u/Tthemechanic

So there is no resistor or anything for the kickstand sensor from under the tank connector down to the switch so I decided to try and bypass the switch. There is 3 wires red,green and black. Red being an ecm 5v feed that’s a square wave to power the sensor electronics. Green is ecm input 0-5v and black is ecm/chassis ground. I believe the actual sensor is a Hall effect type but I haven’t busted mine apart to take pictures of internals. The ecm uses the green wire to monitor voltage coming from the sensor using about 4.9 volts being kick stand down and .48mv up and closed. So simply jumping the green wire to black tells the ecm that the kickstand is up and doesn’t kill ignition. I haven’t spent more time with an oscilloscope to truly determine the ecu logic or what exact switch it is or if the ecu has a random checksum or return voltage fluctuation to set a cel but 200 miles later it appears to work just fine. So all together the ecu wants a grounded signal on the green wire measured at .48 mv and I don’t have a fancy enough meter to determine current so it’s probably well under .01 amps so I think it’s fine to just jump the two and ride.

Just serviced oil and air filter and upon reinstalling my air filter the lower clip broke right at the base of the airbox. Now before you say should’ve taken to the dealer or under warranty the dealers in AZ suck and would blame me and probably have my bike for a week just to make me pay out of pocket for an airbox ($350). Since glue and epoxy didn’t work I lathed down a 1/4-20 machine screw bent it in a 60 degree angle drilled a hole with a washer and double nut with loctite. I will update with pictures on Monday after I’ve rode back from work to check my work.

I’ve done some testing with what would happen if you try to bypass the clutch switch ex: looping clutch switch connector together so the bike sees the clutch is always pulled and leaving it open and seeing what happens. I’ve determined that in 2-3 ride cycles with the circuit looped the bike will set a check engine light and continuously flash a F1 warning on the cluster. Now this isn’t a permanent code once you set everything back to how it was it will resolve in another 2-3 ride cycles. The reason behind this is the ecu detects a rationality error thinking it’s implausible to shift gears up and down, raise and lower wheel speed without the clutch sensor circuit being open at some point. Now I have not determined if leaving the clutch circuit open and the ecu not seeing the circuit close occasionally, that we are stuck with a cel or error and the only way I see a solution is someone pinning the ecu out and finding the limits of what causes a cel/error light to come on with a oscilloscope or logging. Maybe someone will figure out how to with an ecu flash or perhaps a dongle transistor that will keep the ecu happy. Thanks