r/timberframe

is it weird to make an internship at the age of 26 after a bachelor in architecture and before a master in architecture after realizing iam missing the practical part and the relation to the craft itself? like do you guys think its useful to make an intern maybe for 3-4 months before my archi masters maybe at the carpenter? or would you rather recommend working in a bureau? i feel like i can still do that besides or after my archi studies and i‘ll still work long enough in a bureau and never get this practical experience myself .. what do you guys think?;) thankful, for every opinion and own experience maybe😅☺️

Hi all, does anyone have experience with longitudinal kerfing to basically induce or replicate checking to reduce the tension and straighten a beam? I have an off-center pith 6x6 #1 Doug Fir beam that's 22 feet long, and it has a slight bow on one end that curves toward the outer radials. It's not huge, 1/2" max about 8-10 feet from one end, but it's the end I want at eye level...

The timber is going to be used as the center support column in the front of a prow design, so it carries one end of the 6x18 ridge beam, with windows and sliding glass doors on both sides, with 4x12 headers above the doors. I'm not sure if I'll be able to mechanically bend this back to being straight during installation given that it's more toward one end, and the end that will be adjacent to the doors, so no structural support there. Below I've included a diagram of the setup and a few photos.

The end of the beam has predictably bowed toward the outer radials as it has dried, so my thought is that if I disrupt the tension in those radials with some longitudinal kerfing (along the beam) on the sides you won't see--basically artificial checking--the beam will go back to being straight-ish (I can live with 1/4" bow). So I would take my circular saw, set it to roughly 20 degres and ~1-1/2" deep, and rip a line up the outside faces perpendicular to the radials in the grain, for about 10 feet where the bow is the most extreme. Given that it's going to be used as a post, this shouldn't affect it's load-bearing capacity tons since the kerf cuts are longitudinal...

There is some literature supporting this, but I'm looking for some more experience-based insights. Has anyone ever tried this? Crazy? Standard timber-framing procedure?

https://preview.redd.it/xe4pkr6a262h1.jpg?width=1647&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab790de0103248ef6e848e03b1127d8094c2c151

And here are a couple photos of the beam and the end-grain that is causing the problem.

https://preview.redd.it/797yyst9562h1.jpg?width=1684&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=193c4c46fd39ae50b4d34da9fafda292f2e4da83

https://preview.redd.it/jkgripwk362h1.jpg?width=1983&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f6ca5c25f30590796b1e5234c611cf86a834ab2

Hi all
(First time post, so please bear with me:))

I’m trying to setup a swing/monkey bar area for the kids.

I’m thinking 6x6 oak beams for columns and beams, in a cube like setup (3m x 3m x3m)

I’m looking for some guidance for the four corners, some thing like the attached picture.

1. Any guidance at all is much appreciated
2. Any “cut drawings”/dimensions for the attached photo is likewise appreciated

Kind regards from Denmark
- Søren

Hi all
(First time post, so please bear with me:))

I’m trying to setup a swing/monkey bar area for the kids.

I’m thinking 6x6 oak beams for columns and beams, in a cube like setup (3m x 3m x3m)

I’m looking for some guidance for the four corners, some thing like the attached picture.

1. Any guidance at all is much appreciated
2. Any “cut drawings”/dimensions for the attached photo is likewise appreciated

Kind regards from Denmark
- Søren

Hello people,

I am building a timberframe project - the actual structure I think is more or less clear and I dont have particular issue there (so far) however on the insulation part I am struggling a lot to find relevant information.

I am focused on creating a sub-structure which would hold the insulation/windows. As far as I understand it there are 3 options - putting this non-bearing structure on the inside/between or on the outside.

As I want the timbers to be visible on the inside and the in-between part seems like way too complex to achieve well from energy saving perspective I have focused on having this non-beraing structure on the outside.

Here is where my confusion is coming from - whatever I do I have to attach this non-bearing structure to the load-bearing timberframe structure and am unsure what is the best way to do this. The green timbers would shrink with some percentage and there should be a proper way to do it so that this structure does not warp or open gaps.

Saw this https://www.forestry.gov.scot/sites/default/files/pub-documents/PDF_ForestryIndustry_Green_Oak_Construction_2007.pdf howevre here they just mention where the gaps can form and using sliding ties but could not find any information what exactly a sliding tie is and how to use it.

Are there any particular readings you can point me to? Or specific examples? I would be happy with absoluteny anything as this has been bugging me for some time.