
I may regret covering these stays in silk organza 🤡
These are the stays I’m making as the foundation for my fantasy Rococo-inspired Bride of Dracula costume for Halloween, and I’ve officially reached the “why did I do this to myself?” stage. 😂
I made the stays from 320 GSM cotton coutil and used plastic boning. The plastic was an experiment for me, partly out of curiosity and partly because of the cost. It has worked, but so far I think I still prefer synthetic whalebone.
For thread, I’m using Gütermann Sew-All for construction and Gütermann metallic thread for the decorative stitching.
Now I’m applying liquid silk organza over the stays, somewhat like the fashion fabric over the structured foundation of a robe de cour bodice.
And this organza is testing us.
Our first mistake was forgetting just how aggressively it frays. We remembered pretty quickly once the freshly cut edges started unraveling. 😂 Thankfully, I had left a full 1-inch seam allowance at both the top and bottom, so we had room to work with.
Once the fraying started, we decided to sew a very narrow seam around the edges to keep it under control.
Then we discovered the next problem: the organza moves CONSTANTLY.
When we tried zigzag stitching it, the machine sucked the fabric in. We ended up cutting a very narrow strip of coutil and putting it underneath the organza so the machine actually had something substantial to grab onto.
The next challenge is going to be attaching all of this slippery fabric smoothly over an already constructed, boned, three-dimensional pair of stays without introducing wrinkles or uneven tension.
And after we accomplish that, the organza and stays still have to be enclosed together with bias binding.
I low-key hate myself for deciding this was a good idea. 😆
But if it works, I think it’s going to be worth it.
For anyone who has mounted particularly lightweight or slippery fashion fabrics over stays or corsetry before, I’d love to hear what worked for you.