u/UrbanLumberjackGA

We don’t have many Connecticuts where I’ve lived (Midwest and South), so I need to get them from the guys out East.

A good Connecticut is one of my favorite patterns, and when the profile is the right thickness, it makes such a nice all around axe. I’m in Wisconsin now, and there is a solid mix of hard and softwood forests. Nice to have an axe that I can use anywhere.

Probably going to put a banana grind on this, it’s fairly thick right now at about 27 degrees.

Here’s is the handle I carved today, and the others I’ve made over the last few days. The three on the left are Osage Orange, and the two on the right are hickory. The one with laminations is an Adirondack pattern. The one on the right is based on the Norlund Canadien handle, which IMHO is one of the nicest and most underrated pack and bushcraft axes of all time.

I’m getting more and more into carving axe handles, and Osage Orange is an incredible wood. It’s so dense it has a silky feeling to it.

The problem is sourcing! I’m calling all around and many hardwood dealers have Argentinian Osage (totally different from American Osage, and not as mechanically good). Others have Osage Orange from time to time, but the tree doesn’t grow plentiful, or big, enough to mill dependably. The result is very spotty availability.

But it’s amazing when I can get it! I have four more Osage blanks cut out and then I need to re supply.

Looking at this house right now, and otherwise really like it. Problem is these cracks on the brick. The collapsed retaining wall is in the basement on the same wall as those cracks.

I assume what happened was that retaining wall failed, and the dirt fell in, which caused the wall and foundation to settle and shift. The foundation is mid 1800s mortared stone.

So how bad is it? Can the wall be replaced built and everything be ok? What is the cost on something like this? Or is it best to just avoid the house entirely.

I wrote a post about Mint Builder recently, mostly questioning the shipping times and reasons for the delay. I have an update.

First, I think it’s very healthy and good to be skeptical of anyone doing business online these days. That said, Mint Builder does appear to be not only a legitimate company, but offering excellent silver at very good prices.

I placed my order June 24. Purchasing the Maples and Britannia at Spot, and the 2026 ASE (West Point Mint) for two dollars above spot. Shipping was free.

I received the order today (July 14), making the shipping process uncomfortably long for a new retailer, but ultimately I have ping tested the Coins and they are exactly as promised, and in wonderful condition.

In my opinion, premiums have become too rich, taking advantage of the demand for silver in particular. I still like to buy silver in person from time to time, Paying the extra premium for that experience. But in the future, anytime I am looking to accumulate silver, it’s hard to argue with mint builders prices. Just need to settle in and expect shipping to take up to a month.

Edit: grammar

Bought silver today. IMHO gold and silver selling off are signs that the everything bubble is starting to pop. Central banks are selling off precious metals and treasuries for liquidity to shore up their economies and buy oil. The economy runs on the greater fool theory, and it turns out the fools run out of money at some point.

Anyways, I was PUMPED about Mint Builder. Honestly, I’d never heard of them and loved the much lower premiums. I’m paying too much at my local place and as much as they’re good guys, premiums add up.

So picked out some new coins below $60! Wire transfer so no fees and free shipping.

Hi guys, I posted yesterday about struggling to get a good finish without so much sanding and wanted to say your advice was very helpful. I sharpened my tools, and increased rotation speed after balancing. I’m happy to say that I’m now getting much better results. This is the trunk of our first Christmas tree in our new house. I’ve kept it for months, wanting to make a decoration we can cherish for years.

Now, I need to ask your advice again. How do I make this look less like a butt plug?

I got this awesome Delta lathe a few months ago and have really enjoyed turning so far. Unfortunately, I’m struggling to get a decent finish, and need to spend a lot of time sanding. I also end up with some larger divots In projects (see chisel handle) that sometimes require changing the shape of the project to remove.

Any advice on how to get a more even finish on the lathe without relying so heavily on sanding? I’m sure this is greatly a skills issue but any thoughts appreciated

I get a lot of questions about making broad axe handles. They’re really not sold in stores anywhere and even when they can be bought online there’s so much variation in eye shapes and sizes that it’s almost easier to make one than shape what you need from an existing handle.

I’ve made a number of broad axe handles over the years and finally found a good method that is repeatable, so thought I’d share in case anybody wants to give making a broad axe handle a shot.

Really easy, takes about a day from start to finish and most of that is just time waiting for the steamed handle to dry in the form.

I’m not sure if I posted the link right, but I hope the video is helpful to anyone out there looking to half a broad axe or get into hewing.

This is the broad axe from the video and a log I hewed (with this and another broad axe).

Happy hewing!

Cut and bend broad axe handle
https://youtu.be/9LWUQmzitvs

Switched up to a 5 lb jersey for the second face. It’s hung on Buckin Billy Rays Deputy handle. This is my first time swinging the axe, I filed it just before heading out. I really like a banana grind filed the way Peter McLaren outlines.

File flat 2-3 inches on the center. Stay off 1/2 inch from heel and toe, and then convex the first 1/2 inch of the bit. I have virtually no sticking when I file an axe like he says. Again using the Wm. Beatty broad axe for hewing.

If you’re so inclined I do have a video up on my YouTube channel, I left it pretty much uncut so anybody trying to get into hewing can watch the full process. Urban Lumberjack is my Chanel name there.

I came by two beautiful Eastern White Pine logs. Notched with the Council Tool Jersey (old model), and hewed with this William Beatty broad axe. It’s still got the original gold paint. It’s in such phenomenal shape, I don’t know that it was ever hafted. At first I thought it was a Douglas. But after some cleanup the Chester, PA stamp revealed itself. Still a wonderful axe.

I bent a handle and hafted. The eye is absolutely enormous, largest I’ve ever hafted, without being a slip fit. Over 3.5 inches long, and 1.25 inches wide.

This broad axe is a plumb laser beam. It has a swooped toe, which is formed so well, it’s almost hard not to hew plumb.

A wonderful way to spend an evening.