r/DRZ4S

Hi everyone, I’m a new user posting from Italy. I don't actually own the bike yet, but I am seriously considering buying one and I’m trying to gather as much information as possible before making the purchase.
Since the European version comes equipped with an EVAP canister, I'm already thinking about removing it completely. My idea is to take the tank vent hose, route it directly down towards the bottom of the bike, and secure it to the frame. To keep things safe, I will also be installing an inline rollover valve on that hose to prevent any fuel from spilling in case of a fall or tip-over.
Has anyone done this exact modification on the EU model before? Does this seem like a smart and safe way to go about it, or am I missing any crucial details?
Any advice or insights would be highly appreciated!

I’ve done some testing with what would happen if you try to bypass the clutch switch ex: looping clutch switch connector together so the bike sees the clutch is always pulled and leaving it open and seeing what happens. I’ve determined that in 2-3 ride cycles with the circuit looped the bike will set a check engine light and continuously flash a F1 warning on the cluster. Now this isn’t a permanent code once you set everything back to how it was it will resolve in another 2-3 ride cycles. The reason behind this is the ecu detects a rationality error thinking it’s implausible to shift gears up and down, raise and lower wheel speed without the clutch sensor circuit being open at some point. Now I have not determined if leaving the clutch circuit open and the ecu not seeing the circuit close occasionally, that we are stuck with a cel or error and the only way I see a solution is someone pinning the ecu out and finding the limits of what causes a cel/error light to come on with a oscilloscope or logging. Maybe someone will figure out how to with an ecu flash or perhaps a dongle transistor that will keep the ecu happy. Thanks

https://preview.redd.it/vh32c6tf3e0h1.png?width=809&format=png&auto=webp&s=c07f37afebc27e227ae4f49214a191d150a460b9

Hey everyone!

I’ve just finished compiling a comprehensive datasheet with over 300 torque specifications for the new DR-Z4S and SM.

Since the bike is so new, I figured this might be useful for anyone starting to work on their own builds or doing maintenance.

You can find the high-res PDF here: https://drz4s.org/wiki/

A quick note: I don't have the full, final service manual yet, so I’ve cross-referenced everything as accurately as possible. If you spot any typos, weird values, or if something feels off, please let me know in the comments so I can update the file for everyone.

I’ve included everything from engine mounts to the specific steering stem procedure and spoke nipples for both S and SM versions.

Hope this helps the community!

Cheers, stay tuned!!! ✊💨

I hear the '26s have daytime running light mode for the front blinkers. Any rumor on if Suzuki will grace the 25s with DRLs?

It’s been 1 year since I switched from a cruiser to a 2024 Honda 300L rally which I absolutely love and am looking to upgrade speed, torque and especially suspension which the DRZ4s is better at but I love the wind protection of the rally but would put a windshield on the drz4s and am wanting conformation that it is worth the switch from drz4s owners and am also wondering would it also be a good enough replacement for a 2022 ktm 150sx I bought purely for fun, single/double track, and to learn jumps for fun pretty much specifically at gypsum city Iowa

I’m looking at picking up a used 2025 SM, it’s at a dealership with 160 miles and has the full Yoshi pipe. I asked if they knew if it had a ECU flash or not and they don’t think it does.

Question is, is there much risk getting a bike with such low miles running extra lean with an exhaust for that period? I wouldn’t think so, but I’m also new to the world of fuel injected bikes that need a tune to run properly.

Kinda seems like a steal at $8500 OTD when I would have bought the pipe eventually anyway, also already has a tail tidy. But it’s also somewhat suspicious. Curious to hear other’s thoughts.