u/TommyT_BrownellsGT

Cleaning your rimfire suppressor is important because rimfire ammunition like .22 L is especially dirty compared to other calibers. Rimfire ammo produces a lot of carbon, which quickly builds up inside the suppressor. Over time, this buildup can reduce performance, making the suppressor louder and less effective, while also adding noticeable weight. If left unchecked, the fouling can harden and become difficult or even impossible to remove. Like the baffles shown below. This can potentially shorten the life of the suppressor. Regular cleaning keeps everything running smoothly, maintains consistent performance, and helps ensure safe, reliable use every time you shoot.

https://preview.redd.it/edusjjfij52h1.png?width=1058&format=png&auto=webp&s=4fc65e16d0735f2c2f1f9e3170a085e49d6d5077

https://preview.redd.it/ibi1cbia852h1.png?width=488&format=png&auto=webp&s=20658f97f67a48a361848443e11adf624d06d1bf

one of the products I stand by is Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner.

Brownells Part # 430111641

https://preview.redd.it/hixgig68952h1.png?width=489&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ffaa3042ed9408d40e5f0a0614aefc4dc0dff54

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https://preview.redd.it/0q08k4yh952h1.png?width=491&format=png&auto=webp&s=b2acd063616669ab4fc3123284d6e983a7ecb901

I found that a 30 Cal bore brush fits perfectly, following the shape and curve of the baffle. You just need to make sure the spine of the brush is small enough to fit through the center hole of the baffle. MORE IMPORTANTLY

^^^NO MATER WHAT THE PENUT GALERY SAYS, DO NOT CHUCK IT UP IN A DRILL LOL^^^

I suppose you could if you wanted to but, there's no need.

Spine is smaller than the center hole.

https://preview.redd.it/a19q2k7pf52h1.png?width=440&format=png&auto=webp&s=72e9a988c6383bffc98b0f7f3581ef1812102d8f

https://preview.redd.it/o135ew8rf52h1.png?width=488&format=png&auto=webp&s=958c84082b04e4dce7879d9f2717f8b250ab6499

Obviously, an ultrasonic cleaner would be an option. They work absolutely phenomenaly. However, there are other ways to keep that critter getter nice and quiet.

Check out the link below if you're interested in Breakthrough. I use it on Gas blocks as well. Its good stuff!

BREAKTHROUGH CLEAN SUPPRESSOR CLEANER

https://reddit.com/link/1tcc6ek/video/i6wvf4ooebuf1/player

First and foremost! I'm not saying that you need to attempt this project. I'm not saying this is the only way to complete this conversion. I'm Saying, this is the way I do a takedown conversion.

Essentially, you can complete a takedown on every model of lever action if you understand what is at stake and what the consequences are.

More importantly, why do you need a takedown. For me it's simple, storability and versatility.

Below are some of the takedown lever actions I've completed. I've done Some Marlin 1895s, some Winchester 94s, Hennery's, Ubirti's, it's all the same basic steps with variations along the way.

Below, are pictures as well as some handwritten basic instructions for an 1895 that you can modify for a 94, 95 or 92 if you wanted to attempt a conversion.

Use your imagination and understand the differences between the different models (side load, tube load, barrel band Vs dovetail ETC.)

Just remember, TIMING IS EVERYTHING

These instructions do not cover head spacing which is my final step before field testing. (Head spacing, testing and field testing could be covered in another article) However, I will add test video for the simple sounds of BOOM!

After you read the instructions and you feel like you are ready to build your first "giddy up bush pilot guide gun space cowboy" give us a call, I can explain the more define details and precautions that are needed that will help you along the way. Or check out Shop Brownells: Gun Parts & Gunsmithing Tools Since 1939 for the parts you need to get your Space Cowboy built.

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Shop Brownells: Gun Parts & Gunsmithing Tools Since 1939

Have you ever seen people Hydro-dip? You might have seen someone in a video on several different social media platforms dipping all kinds of things. Did you know that you can Hydro-dip gun parts? Well, today, I want to share with you my experience with my DIY hydro-dipping tank build, then in my next article, I will go through the steps of hydro-dipping, along with some tips that I have learned through the Process.

The supplies that you will need are a farm basin wash sink (plastic construction). Roughly about 5 feet of 3/4inch PVC piping. I decided to go with ¾ inch, but ½ inch piping will work just fine as well. 1 hose clamp, 2 plastic piping elbows that can fit into the PVC pipe, and 1 end cap.  PVC cement or plumbing cement. You need some JB Weld two-syringe epoxy. This will take out the guesswork of trying to figure out the correct amount of resin and hardener. So, your water needs to be at 80 degrees for the film to react to the water properly. So, I purchased an aquarium water heater for tropical fish so that you can get the water up to temp.

I will state right off the bat that I am no plumbing expert. There may be other ways to do this, but this is as simple as it gets. If you have a better way, I would love to hear your thoughts on it. I bought the farm basin wash sink at Lowe's for $94.00; it did not come with the plumbing or the faucet. I recommend spending a couple of extra dollars and getting the plumbing with it, so that you do not have to spend a lot of time fitting parts together. Note: I built the tank as per my needs and what I must work with. I do not have plumbing to my garage for a water line or drain, so I had to adapt everything so that I could make this sink movable to fit my needs. If you have the option of a water line in your garage or shop, then go with that option.

The first thing I did was measure the distance from the back of the sink to the front of the sink. Take that measurement and cut the PVC pipe to that length. Then, using the PVC cement, connect the end cap to one end. After that, I took one of the Piping elbows and put the cement around the part of the elbow that is to be inserted into the pipe. Once that was all cured and solid, I took the other end of the elbow and pre-fit it into what I had left over from the ¾ inch piping, laying this setup on top of the sink with the end cap at the bottom left corner of the sink and the pre-fit elbow and pipe on the back side of the sink. Then I measured 2 inches from the right edge of the sink on the pipe to give me room to add a garden hose later. I cut the pipe at that measurement and used cement to seal in the first elbow, then the second elbow facing downward.

https://preview.redd.it/44x6oo6kvkzg1.png?width=291&format=png&auto=webp&s=fb68102bfea1de5950dd8d8979e1a1b416d2a887

Once the setup is cured, I used the JB Weld 2 syringe Epoxy and glued it to the sink. As I said earlier, I am using an average garden hose from my outside water spigot to the sink, clamping it off at the elbow on the right-hand side of the sink. Then I set up a simple drainpipe to empty the sink. One tip I would like to pass on. When draining the water, you will have leftover film floating. I use a pool screen to filter out the film from the water before draining, because if you are just draining the tank outside on the concrete, it will stick to the concrete and dry, causing some unsightly debris. I just filter it out and scrape it off in the trash.

The Last tip I want to share is, when placing the water heater in the tank, make sure you get one that does not make direct contact with the sink, where it could melt the plastic. Otherwise, that’s the DIY build I did. If you have any suggestions on how I can make it better, I would love to hear them.

Here is my addition for Wheel Gun Wednesday.  A few months back I picked up a S&W Model 60, always wanted one so I figured the time was right.  I like it because it will shoot 38 Special as well as 357 mag.  Well, I started thinking, I sure would like a 9mm J-frame also.  Well, I remembered TK Custom. One of the services they provide is to work on your cylinder so it will accept 9mm cartridges on a moon clip and retain the ability to fire 38 Special and 357 Magnum cartridges with or without moon clips.  This is what they say: 

 After conversion, the cylinder will still safely fire .38 Special and .357 Magnum with or without moon clips. The machining process simply allows the charge holes to also accept 9mm cartridges when used with moon clips.

• 9mm must be used with moon clips.
• .38 Special and .357 Magnum can be fired single loaded or with moon clips.
• .38/.357 brass may show slight case head bulging in converted cylinders. This only affects reloaders and does not impact function.

Cylinder walls remain thick enough to support a full-service life of .357 Magnum.

I don’t have access to a mill, so I figured heck yes, and I sent my cylinder off to TK Custom and got it back in under two weeks.  Now all I need to do is to go out and shoot it. 

This is the revolver with the milled-out cylinder and 9mm moonclips.

https://preview.redd.it/fe3moxxc6kzg1.png?width=421&format=png&auto=webp&s=662b6bd9b67706c363b7d3e63db4fcc895bc205f

Here is a close up of the milled cylinder.

https://preview.redd.it/j66rrykg6kzg1.png?width=423&format=png&auto=webp&s=447041d79314ef71c50c4f4efe669958f0b99a3c

And here is a close of the cylinder with the moonclip.

https://preview.redd.it/q84qa56k6kzg1.png?width=326&format=png&auto=webp&s=28fed531067e700edf6a007c5dca03f9fb8eca9f

Now I got a J-frame that will handle 38 Special, 357 Magnum and 9mm and am a happy camper.

 

Thanks,

Dean

Parkerizing

Suggestions when measuring the Atomized Steel Powder (081021104) to age the fresh batch of Brownells parkerizing solutions.

Here is what is said in the instructions about measuring the powder for aging the Brownells Manganese or Zinc parkerizing solution.

While maintaining the Parkerizing Solution at 140° F. (minimum 120° F., maximum 160° F.) add .32 oz. (by weight) of powdered iron (remember, .32 oz. of powdered iron per each gallon of Parkerizing Solution). If you have a powder scale, .32 oz. is exactly 140 grains. If you are using measuring spoons, 32 oz. is approximately 2⁄3 teaspoon.

In looking at this information, I realized a couple of things:

1.       Most folks may not have a scale handy to measure .32 oz. or 140 grains.

2.       Most measuring spoons don’t measure in 1/3 oz. increments.

Now in the past when I measured it out, I "guestimated", which means I put the coffee filter in the palm of my hand and guessed when I thought I got about 2 oz. of atomized steel.  I am generally making 4 gallons in one of our tanks which if you take the .32 oz times 4 it is equal to 1.28 oz.  Because I am guessing, I always go high in my guessing because it is better to have too much because you do not want to be short on the amount.

I know in the way I did it, I used way too much powder, so I decided to use standard measuring spoons and determine how much is needed.  What I found out is pretty simple.  Using your measuring spoons, measure out ¾ of a teaspoon per gallon and you will be set.  So, I used ½ tsp and ¼ tsp measures to make the ¾ tsp, and these are level measurements, not heaping.  So, for the 4 gallons, I use 3 level teaspoons of the atomized steel in a coffee filter.  This will be a little more than what is needed, but as I said, I would rather have a little too much than too little.

I hope this makes it easier to measure the atomized steel for when you are aging a new batch of parkerizing.

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Picatinny and ARCA are both excellent mounting systems, but they’re designed around very different priorities, which is why the debate keeps coming up as more shooters move into precision and competition shooting. Picatinny (MIL‑STD‑1913) was created as a rugged, universal military standard, intended to securely hold accessories like optics, lasers, and lights under recoil, impact, and harsh conditions. ARCA, by contrast, originated in the photography world as a tripod interface and was later adopted by precision rifle shooters because it solves balance and support problems that Picatinny was never meant to address.

https://preview.redd.it/wwkfov1jfzxg1.png?width=722&format=png&auto=webp&s=8e5045d1fe34afd621624cf58ab62a47047d02ae

The biggest functional advantage of ARCA is adjustability. Picatinny accessories lock into discrete, fixed slots, which means you’re limited to a set number of positions. ARCA clamps can slide anywhere along the rail and lock down instantly. This allows shooters to fine‑tune balance on a tripod, precisely adjust bipod placement, and quickly reposition support gear when moving between barricades or shooting positions. For PRS and NRL style shooting, where balance and efficiency matter, this continuous adjustment is a major advantage.

https://preview.redd.it/akmbhj4nfzxg1.png?width=403&format=png&auto=webp&s=d228ccb7de2c3bef47ff08551106436aff1069f7

ARCA also excels when used with tripods. ARCA has effectively become the native mounting standard for tripod heads, leveling bases, and support systems. Using Picatinny often requires adapters, which add bulk, height, and potential flex. With an ARCA rail, the rifle clamps directly to the tripod, resulting in a lower‑profile, more stable, and cleaner setup. If you regularly shoot off a tripod, ARCA is simply a better interface.

Weight and ergonomics are another reason ARCA has grown in popularity. ARCA rails tend to be lighter because they don’t require the deep, repeating slots of Picatinny. They are also smoother, with no sharp recoil lugs to dig into barricades, chew up bags, or snag gear. While this may seem minor, it becomes noticeable during positional shooting and longer stages where the rifle is constantly in contact with props.

That said, Picatinny still holds clear advantages and isn’t being replaced across the board. Its biggest strength is universal compatibility. Nearly every accessory from weapon lights, lasers, grips, clip‑on optics, and night vision devices are designed around Picatinny. ARCA support exists, but it is largely limited to precision‑oriented accessories like bipods, barricade stops, and tripod clamps. Picatinny also excels at repeatability, since accessories lock into hard slots, which is especially important for lasers and devices that require consistent return‑to‑zero.

Durability is another area where Picatinny remains king. It was designed for hard use, resisting shear forces under recoil and surviving impacts and rough handling. ARCA is strong and more than sufficient for competition and field shooting, but it was not originally designed for combat‑level abuse, and improper clamping can matter more than it does with Picatinny.

Because of these tradeoffs, many modern rifles are now set up with a hybrid approach: a full‑length ARCA rail on the bottom for tripods, bipods, and barricade work, combined with short Picatinny sections where lights, lasers, or other duty‑oriented accessories are needed. This setup isn’t redundancy. It’s specialization, using each system where it performs best.

In short, ARCA isn’t “better” than Picatinny; it’s better at a different job. Picatinny remains the standard for hard‑use, universally compatible setups, while ARCA shines in precision, competition, and tripod‑centric shooting. That’s why ARCA adoption has exploded in the precision rifle world. It solves problems that Picatinny was never designed to handle.

I wanted to send information to everyone about finding the correct magazine tube for your Marlin .22 rifles. 

Marlin produced thousands of these rifles in several different configurations.  The chart I have provided is from the Marlin parts catalog from when Marlin was their own company. (so the phone number on the first page will be no good.)

The biggest thing you need to determine is the correct model of rifle you have. Marlin made several variations of the Model 60. Measuring what you have and going off the chart will make this much easier.

The incorrect magazine is purchased far too often due to going by the model you have and not the length you have. This chart should help fix this problem.  

Going to the manufacturer to get a new one is not an option. Parts suppliers are your best bet. 

The Gun Garage in Arkansas, Jack First in South Dakota or Numrich Gun Parts in New York will be good sources to check for a new magazine tube for your Marlin.

Check out the illustration bellow.

https://preview.redd.it/yce9w43k9kwg1.png?width=622&format=png&auto=webp&s=3280b9218f165813a82f468550fffda8ffc84289

https://preview.redd.it/athez2tm9kwg1.png?width=615&format=png&auto=webp&s=0ede88363650bdc86386582068cb21f30069b95f

 

HOW TO REMOVE AND REPLACE AR GAS RINGS WITHOUT KINKING OR RUINING THEM AS WELL AS OTHER THINGS.

This is a question I get asked while on the phone and hopefully the following text and photos followed by a short video will help. I will basically start with the disassembly of the bolt carrier group (BCG), the bolt, including the removal of the extractor and ejector, removal of the gas rings, and then the reassembly of everything. Below is a schematic of a standard gas impingement bolt carrier group.

https://preview.redd.it/7vggalgwqewg1.png?width=632&format=png&auto=webp&s=286056e920060a7ff3a0c4db63fd8797334d8478

Tools to have on hand for disassembly/assembly are the following:

1/16” roll pin punch – You can get the AR set 230112105 or the individual punch 230100001

Ejector removal tool - I like the Sinclair AR bolt vise 749003708.

Nylon/brass hammer such as 818600075 or similar

Now to begin the disassembly.

Push bolt into carrier as it would be in the locked position.

Take the 1/16” roll pin punch and catch the looped end of the firing pin retaining pin and pull it out of the BCG.

https://preview.redd.it/q5pwevx1rewg1.png?width=330&format=png&auto=webp&s=734c8c33191b3676d586a2569fdbddd3357edcd6

At this point you will be able to remove the firing pin to the rear of the carrier.

https://preview.redd.it/iux1hr35rewg1.png?width=309&format=png&auto=webp&s=59a011358dfb1466462f401a016720fb9d7e9616

Rotate the cam pin 90° and remove from the BCG.

https://preview.redd.it/8rhz2uk8rewg1.png?width=314&format=png&auto=webp&s=e78a50476d9c9b8ef31759d42c4acb537b35b08a

You will now be able to remove the bolt from the carrier by pulling it forward.

https://preview.redd.it/hpqvehocrewg1.png?width=311&format=png&auto=webp&s=df0d743eee010018606352091753e67a0c4165c1

In disassembling the bolt, I remove the extractor first and I do that by grabbing the bolt between my thumb and finger as shown and squeeze. Take the punch and push the extractor pin out and the extractor will come off. If you aren’t planning to replace the extractor spring and insert, it is not recommended to remove those.

https://preview.redd.it/eaofacjhrewg1.png?width=529&format=png&auto=webp&s=63cf67f8636c1e1e0e50a617087911209aa1f1e9

Next put the bolt in the bolt vise and compress the ejector with the screw until the ejector is almost to the bolt face, to remove the pressure on the roll pin. Make sure that the hole on the vise is under the roll pin. Take the 1/16” roll pin punch and tap out the roll pin. Once you have done that, relieve the pressure holding the ejector in place by unscrewing the screw assembly and the ejector and ejector spring should come out. If the spring is stubborn and not coming out, you can tap the bolt face on your bench and get the spring out.

https://preview.redd.it/15hdov9lrewg1.png?width=625&format=png&auto=webp&s=26384d2f1169c7e35c04c4adcb7e9da00ee7d3ff

Now on to the gas rings.

You will notice that just behind the gas rings is a flat about 1/16” wide before the bolt tail tapers to the rear. Make a mental note of the flat, as that is important in the removal and installation of the gas rings.

https://preview.redd.it/t5hoptaqrewg1.png?width=172&format=png&auto=webp&s=e53f0290c3a1b15e10f2d6bf0dbd0c05cf8316ad

When I am removing the gas rings and I don’t want to destroy the ring, I will catch one of open ends and put that end on the taper side on the other side of the flat. Roll my finger around the circumference of the bolt tail and the ring will come right off without twisting. I will do that for each of the gas rings and at the end, the bolt will be totally disassembled.

https://preview.redd.it/5v1zkgyurewg1.png?width=602&format=png&auto=webp&s=4d9ff702663ca8c237bb9e0afe2a4edf5cfcac4d

To replace the gas rings, the bolt does not need to be disassembled. You can remove the gas rings with the ejector and extractor in place. I am simply going through the complete disassembly of the BCG, and the gas rings were the last part removed. With that being said, I will now put gas rings back on the bolt.

I take the first gas ring and slip it over the bolt tail from the rear and bring it up to the flat area. I take one end of the gas ring and put it into the gas ring slot and leave the other end outside the flat on the taper. DO NOT ALLOW THE EITHER END TO REST ON THE FLAT because if you do, the gas ring will kink and not just drop into the slot. Once you have one end in the slot (holding it in place with your finger), and the other end on the taper roll your finger around the circumference of the bolt and the ring will slip into place on the bolt. Pull that ring towards the front of the slot and start your second ring and follow the same

procedure. When that is installed, pull both rings to the front and do the third ring. Watch the video and you will see it being done.

https://preview.redd.it/bnqigj4zrewg1.png?width=613&format=png&auto=webp&s=854b64ff8feb42847650dfde70ae04d1fe9298ba

Now for the ejector. Drop the spring into the ejector hole in the bolt face and next slip in the ejector, make sure the short end goes in first and make sure the notch is positioned so the back of the notch is parallel to the outside of the bolt body. Put bolt in bolt vise and slowly compress the ejector and ejector spring until the ejector is again almost to the bolt face. Take your 1/16” roll pin punch and push it into the hole where the roll pin goes and make sure the roll pin goes all the way through the bolt. This assures you that the hole and ejector notch are lined up properly. If the punch hits the ejector and does not go through the bolt you will need to decompress the ejector and spring, reposition the ejector and try the process again. Do not attempt to insert the roll pin until your punch shows that the hole and the notch in the ejector are lined up correctly. Once your punch shows everything is lined up in the bolt, take your roll pin and position it in the hole and using the punch and hammer, tap the roll pin until it does not stick out on either side of the hole in the bolt. Use the back end of your punch to depress the ejector until it is flush with the bolt face to ensure it will fully depress.

https://preview.redd.it/nao95qe2sewg1.png?width=568&format=png&auto=webp&s=15b9e751738d963a72556d2cdbca9470ff021655

With the extractor, position it in place and again with your thumb and finger squeeze the extractor and the bolt together while looking down at the extractor pin hole and line them up and push the extractor pin into the hole. If everything is aligned correctly, the pin should be able to be pushed in with just finger pressure.

https://preview.redd.it/8445bb76sewg1.png?width=322&format=png&auto=webp&s=e6c3d4f3c8cd3d1c963acbc2a18a4f3b87bc6810

With the bolt completely assembled, push it into the carrier. Do not slap it in, rotate the bolt back and forth and the gas rings will compress, and the bolt will go the rest of the way into the carrier.

If you are facing the BCG from the front, make sure the extractor is at the 10 o’clock position and then the cam pin hole should be visible through the cam pin slot on the carrier. Make sure the cam pin head side that is longer is parallel to the carrier body.

https://preview.redd.it/ijxxr0i9sewg1.png?width=205&format=png&auto=webp&s=2f7346ce7b24d59c5a0aa6542bf2254c5d21240d

Once that is done, rotate the cam pin 90°, and insert the firing pin from the rear until it can go no further then take your firing pin retaining pin and insert and rotate until it mates up with the hole on the opposite side and slide in flush.

There you go, you have successfully disassembled and reassembled your BCG and learned how to install your gas rings easily and without stress.

Check out a video of Deans BCG disassembly and re assembly here Bolt Carrier Rebuild

https://preview.redd.it/3n5bjvw0dcwg1.png?width=742&format=png&auto=webp&s=5adbc2fb798bbdc153aa478fe92b1e37e0c84ff8

Today, I want to talk about the History of the Beretta M9. I want to start by saying this brings a little nostalgia to me, being in the United States Army as a Military Policeman. I served for 13 years, and I can tell you that there were very few days that I did not have this on my side through training, shooting ranges, law enforcement patrols, and even two deployments to Iraq.

The Beretta M9 is the Military official designation for the Beretta 92FS. It is a semi-automatic, double-action, short-recoil, with a hinged locking piece assisted breechblock. The pistol is chambered in 9x19mm Parabellum. It has a barrel length of 125mm (4.9 inches) with a total length of 217mm (8.5inches). It has a Muzzle Velocity of 381 m/s (1250 f/s). Its effective firing range is 50m (56 yd), and the maximum firing range is 100m (110yd).

This pistol was adopted by the U.S. Military as the standard military service pistol in 1985. When it comes to the Military and selecting a firearm for service, the firearms must go through a competition. In 1980, M9 won the competition to replace the M1911A1. With the competition, each firearm goes through a series of “survivability” tests. Which includes exposure to temperatures from -40 to 140 degrees Faren height, saltwater test, repeated drop tests on concrete, buried in sand, mud, and snow. One thing that stands out with the M9 is that it proved an MRBF (mean rounds before failure) of 35,000 rounds. That equates to five or six times the pistol's service life. Let me know your thoughts and comments on this article.