Hello everyone! Apologies for some lack of info and if I’m in the wrong subreddit - please let me know if this Q should be directed elsewhere!

This is my boyfriend’s sign that he absolutely CHERISHES and we sadly broke one of the letters on during moving last month. He was pretty upset, so now I’m making it my mission to get it fixed up for him and hang up in our living room as a surprise.

I’ve called every LED repair shop known to the area of Jacksonville, FL, and nowhere can fix it. Maybe it’s just not possible, but does everyone agree this isn’t fixable? Or should I keep plugging along and trying? You’ll see the “K” on the bottom is missing from the word “Walker”. I have all the missing pieces.

What other information does everyone need? Anything is much appreciated. Thank you all in advance!

No details in spec or no other picture available for this brand. What are the three output ports label. How to connect two 5m strips to this. Thanks

Hi,

Just purchased marquee lights (LED). They came with very limited information.

Can someone help with the setup?

I’ve followed the limited instructions and nothing worked.

The power box does light up green and turns on when connected to power. The wiring has been connected to the corresponding units but doesn’t seem to work.

Thank you

So I’m trying to follow instructions found online but can’t seem to work it out. I’ve soldered copper wire to a switch which then runs to a housing for a cast iron magnet. In the other magnet housing I have copper wire running from the magnet to three 1.5V button batteries. I connect either end of the SMD LED wire to either magnet to test if it will light and it won’t. I’ve used the magnets in different positioning. Tried connecting the LeD directly to the copper wires. I’ve switched the batteries around back to front. I’ve used different LeDs. I’m a complete noob so pls don’t judge and thanks in advanced.

Long time Reader of this (and many other) ESP32 groups but first time posting my own project

Been building something I'm pretty excited about and wanted to share with this community.

Pixel Panel will be an open-source, fully offline WS2812B LED controller built around the ESP32-CYD (Cheap Yellow Display V3 [Dual USB]). No Wi-Fi, no app, no cloud, no phone required!! — just a beautiful 2.8" touchscreen that gives you instant control over up to 2000 addressable LEDs. 27 animation modes, dual auxiliary relay output, brightness control, auto-off timer, PIN-locked config, and a screen saver to prevent burn-in. Everything runs locally on the device.

Perfect for anywhere WLED fails, Pixel Panel wins:

• Car interior — no WiFi, no hotspot needed, just 12V and a USB adapter. WLED needs a phone nearby
• Kids room — no WiFi dependency, no app for kids to break, physical touchscreen they can actually use
• Outdoor / garden — shed, gazebo, pergola — anywhere without a router nearby
• Bedside table — tap the screen half asleep, no phone, no app loading, no "reconnecting..."
• Airbnb / rental property — guests just tap the screen, nothing to explain, nothing to break
• Bar / venue — staff tap the screen, no phones out, no network to configure
• Caravan / campervan / boat — completely off-grid capable
• Workshop / garage — gloves on, big touchscreen buttons, no fiddling with a phone

Along with that is its Pixel Panel Puppet...!

The wireless expansion unit. It's a small headless ESP32 (LOLIN S2 Mini or C3 Super Mini) that listens for ESP-NOW broadcasts from the Pixel Panel master and mirrors the same animations on its own locally connected LED strip — no wiring between units, no router, no pairing.

Add as many Puppet units as you need, each driving up to 4 strips independently. One touchscreen controls everything, simultaneously, across any number of rooms. You can also have multiple Pixel Panels each set to its own zone with its own puppets!

Both projects will be open-source on GitHub very soon. Firmware, wiring diagrams, and full setup guides included.

Happy to answer questions in the comments — what else would you want to see in a controller like this?

How many red, white and blue LEDs can you light up with 250 coins?

Alex Dainis built a battery using 250 coins, electrolyte-soaked paper towels, and parafilm, generating an impressive 18 volts. But high voltage isn't everything. The long battery also had so much internal resistance that it couldn't deliver enough current to light an LED. By splitting it into several smaller batteries, each producing about 3 volts, she reduced that resistance enough to light all three LEDs.

Hey everyone, I've had this light strip up for awhile and it goes all the way around the room. I was hoping there's something opaque that I could put over them so each individually light bleeds into one another like a continuous light all the way around the room, instead of seeing each bulb. Any ideas?

Is it common practice to reduce the distance between the LED strips and the diffuser, as shown below?

As of time being the project is in its early phase of its planning. Let of details of final implementation need to be decided. All hardware purchases need to be made. Few further pictures (current state prior to placing LED-technology in fixture) in comments to this OP.

I want to carry out a radical retrofit—meaning I’ve removed everything associated with the T8 G13 fluorescent tube technology from the first of three fixtures—and replace it with LED strip technology. Several questions have arisen during the planning phase, but for now, I want to address the following point.

The fixture is nearly empty; only the rocker switch and the GST18 connectors remain (where power enters and is passed on to the next fixture in the chain). The simplest mounting method would be to stick the strip directly to the bottom of the fixture housing. However, the side of the fixture containing the switch would then block light from spreading toward the front edge of the kitchen countertop. This is because the transparent plastic housing—which acts as a diffuser—faces the wall beneath the overhead cabinet.
Hence my idea to reduce the distance between the LEDs and the plastic cover by using a U-profile, attached (via adhesive or another method) to the top inner surface of the fixture using one of the U-profile's side flanges (rather than its base). I’ll likely need to leave a small gap between the LEDs and the diffuser to allow for some heat circulation.

I have standard rivets and a riveting tool available. However, I haven't yet checked whether the thickness of the rivet assembly fits the project's constraints—the fixture needs to sit flush against the underside of the overhead cabinet to which it is mounted. Therefore, if I were to use adhesive to attach the U-profile to the fixture housing, the adhesive would need to effectively conduct heat to the fixture's metal casing.

Looking for suggestions on how to get a diffuse coating on WS2811 LED’s like the ones on pebble lights
I’m interested in making my own PCB with the LEDs in a pattern, but am looking for the diffuse look (and environmental protection).

Anyone have any suggestions?

UV cures are acceptable, I have UV sources.

Sharing a quick behind-the-scenes look at how outdoor LED display cabinets are tested for weather resistance before deployment.Because these are lightweight rental panels, the die-cast aluminum cabinets are thinner than standard fixed installations. The main engineering challenge here is ensuring the rubber gaskets and waterproof seals around the modules and power boxes can withstand heavy, direct water pressure (simulating extreme weather on an outdoor stage) without compromising the thin profile.Always satisfying to watch the water test process! What’s the worst weather your AV gear has survived?

I'm new to LEDs and have been trying to create a matrix that I can see through for cosplay. The idea is to use strips to create rows of lights, then control them with code from an Arduino Nano. Despite trying several different programs for testing, I haven't been able to get the LED strip to respond to my code, though I have gotten LEDs to light up via manipulating the power wires.

I've provided photos of my setup as well as my attempt at a diagram in case the photos were hard to follow.

Parts:

• 5V 120 LED strip: https://www.ledlightinghut.com/ws2812c-2020-digital-rgb-led-strip.html
• Arduino Nano: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C947BHK5?lv=shuf&social_share=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_Z17E8X52XFJZQ348P8H4&channelId=751&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_Z17E8X52XFJZQ348P8H4&plpRedirect=mhFallback&th=1
• Logic level converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFMLDYNY?lv=shuf&social_share=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KGY61XDVCECEZQPCDTT3&channelId=751&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KGY61XDVCECEZQPCDTT3&plpRedirect=mhFallback
• 5V Battery: amazon.com/dp/B09QCXR8D4?lv=shuf&social_share=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_1KJM44A58B6R277ZZSN5&channelId=751&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_1KJM44A58B6R277ZZSN5&plpRedirect=mhFallback
• Capacitor: 50V, 470 μF
• Wire connectors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYCSYTB3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
• USB power cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GBGV9C4G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

The code I'm using should cause the first light to turn red, but I've also tried the example code provided by Adafruit.

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>


#define LED_PIN D2
#define LED_COUNT 120


Adafruit_NeoPixel strip(LED_COUNT, LED_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);


void setup() {
  strip.begin();
  strip.clear();


  
  strip.setPixelColor(50, 255, 0, 0);
  


  strip.show();
}


void loop() {
}

Is there anything I could do to resolve the issue?

I guess it is part of the design but I am rather interested in knowledge why is it happening.
It is cylindrical outdoor lantern with white/rgb running lights. The point is if I can rebuild it to lightning even when charging

All information I know is in the video

I have bought these 4 meter led strip that fits under the trunk rubber seals and it takes power directly from the original trunk light plug( uses something similar to tiny banana plugs that leech on the plug) when I powered them only a meter or so powered on, as i was adjusting the rubber seal to make it uniform a little bit more lit up what could be the issue, not enough power or its the soldering inside is corroded