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Direct wire to bus bar?

Anderson connector?

Auxiliary Power Outlet (cigarette lighter)?

Other?

I'm looking for a way to wire multiple locations for a fridge cooler. There will be one primary location, but I might upgrade to a larger cooler eventually, which would require relocating it to the other side of the camper.

I was thinking an Anderson connector in each location would be relatively easy, and flexible for changes later.

A bus bar wouldn't be that much more effort, but not as plug and play later on to add/remove appliances.

The aux power outlets never seem to work out for me - loose connections, lower amp rating, etc.

Thoughts?

I'm thinking about adding L-track to the exterior of my slide-in.

It's a 2" XPS composite shell with a FRP (fiber reinforced polymer) skin. The interior is being professionally built out. But while they have it, I would like to have L-track installed. If anything needs to be bolted through, now is the time to do it before cabinetry goes in.

Where would you add L-track to the exterior of the shell?

I'm thinking two tracks parallel to each other makes more sense than one, so I can cross web items like recover boards, camp chairs, etc.

So far I have two parallel tracks on the cab over wall, and two parallel tracks under the main side window - mimic on both sides of the camper.

I was thinking two or three parallel tracks on the back as well, either horizontal or vertical, for keeping things like a trasharoo, shovel, axe, etc within reach of the tailgate and camper door.

I'd like to have a mounting point for a tarp or Moonshade awning. But, even bolted through, I don't feel comfortable with wind putting pressure on a focused contact point like that directly on the foam panel. Maybe a track on the extruded aluminum frame would be better? Or just use one of those heavy duty vacuum suction cups (would that do less damage to the shell than tension on a surface mounted L-track?)

Open to other ideas.

I don't want to cover the camper in L-track, but a couple strategic placements could make my life must easier in the future, particularly when storage is at a minimum inside the camper!

The space is 24" W x 24" x ~~ H (I have about 80" of overhead clearance, so height is not the issue here)

I would like to put a chest-style 12/24V fridge in this location, but I cannot seem to find anything with decent capacity... I bought a BougeRV 23QT fridge on sale just to see how it works in the space (I needed a solution immediately, and it checked the box for the time being), but it's pretty low in capacity for longer trips. I saw they made a 30QT version with the sale footprint, just taller. But, figured I should see what other people might recommend instead. 30QT is also pretty small - it's my wife, myself, and an infant.

I'd prefer something 40L or greater in capacity; though I cannot find any fridges that are narrow/tall.

Anyone have a recommendation?

I've already checked Dometic, Engel, National Luna, ICECO, ARB - the brands I would like to purchase... But, not I feel like I'm just stuck with a smaller capacity, or exploring different brands that are new to the market.

EDIT: a 14x14x14" cube is about 45L (44.97) - internal dims, assuming 3" foam and internals for each side brings it to 20x20x20 - that doesn't seem that crazy... Pack in a compressor and make up that difference in height ~ 22"W X 22"L X 26"H - or something like that, idk. I cannot be the only person who needs a narrower/taller 12v fridge cooler option right?!

Using the Bluetti RV5 system to power my camper, I'm going to have a 10kWh battery bank, 5000W inverter, and 660W of solar.

I will be boondocking 99% of the time. Very rarely do we have a hookup available, and we do not travel with a generator.

I'm back and forth between just installing a slim profile 120V air conditioner, or a 24V unit...

120V:

+ better cooling (presumably)

+ easier install (* not needing 24V to 12V converters)

+ less amp draw on the DC side (RV5 has a 100A max output in 12V / 60A max output in 24V)

- will need the inverter running

- much higher power draws (almost 3X more than the 24V)

- will also need a soft-start installed, adding cost

24V:

+ better efficiency (almost 3X less power draw than the 120V)

+ smaller/lighter unit on the roof

+ longer run times due to efficiency

- less headroom on the DC side (120V unit would leave all 60A output available in 24V DC panel)

- slightly more complex (with the RV5 unit, I can configure in 24V output for DC loads, but then I would need 24-12V converters to run everything else in the camper [lights, fans, etc])

- presumably less cooling performance (lower BTUs compared to the 120V unit

I think I could run the 120V unit over night, but it would be a single day before I need a significant recharge on the system. Meanwhile, some of the 24V units I have seen are incredibly efficient, running down to 350W in some testing. I'd imagine the 24V unit will run longer to get the camper cooled down to the same level as the 120V, but will have longer run times on the 10kWh bank...

Just looking for advice/feedback from anyone who boondocks with a 120V unit, or anyone who has gone from one system to the other for a particular reason.

Added note: I live in Maryland - it gets VERY humid here, so factor that in. Cooling down the air in 90% humidity is much more difficult than 40% humidity...

Thanks!

I'm looking at impact guns - the immediate need is loosening an F-250 rear leaf spring hanger bolt. It's a new truck (~5K miles) so no rust, but there could be thread locker from the factory...

I own DCF850 for home projects (obviously no use bringing that up to my truck's frame here), just giving some context to where my tool inventory lies.

I have watched a ton of videos already, and the DCF891 seems like it would check MOST boxes for me around my house and garage - occasional tire rotations, etc. Some work on my 1025R small tractor, etc.

My only concern is whether the DCF891 would be strong enough for those leaf hanger bolts. Some documents read these should be 200ft-lbs, but could be closer to 600ft-lbs depending on the factory it came out of?

The DCF891 is rated to 800ft-lbs of breakaway, but am I getting close to questionable territory where I should just get the DCF900 instead?

The more powerful 900 seems to have a tendency to round sockets and wear the anvil more due to the higher power it outputs. For my infrequent use, maybe this isn't a concern. I would probably use the tool 3-4 times a year. Still, I'd rather buy the tool and do it myself than pay a shop to just loosen a bolt!

The only other thing to consider is the DCF891 is made in USA where the DCF900 is made in China - obviously would prefer to support domestic manufacturing if possible.

Thoughts??

I'm looking for a rooftop AC recommendation.

Will be using the Bluetti RV5 to power the system, which means I have a limited amount of DC draw (1,360W).

I've been looking at the Velit 2000R - 12V (~750W)

Ideally, I would love to install the 24V or 48V version of the Velit air conditioner, but Bluetti does not recommend wiring directly to the batteries (48V), and the 12-24V DC to DC converters I have found are not high enough amp to run the 24V unit.

Enter 120V options... I would consider a 120V unit, but it needs to be low profile. Ideally, whatever I install is under 9" so I can still fit under my garage door.

Overall system will be 10kWh (~852Ah @ 12V), so running the AC through the inverter doesn't bother me.

I think the Velit 2000R checks most boxes, if I can ensure my DC power draws don't exceed 1300W while it is running.

Open to recommendations here!