u/WannabeNymph

Here are my 18th century underpinnings, or at least the mock-ups of what I'm going to make.

Stays and shift are Simplicity 8579 in size 22. Next ones, maybe Augustas? They would have better straps.

Cap is made from the instructions on Art, beauty and well ordered chaos.

Pockets, no pattern, just winging it. My first embroidery, the rats. Unfortunately I used some cheap floss and ironed it too hot, so now parts of the rats are kinda hard and melted. So sad.

Frances rump from Scroop patterns, in the largest size and some pleats not pleated (wanted it to come further in the side and front, still not happy with it). Stuffed with polyfill, makes my butt sweat.

Tucked petticoat, no pattern, just took an old sheet, sewed it together and started pleating. It has a 2cm hem, 7x1cm pleats, 7cm pleat, 7x1cm pleats, 3.5cm pleat and 7x1cm pleats.

(Almost) all machine sewn, mostly out of old sheets and scraps. I am going to (mostly) machine sew the next ones, the real ones, just out of better (linen) fabrics. I'm not aiming for historical accuracy or even certain period of time, I just want to make pretty clothes. All skirts will be shorter than period like the petticoat is, because of my balance issues and other disabilities. Same with hand sewing, some I can do but not everything, because of disabilities and restrictions.

These stays are almost fully boned with zip ties, the next ones I'm trying cording with linen twine or cord. I want something breathable! Same with rump, I'm planning on making a different shape and filling with feather and down, or trying to maybe quilt a few layers of linen to a quilted puffer/petticoat instead. Light, breathable, actually usable. Any tips for that?

Stays: Two layers of linen herringbone twill treated with xanthan gum for structure layers and medium light linen in pink and black for fashion layers. Bound with black cotton twill tape and nearly fully boned with zip ties. I used black metal grommets.

Pink side with straps as the pattern instructed, which means that the straps only attach to the front panel and go through a belt loop in the back. My loops were not symmetrical and did not hold back up at all. Black side is pictured after I cut the straps, attached them to the back and laced through eyelets in front.

I started with the biggest size (22/EU48) and sized it up a bit but I think I ended up with slightly smaller outcome, maybe between the two biggest sizes. At first I thought they ended up a bit too small, but now they're already okayish and still adapting to my body.

Shift: horrible linen viscose blend that unravels when you look at it and does not hold pressing. Had to do the neckline three times, so it ended up too big and needed drawstring. I added cuffs to sleeves because they seemed too short, and they are held together with a bit of elastic on the inside.

These are wearable, finished mock-ups. I've already cut the shift in a better linen fabric. I'm considering changing the stays pattern and making the Augusta stays next. They have better straps at least. I feel like the shape would be better for me too.

These stays are not really wearable to me because of the amount of zip ties. I'm planning on trying a linen cord/twine as cording instead of boning. Something that truly breathes. What are the lightest, most breathable stays you've made?