quick update on the 10' x 10' pergola — rafters are on.
red pine frame over the flagstone patio. next up will be the clear roofing and figuring out the final fill between the stones.
#timberframeapprentice #timberframing #pergola #redpine #flagstone #buildrememberrepeat
we're cutting 3x5 rafters for a small timber frame pergola this weekend.
the rough-sawn material varies quite a bit. a nominal 5" depth might actually be 4¾" on one rafter and 5¼" on another.
rather than referencing the seating notches from the bottom of each timber, we're laying out both the lower plate notches and the upper purlin notches from the top of the rafter down.
that makes the top our reference plane. variation in the timber gets absorbed below that reference rather than showing up in the finished roof plane.
we're also varying the depth of the outside seating notch slightly to pick up about another inch of fall across the roof.
four 2x4 purlins will drop into notches across the tops of the rafters and provide fastening points for the clear/translucent roofing.
pretty simple application of square rule, but a good example of why establishing the reference face matters when you're working with rough-sawn timber.
curious how others here handle irregular rafter stock—same approach or something different?
we finally got our 10x10 timber frame pergola standing today as part of our flagstone & pergola project at star hill.
the frame is all red pine:
the interesting part was that this frame was cut, test fit, and then stored under cover for over a year before we raised it. even out of the weather, red pine is still red pine. it continued to dry, twist, and shrink, so every housing needed a little cleanup before assembly.
we drilled all of the peg holes during assembly instead of beforehand. after a year of drying, there was no chance the holes would have lined up. timber wrenches, truck straps, and a little persuasion brought everything back into alignment.
the patio underneath is about 3 tons of flagstone over a compacted class 5 base with about 2" of limestone screenings and fieldstone edging we gathered around the property.
still left to do:
it's satisfying to finally see the frame standing after looking at a stack of timbers for the last year.
i'd be interested to hear how other timber framers deal with twist in softwood frames that have been sitting before final assembly. do you drill your peg holes during assembly, or do you have another approach?
doing a little chisel testing in the shop and figured i'd see what everyone else prefers.
left to right:
we're looking at edge life, how they feel in the cut, ease of sharpening, and just overall performance in timber.
i spent decades using hollow-ground chisels, and they still work great. but these days, you'll usually find a convex-ground chisel in my personal tool bucket. i like the more acute cutting angle with the rounded shoulder behind it. it just seems to get through the cut a little easier while still holding up well.
what are you all using these days? hollow, flat, or convex? what's made you stick with that grind?
one of my favorite little frames. we designed this for a front porch project in alaska (16' x 30').
we're getting started on a flagstone patio and timber frame pergola, but first we've got to move a lot of rocks.
this corner of the property used to be an old field. like a lot of old farms, every rock that came out of the ground eventually ended up in a corner pile. instead of hauling them away, we're using them as accent stones throughout the new flagstone patio. it seemed like a good way to keep a little of the property's history in the finished project.
we're moving them with one of those little chinese mini excavators that's powered by a lawnmower-style gas engine.
i know these machines get mixed reviews, but for this kind of work it's been surprisingly capable. it's obviously not replacing a bigger excavator, but it'll move fieldstone, fit into tight spaces, and sip fuel while doing it.
that said, if you're thinking about buying one, i'd only recommend it if you're mechanically inclined. quality control on many of these machines is inconsistent. you should expect to go through the entire machine when it arrives—check every bolt, fitting, hydraulic connection, grease every pivot, change the fluids, and make sure everything is adjusted correctly. if you're willing to do that, they can be a lot of machine for the money. if you expect dealership-level prep and support out of the crate, you'll probably be disappointed.
anyone else running one of these little machines? what have you found they're actually good at, and where do they come up short?
this housing was cut with a 1" irwin chisel from the box store.
would a dedicated timber framing chisel be better?
sure.
but this taught the same lessons:
clean edges.
cross-grain work.
paring.
patience.
sometimes you just need to stop researching and start cutting wood.
what was your first chisel?
Short clip from a recent timber framing class.
This student was drilling his first peg hole using a 1" x 18" WoodOwl ultra smooth bit and a simple shop-made jig built from scrap wood.
The jig helps keep the bit aligned, reduces wandering at the start of the cut, and makes it easier to produce a clean, straight hole through the timber. It also helps reduce tear out on the exit side.
Nothing fancy. Just a simple solution that works surprisingly well.
Curious how others are drilling peg holes in larger timbers. Are you using guide blocks, commercial drill guides, or freehanding them?
test fitting wall plates this week.
​
one thing new timber framers quickly learn: small imperfections create big gaps.
​
a tiny bump in a mortise or a little waste left in a corner may seem insignificant while cutting, but once two timbers come together those small errors become very visible.
​
that's one of the reasons we test fit before a raising.
​
it's not just about making sure the frame goes together. it's about understanding how your layout, cutting, and cleanup process affect the final fit of the structure.
​
for many students, this is the moment when the light bulb goes on.
​
it's a lot easier to fix a problem on the ground than in the air.
​
​
3" timber framing slick.
i'm a big fan of convex grinds for one simple reason: they're scary sharp and easy to maintain.
for this cut i flipped the slick over so the convex side was riding against the timber. that lets me peel a light cleanup cut without the edge wanting to dig in.
the curl is satisfying, but the real goal is the surface left behind after the curl comes off.
that's the finished edge.
no sanding.
no cleanup.
just a sharp tool leaving a clean timber.
i know convex grinds aren't for everyone, but i've become a believer.
road tripping today and stopped to look at the rippa rs06 pro.
we've got some bigger projects moving from idea to reality over the next year:
• fairy cabin
• pergola & patio
• flagstone work
• moving timbers
• moving rocks
• moving logs
our backs and shoulders aren't getting any younger, so we're looking for a compact machine that can help without jumping all the way to a full-size skid steer.
overall, we liked what we saw. access to the engine was good, controls seemed straightforward, and the machine felt pretty substantial for its size.
for those of you actually running one:
• how many hours do you have on it?
• what attachments are you using most?
• reliability issues?
• parts support?
• things you love?
• things you wish you'd known before buying?
not looking for brochure opinions. looking for real-world owner feedback.
photo from today's stop.
a lot of folks call this a commander.
it’s just a chunk of hardwood with a handle, but it saves a lot of grief when fitting heavy timbers together. normally i’ll attach an axe handle, a baseball bat handle, or whatever stout piece of scrap wood is handy and use it to persuade joints into place.
one thing worth mentioning: even with a commander, i’m usually striking a sacrificial block rather than the timber itself. it spreads the force, protects the workpiece, and keeps the inevitable dents somewhere that doesn’t matter.
simple tool. ugly on purpose. works every time.
Using truck straps during test fit before drilling peg holes
One of the most useful tools during a test fit isn't a timber framing tool at all. It's a truck strap.
We use straps to pull joints together, bring assemblies into alignment, and make sure everything is tight, square, and sitting where it belongs before we start drilling peg holes.
One thing we've learned is not to put the strap or ratchet directly against the timber. We'll usually use sacrificial blocks under both the strap and the ratchet to spread the load and avoid denting the timber.
Another thing that might be a little different from some shops: we don't typically pre-drill peg holes in the tenons.
With multiple people involved in layout, cutting, fitting, and assembly, things can move slightly during the process. Instead, we'll pull everything together, verify dimensions, check square, and make sure the joint is exactly where we want it before marking and drilling.
If we're drawboring, we'll assemble the joint, prick the tenon location through the peg hole in the timber and housing, then disassemble. When drilling the tenon, we'll move the hole about one moose hair toward the shoulder before reassembly. That offset gives us the drawbore and helps pull the joint together as the peg is driven.
I'm curious what others are doing.
Do you pre-drill tenons before assembly, drill during test fit, or use a different drawbore workflow altogether?
this past weekend we raised the first bent for the sno hill build.
for me, raising day is always the transition point. months of planning, layout, cutting, fitting, fixing mistakes, and double-checking details finally turn into something standing in the air instead of laying on sawhorses.
this frame was cut as part of a star hill class, and the students were involved throughout the process. before we ever lifted the bent, we went back through every joint, every brace, and every connection. in fact, we found we were one knee brace short and had to cut an emergency brace before the raising could begin.
the actual lift went smoothly, and seeing that first bent standing is a reminder that timber framing is really a series of small steps done carefully and in the right order.
more bents and more raising photos to come, but i thought some folks here might appreciate seeing the first one go up.
a little behind-the-scenes from the weekend as we got everything in place for today’s frame raising.
always interesting to see what can be done with a few people, a simple plan, and a little preparation.
anybody else using a timber wrench a lot?
funny how workflow changes over the years. early on i mostly just fought the timber. these days i’m way more interested in leverage, control, and moving big material without wrecking myself.
simple tool, but once you get used to rolling large timbers with control, it’s hard to go back.
curious what other folks are using for handling and rotating big material around the shop or yard.
we found two guys timber framing a couple years ago and started experimenting with using the sawmill directly in timber framing workflow.
the photo is a 16' 8x10 tie beam with a 2" x 6.5" true through tenon being processed on the mill.
we’re now using the sawmill for:
tenons
housings
scarf joints
reductions
shoulder cuts
personally, i think it’s fast, precise, and incredibly efficient.
curious who else is using this approach and what operations you’ve found work best.
paring a scarf joint using a standard 1 1/2" framing chisel works fine.
but once you switch to a slick for larger surface cleanup work, the difference becomes pretty obvious.
the 3" slick:
honestly one of those tools you don’t fully appreciate until you use one on a big surface.
curious what others here prefer for large timber cleanup work:
standard chisels
slicks
japanese slicks
something else
using our little “tonka” mini excavator to dig footings for a 10 x 10 pergola.
surprisingly capable little machines for small property work.
that said, expect to:
check bolts
check hoses
fix wiring
do modifications
not commercial-grade machines, but useful if you’re mechanically inclined.
curious what others are seeing with these smaller chinese minis?
working on footing layout for a 10 x 10 pergola build
started by establishing the first corner and running a control line parallel to the building
from there we squared everything up using a 3-4-5 method and checked diagonals before digging
one footing is being dug by hand because it’s close to the well line and well pump electrical
didn’t want to risk hitting anything with a machine
the remaining footings will likely be machine dug
these will be sonotube footings about 4' deep to get below the frost line here in wisconsin
curious what others are using these days for layout
3-4-5
lasers
batter boards
matching diagonals
something else