u/Turbulent-Biscotti98

Image 1 — Damn I love this machine. So glad it's my second one.
Image 2 — Damn I love this machine. So glad it's my second one.
Image 3 — Damn I love this machine. So glad it's my second one.
Image 4 — Damn I love this machine. So glad it's my second one.
▲ 30 r/Makera

Damn I love this machine. So glad it's my second one.

Damn I love this machine. To be honest, I'm really glad this is my second CNC and not my first.
I started 4 years ago on an old Genmitsu with a twisted bed. No matter the stock size, it was always losing 0.3mm somewhere. Auto-leveling in Candle didn't fix it, so I spent hours in Fusion 360 tweaking files and splitting toolpaths just to compensate.
Setting up the Z zero, probe, changing bits, and doing all the work for every small job took hours. But well, I got used to the process and learned a lot from it.
Now with the Z1, it feels like a whole different level. Everything is so fast and precise that all my old paused projects are finally back on the bench!

u/Turbulent-Biscotti98 — 12 days ago
▲ 6 r/PCB

Power rpi hat wifi issue

Hi,

I’m having an issue with the Wi-Fi on my Raspberry Pi 5 when the LCD turns on. I’ve attached the PCB design and the hardware modifications (“hacks”) I’ve tried so far. Things got a bit better, but it’s still not working as it should.
I won’t focus on the rest of the PCB because I don’t think it’s relevant. If anyone spots something obvious that could be causing this, I’ll happily provide more details.
The setup is pretty simple:
* J11 is the 12V input, powered by a 12V 6A PSU.
* A DFR0753 converts the 12V to 5V and powers both the Raspberry Pi and the LCD through J14.

During testing I’m not powering anything else, just the Pi and the LCD.
As soon as I turn the LCD on, I get this warning:
[ 6.114522] hwmon hwmon2: Undervoltage detected!
and the Wi-Fi becomes much slower.
At first it was even worse and the Wi-Fi would stop working completely. I added a capacitor on the LCD backlight power output and also connected a few more GND pins together on the Pi HAT. I also tied together the +5V inputs on the HAT, which weren’t connected before.
After these changes I don’t see any voltage drop compared to the DFR0753 output. I measure 4.95V on the DFR0753 and the same 4.95V on the Pi HAT, both at the input and at the far end of the 5V rail.
I also measured the voltage on the Pi HAT while turning the LCD on, and I don’t see any noticeable voltage drop.
I also tried adding a capacitor between +5V and GND near the DFR0753, but it didn’t help. If anything, it actually made things a bit worse.
What else should I check? Any ideas?

u/Turbulent-Biscotti98 — 3 months ago

Knob frustration

I mostly use Fusion 360 as a hobbyist for technical/mechanical stuff, but almost never for organic/freeform modeling. I tried recreating this seemingly very simple smooth shape from a few reference views, and somehow spent the entire day fighting with it 😅
It looks extremely simple, but I just can’t get a clean result. I tried revolves, lofts, forms/sculpt, scaling, etc., but everything either turns lumpy or becomes really hard to control.
Am I approaching this the wrong way for Fusion? Or is there a workflow/trick that would make something like this easier? I’ll attach the reference views below — maybe someone more experienced can point me in the right direction, because right now my frustration is definitely higher than my polygon count.

https://a360.co/431E1yw

u/Turbulent-Biscotti98 — 5 months ago