hasn’t worked since I owned the car. I do not know why it doesn’t, but I needed to replace backlighting in the cluster so figured I’d check the SI board and the batteries while I’m here. All of my cluster works fine but the tachometer.

Don’t know what I’m looking at here, does anyone have advice on what to do here? Order of components to test/check if they’re the issue? Do I go pin to pin and check solder? Also the batteries look fine to me. Not sure the SI board was the place to start. Anything helps…

BONUS: if anyone has broken an ear off the cluster when removing it and could share how they fixed/managed it that would be welcome.

I got this 318i for free(i know js about what a normal person will know about cars ig) how should i go about fixing it and restoring it any advise? I wanna see if i can get it to run.

Hi I bought this e30 back in April and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of how I can find the history of this car or anything about it is a 1989 325 and the guy I bought it off of said he got it from a shop that it was sitting at for a long time. I was fully race built but I’m not sure if it was raced. Thanks