Wanted to grow a couple to maturity before stagger planting and cutting and coming again. Gonna give 2 of them away and use 4 cups of the Lola Rosa for grilled chicken salad tonight!
I noticed my roots turning brown on Friday, there wasn't any brown gunk at first. I did my water change on Saturday. I think the brown gunk is algae, and when I did my water change and tilted my rails to empty them, all the brown gunk that was in the system got caught on the roots.
The roots are firm and strong, I wouldn't describe the roots as slimy. The parts where the brown gunk is on the roots has a little bit of a slippery feeling, but I wouldn't call it slimy. After I decided this wasn't Pythium these are the steps I took to hopefully mitigate these issues. I'm also including my typical system/room conditions.
System = NFT/DWC hybrid
PH = 5.8-6.5, since the new water change I did Saturday pH has been kind of annoying and has been swinging
EC before water change = 450ppm
EC after water change = 640ppm (I bumped up the EC since my first batch is growing more mature.
Resevoir temp swing = 66 to 72f. I cycle out 3 frozen bottle of water twice a day to keep that range
Nutrients = Maxi Gro
Ph product = General Hydroponics
Steps I took to hopefully mitigate this issue:
Taped top netcup holes to lessen the amount of light coming into the system
Put in 1tsp of hydrogen perxodie per gallon
Bought an air stone and pump to better aerate water
So, I'm curious if you guys think there is any flaws, if you agree this is brown algae. I don't know why the roots are brown but I'm assuming nutrient staining. Any advice or thoughts would be very appreciated.
I would like to grow strawberries in my vertical tower but I quickly learned that T5s or T8s struggle with lettuce, so it's safe to assume it would struggle with strawberries as well.
Those brackets/arms barely fit T8s, so I'm sure something stronger wouldn't fit the brackets either.
So I'm looking for light recommendations as well as vertical stand solutions so I can grow strawberries in my tower.
Thank you.
Hello
And he also has a build guide on how to build this and exactly what you need.
After finally getting this up and running and starting some seeds in stagger I'm running into some stretched seedlings. The lights are T8s and they are 12" above the canopy of the rails. According to him and people who have build his system and used it, this is sufficient light.
I did use tap water that I conditioned and my changeout this week is going to be with purified water instead because it's been very difficult to manage PH from my tap water.
So I'm curious what everybody thinks. If this is a lighting issue or not. If it is, can I still get away with growing with some stretched seedlings? If not, which lights do you recommend that are 4' and will cover 24-36"?
Anything other reason for stretched seedlings besides low light?
I did add nutrients late, like 2-3 days after the second true leaves. So Idk if that played a part or not really since they were stretched prior to true leaves anyway
Thank you
I'm very excited and awaiting the silicone to finish curing in the next 24-48 hours.
I'm not the most handy guy but managed to put this all together with a couple hiccups, roadblocks, and annoyances. Hopefully none of the hiccups are game ending, but I'm hopeful.
Can't wait to run water through and check for leaks and then get started!
Really excited for this majorly because I can start the seeds right in the system!
Hello, I'm in the middle of gathering and putting together my shelf system and I'm following simple green hydroponics system.
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He's using 50' long posts
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In this diagram he has 8.25" between each plant site which allows for 6 plants for each 50" post. I was wondering if any of you have shortened these lengths down to 6" spacing or if you think that would work? 6" allows 1 more plant on each post. I thought I read that 6" is an acceptable spacing for most lettuce varieties in an NFT system? (this isn't fully NFT, but still)
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Ill be growing mostly loose leaf lettuce, romaine, green onions, maybe different types of lettuce down the line.
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I have a feeling the 8.25" spacing is there for a reason. Doesn't hurt to ask though haha.
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Hello, so I have Post Cholecystectomy Syndrome after having my gal bladder removed. Took me years of "we don't know what's going on" we exhausted a large majority of scans/tests, even biopsies my liver because the symptoms always caused liver issues.
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Anyway, finnalh about 1-2 years ago they finally put me on cholestyramine and it's completely changed my life. I could poo normally, no more fetal position and pain in the morning. All the things I had been dealing with forever were finally gone.
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Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago though, and I'm starting to have side effects 30 mins-1 hour after taking cholestyramine
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Onset: 30 mins to 1 houra
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Symptoms: halo headache, primarily in the temples, increased heart rate, malaise, raising mind, continuously waking up.
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Symptoms after waking up: migraine, minor pain in my abdomen, malaise, and pain in my left side back, lower part of ribcage. Like around pancreas/kidney area I guess.
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Have an appt scheduled for the 30th. The doctor is recommending not taking thr cholestyramine since these episodes have happened 4-5 times now. And the symptoms last for a solid 18-20 hours. But if i don't take the cholestyramine, Ill go right back to having my daily pain that initially got me prescribed to cholestyramine. Trying to convince my doc to run blood tests prior to the appointment, no response yet.
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Notooking to self diagnose. Just trying to find other long term users who may have had similar issues.
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Thank you.
Not sure if anybody here has knowledge on this but worth a shot.
When I printed my tower I was excited and didn't stop to think. So when I realized printing a tower in PLA wasn't the best option I started looking for solutions that didn't consist of me printing another tower.
Food grade epoxy is a solution I've come up with but I wanted feedback on this. From my research, as long as the product is reputable and you allow the product to properly cure (72 hours minimum), it's okay to coat my tower in it and grow that way.
If my research is correct this solves a couple issues.
Layer lines holding moisture
Food safety
Degradation of PLA overtime due to water contact.
Please don't burst my bubble, but if you have to, let me down gently. My current batch of seedlings is 2 weeks away from transplant, so I have to act fast or I'll have nothing to transplant them to. 😭
I see a lot of people growing with Simple Greens Hydroponics shelf rail system and he uses Veranda 4x4 posts. Well according to the makers of Veranda, those posts are not food safe.
So I'm struggling to find square/rectangle, food safe channels to build my shelf with
Any recommendations? Is safe even necessary since it's just the roots touching?
Hi, I'll tell you my process because this is my first time starting seeds. These are all lettuce varieties. I'm on day6 and I think a couple of these are looking leggy, but idk.
Soaked rockwool(pH adjusted) and let them drain
Dome on, heat pad on misting the bottom of the rockwool with pH adjusted water everyday and letting them breathe for about 5-10 mins per day.
3 days and most seeds had germinated so I took the dome off, filled the tray with water (up until the water touched the bottom of the rockwool) kept heat pad on, and turned on lights and had them about 4"-6" away from the top of the rockwool
I've been filling the tray with water once every other day(until water touches the bottoms of rockwool)
I didn't realize I needed airflow until day 5, so yesterday I put in one of those tower fans on medium. Plants don't blow too much, just a good small movement.
Please critique my process and let me know if there is any issues. I started another batch of seeds 2 days ago. Following the same process, so early enough for me to make changes
What do you use to get rid of the chloramine?
My first seeds are still starting and through reading im finding out that not only do I need to worry about chlorine in tap water but also chloramine.
I have Campden tablets which will dechlorinate and get rid of the chloramine. But they are sodium tablets.
I read that 1/4 tablet for 5 gallons is enough to get the job done without introducing too much sodium but I wanted other opinions/methods just incase there's a better way.
Thank you