u/UnityPerformance

Thrilled to finally complete the exterior look I originally pictured when I bought my FL5, just shy of the 1-year mark now. Over the past week we added:

AlphaRex AlphaBlack Headlights

Seibon Carbon Front Lip

Custom engraved and powder coated calipers

Paragon front rotors + 350mm upsized rear rotors

Brembo NAO ceramic pads + Wunderladen rear caliper bushings

Visual balance matters a lot to me. Before the headlights and lip, the rear end looked great, but the bog-standard front was dragging the whole look down. Now I can walk around the car and just go, yup, this is it! 😍

Wunderladen sent over an early preview of their PMM (street) to run on my FL5. Was already sold on their RMM, and having lived with their full mount setup on our 10th Gen Si, this wasn't a hard decision.

Top mounts were always a hard pass for me on personal cars, every other brand I'd looked at seemed to bring way more NVH than I want in something I drive daily. The Si experience is what changed my mind here.

Getting it in: Roughly an hour. Coolant tank comes out, hoses stay connected, support the weight of the engine from underneath. Compare that to the TMM, which eats up 3–4 hours pulling intake, battery, and everything else out of the way.

How it felt right away: The crunch on the 1–2 shift vanished, and 2–3–4 tightened up noticeably. Cabin noise ticked up slightly, but nothing beyond a mild rumble even running the A/C in July heat, no new rattles anywhere.

Where it stands now, 2.5 months later: Nothing's changed for the worse, which is really the headline here. Shift feel is just as tight as it was week one, NVH crept up slightly and settled down over time, no rattles have shown up. My wife still can't tell the difference from the passenger seat, which is the real test for a daily.

Bottom line: Already have the TMM? Easy yes on this too. Chasing tighter shifts without an NVH tax? Same answer. PMM or RMM first? Try the RMM first as a baseline.

Pre-order open for September: https://unity-performance.com/products/wunderladen-passenger-motor-mount-pmm-23-civic-type-r-fl5-23-integra-type-s-de5

Went back on the dyno after some recent mods. Weather conditions were fairly comparable to my last session, so it’s a reasonably clean comparison. Edit: first 3 dyno runs in the last picture are from session 1 in April, and last 2 dyno runs are from session 2 last week.

Mods:
Infinity Design Inlet & Intake
COBB Intercooler Kit

Still running the factory tune, so everything here is just the ECU adapting to the extra airflow — no tuning input at all. Honestly, the gains weren’t even the most interesting part. What stood out was how much smoother the powerband got: the dip between 3–3.5K is gone, and the curve is cleaner from idle all the way to redline.

This is a good example of why “the stock parts are already perfectly engineered, don’t touch it” isn’t really true in practice. Stock components are designed around cost, NVH targets, and mass-production tolerances — not peak flow or thermal efficiency. Quality aftermarket parts, even without a tune, can genuinely outperform stock in ways you can measure, not just feel. I’d suspected this powerband smoothing since install, but now I’ve got the dyno sheet to back it up instead of just butt-dyno impressions.

Next time this car’s on the dyno, I’m expecting the whp number to start with a 5 as we’re throwing all the fueling and an RV6 660 AS at it!

This wasn’t the original plan for my car, but it came together from a customer exchange for the intake, plus a sweet offer from Infinity Design (we’re an authorized dealer) to complete the setup with the inlet too — too good to pass up!

Butt dyno confirms an easy 5% bump in HP and torque across the whole rev range, plus a cabin full of induction sound when you get on it. Installing this is honestly what’s kept me from uploading a tune the last two months as it’s fun already— I’m holding out until the 2000cc Hondata injectors and RV6 660 AS show up so we can really make some jam!

I’ve had the ARK Exhaust on my FL5 for just over a month now, and it has a really clean tone both inside and outside the car. You can run it with or without the center resonator.

As someone in his 30s with a wife and a baby, I definitely prefer the resonated setup since it cuts down on in-cabin NVH. I think the younger and/or wilder crowd will probably enjoy the non-resonated version more.

There’s no real drone around town with the resonated setup. I only noticed a bit of it with the non-resonated version. I did a 50-mile drive with the cruise set at 75 mph, and while there was some cabin noise with the resonated setup, it was completely livable. Personally, I wouldn’t have wanted to do that same drive with the non-resonated version.

For reference, this is with the stock downpipe and front pipe. I usually rank exhausts as mild, medium, or loud. The resonated ARK sits on the lower end of medium, while the non-resonated version is on the higher end of medium. To me, loud is stuff like the AWE Track Edition Exhaust or Tomei Type D. A resonated ARK paired with an upgraded downpipe and front pipe would be a really nice combo.

Build quality is excellent. From the packaging to the welds, material quality, and overall finish, you can tell a lot of effort went into making this exhaust.

Overall, pretty satisfied with my time testing out the ARK! Anyone who has heard it inside or outside has complimented the sound as well 🙂

If you’d like to check it out, we’re an authorized ARK Dealer: https://unity-performance.com/products/ark-dt-s-exhaust-23-civic-type-r-fl5

I haven’t seen many of these COBB Intercooler Kits out in the field yet so I opted for it on my FL5, and I'm really happy that I did!

- Stealth look with no pre-painted logo
- Garrett core is a plus - one of the best in the biz
- Quality hardware (clamps, brackets), and hoses
- True plug n’ play. We didn’t have to cut or relocate any other parts on the car or bumper
- Sufficient volume increase as a Bar and Plate design to eventually support the goal of 550+ whp