Not guides, not using protection like pickets etc.
From talking to groups that I see doing this, there is usually someone more experienced leading the other(s).
Do you think this method decreases the risk? Is there a time and a place for it?
Last week it was one of those two commercial fridges that are right next to each other. And today, a brand new garage door track right next to the panel.
When you feel a burning sensation, you should really get that checked out... Anyway, that's what my urologist told me.
And no, neither one of those circuits has a goddamn ground. The fridge USED to have a GFCI, but they got rid of it because it was tripping too much (hooray!)
I guess degeneracy just runs in the family....
To be fair, we haven't had the best volcano skimo season this year in Oregon and the last time I went out might have been a little questionable.
I've had these since about 2022 and they still ski (and hike) as good as the day I bought them.
Steel studs, plastic ceiling and 14 foot drop into the devil's lettuce
I understand that you don't have to always use the maximum fuse rating for an HVAC unit to work, but it's a bit odd to me that the "breaker" (does this mean max breaker?) rating is barely bigger than the required conductor ampacity, and yet the fuse rating is over 50% higher. What's the reason for this?
First off, I am an electrician and have installed miles of LED strips, but this is the very first RGBIC addressable led strip I have ever worked on or even used. Usually I do single color, either white or "neon" style colored strips. I'm obviously not a pro at soldering, but I've always been able to make things work and have had very few issues with any LED strips I've installed in the past. In fact, I'm usually surprised at just how tough they are, even when I've been less than accurate with the soldering iron or kinked them in a weird way.
This is the product I'm trying to install right now - 60 led version, and my length is about 100 feet. The use a 3 wire connection, with the center wire being data.
I bench tested the strips quite a bit and they worked great. After installing them though, they didn't work at all and I determined there was no continuity from the input on the data wire to the pcb. I cut the strip at the first cut point and soldered a new pigtail on and it worked after that. But, then I shifted the strips around a little to make up for the lost length, and it failed abiut 5 feet down from the end. This time it was both positive and negative that had no continuity, so I soldered jumpers across and it's now working, but I'm dreading trying to finish this install. It's especially aggravating because these strips have no adhesive, so I need to secure them well to avoid it looking like crap.
The point where it failed the second time looks like a spot where every couple meters they took a new peice of PCB and connected it to the last one with some thin wires. On single color strips, I don't ever remember seeing them done this way. I did pull on the strips a little, but not in an overly harsh manner and there was zero visible deformation anywhere in the areas that failed. They are in an extremely robust and thick silicone tube.
So, do you think these are shitty strips? Or, do I just need to be way more gentle with addressable RGB than the old fashioned kind? I'm just about ready to rip them all down and put the neon style strips up, but it's not easy to find colored strips that can do 100 feet in a row outdoors and I think the customer would enjoy the function of the RGB strips more if they work.
This meter can't go high enough to test between that tap and the A phase, so it's more than 600 volts. 831?
I suspect that landing the neutral on the center tap of the transformer would reduce the voltage on the extra taps, but that's not what the instructions imply you should do (they aren't very good.) I'm taping them off for now to prevent accidental contact.
At any rate, be aware of this hazard if you work near control transformers. The highest voltage in this panel is 277v to ground, but I think this would still happen with 120 volts incoming if you use this transformer because the input windings are all connected. I was sloppy and brushed against it with the back of my gloved hand very gently reaching for a 24 volt wire nearby, won't forget that any time soon.