r/led

so I have an old light up purse. It has two modules glued inside. One stopped working 2 years ago even with new batteries, the other died too last night. I want to replace them with new lights but I'm not sure what to buy because of course the top would have to screw into the bottom, but I can't find this exact module for sale (does 2019-3-5 mean anything? does it matter?). I don't think the bottoms can be removed without seriously damaging the purse so I need to find something that fits.

Hey all! You might have seen some things about this project before, but I would love to highlight it once again. For the non-professional, tinkerer, DIY geek or Christmas nerd, this node is a game-changer! Ive been working on this project for the past year, and Ive finally settled on a software and hardware package that can rival some of the more expensive Artnet controllers. With a hardware revision that now supports resettable fuses, variable input voltage, hot-swappable plugs, and reverse polarity protection, I am more than confident that the node will appeal to LED-strip enthusiasts out there!

So, in short, what does it do?
- 16 universes over 4 outputs, so 2700+ RGB leds in total!
- Support for WS2812 type (800khz) and SPI driven leds (SK9822, apa102), so basically any LED-type on the market!
- RGB, RGBW, and RGBAW colour arrangement support
- Ethernet and wifi capable
- Integrated power distribution up to 5A per output and 20A total
- With a 5~24v variable input, this means almost 500W of power!
- OLED display for status updates
- Hardware button to change between different modes (DHCP, Static IP, Static colour, Test pattern)
- But, most importantly, completely open source! Every piece of the software and hardware design is available for you to tinker with!

Now, let me know if you have any questions about this project! Before I see comments about WLED: Yes, WLED does artnet and SACN, but performance is worse at a maximum of ~9 universes, and IMO WLED setup is a lot more complicated. This node is straight to the point and ready to use with Artnet out of the box!

Also, no, sadly, the node does not support SACN. I know, I will try to get this to the node in a future update!

Now, if you are excited, check out the GitHub! https://github.com/mdethmers/ESP32-Artnet-Node-receiver/tree/main

Or some of the videos I've made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VEiUzfDK_s&t=1s

edit; sACN should be very easy to add to the controller. ill investigate if this can be something on the short term!

Hello everyone. I wanted to show off my latest DIY design. Let me know what you think about it.

I have been experimenting with translucent filament and have come up with a print sequence that achieves great light diffusion. I have took a lot of inspiration from LGP panels used in monitor backlights which are used to dissipate a localized light input evenly. I followed up on this finding to design a desk lamp that I think is very unique.

The design uses an ESP32, 8x8 LED matrix, a female USB-C connector, and some cables. The lamp is simply powered through a generic 5V phone charger as there are not many LED's. The software is WLED, which allows for control over WIFI and application of many readily available effects.

You can also make it too! I have documented the process and posted the print files on Maker World as a contest entry. Also the design is parametric, you can simply modify the design on your browser to modify to fit any LED matrix you have 5x5, 16x16, 8x16 etc.

If you liked what i did please consider showing some love in my Maker World post so more people can see my design and make it for themselves.

Hello all, light went out in the dining room. Took of the lights it self and found this 2.4 LED Driver, from the driver it has three separate routes. Any one know where I can find this same part? Google hasn’t been helpful. Posted this link not sure if this light
Fixture had its own unique led driver.

https://ledlights.io/products/led-driver-power-supply-ceiling-driver-24w-36w-220v-round-driver-lighting-transform-for-led-downlights-lights-spot-led?currency=USD&country=US&variant=41261524811954&utm\_source=google&utm\_medium=cpc&utm\_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=eb2c1e53370d&utm\_source=google&utm\_campaign=1912606057&utm\_content=349788670014&utm\_term=&utm\_matchtype=&utm\_network=g&utm\_locationint=&utm\_locationnow=9004424&utm\_device=m&utm\_devicemodel=&utm\_issearch=%5Bsearchnet%5D&utm\_mobile=%5Bmobileyes%5D&utm\_target=pla-296081538182&utm\_extention=&utm\_adtype=pla\_with\_promotion&utm\_product=shopify\_US\_7118018969778\_41261524811954&utm\_channel=online&gad\_source=1&gad\_campaignid=1912606057&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rrQBhBuEiwAarLWHUvMs\_Qu\_3yA6K3zehA2hE69dcdZCo-YsBaZ0P6UGeLa7I6G85qeEhoCf9MQAvD\_BwE

Hello,

Im new to electronics and i want to make a diy lamp. I got a question as on the website this LED BOARD its just advertised as SMD 5730 DC 5V. How can i connect it to a reliable power supply without any problems, preferably through USB port. As connecting it straight to a 5V usb cable is not the best option according to google. Thank you!

They’ve been purple for ages, then I changed the color to red for fun and they began to flash. Upon putting them back on purple they began to flash white on and off. No clue what the issue is. Not even the power button on the remote turns them off.

Hi folks 💕 can someone explain to me why kind of all LED lights that I own (doesn’t matter expensive or cheap as f*ck) flicker at 120 FPS in my iPhone camera like crazy (atleast if dimmed).

Some do even flicker or cause rolling bands of light and shadows on screen on 60 FPS, 30 FPS and some even on 24 FPS.

I don’t see the flickering with my own eyes, but since I’m a very photosensitive person who suffers from migraines and eye-migraines, light literally hurts my eyes if it’s brighter than dusk or dawn. My pupils are naturally always
more dilated than average - police and doctors sometimes ask me if i am on drugs, even tho I am not - annoying to be honest. I am concerned that this (for me invisible flicker), may cause migraines or other problems? 😣

I’ve read, that even when we don’t consciously notice it, our brain does and our iris-muscles contract in spasmic rhythms? ⚪️💃🕺⚪️

Can someone explain to me why even all the flicker free marketed LEDs I own all flicker (atleast slightly or sometimes violently) at 120 FPS and sometimes at lower FPS?

Hope my question isn’t too dumb, but ChatGPTs answers and Google search finds are kind of to vague - or I for some reason can’t comprehend it enough that I am satisfied or comforted. 🥸

Camera used: iPhone 16 Pro Max

~~~

English isn’t my first language - so I apologize if my wording is strange. 😵‍💫

Gledopto 618WL-4 channel WLED controller, 200W 40A 5V Power Supply. Narrow (8mm) SK6812 5050SMD LED Strips, Black Flexible Silicone LED profiles, 6-way fuse box with 10A fuses, 18AWG cable, 12AWG cable, 22AWG 3-wire cable, 3-wire power cable with a power plug, bunch of connectors and cable lugs .. and a lot of patience with the silicone profiles
By EvisHomeLab

Hey, I have a BTF-Lighting FCOB RGBCCT WS2811 840LEDs/m 24V strip installed on my shelf. I have a second 140cm strip stuck to the back of my desk below. Both strips have exposed copper pads on the ends and I want the bottom desk strip to be lit up The gap between them is roughly 50-70 cm I can confirm if needed I have a BTF connector kit with strip-to-strip connectors and some wired connectors with JST plugs. What’s the easiest way to bridge the gap between the two strips without soldering and without buying anything new if possible? Or if I i do have to buy something let me know what it is thanks a lot

After sharing my first version of this DIY LED camera light, I got a lot of useful feedback — especially pointing out concerns around the battery setup and safety.
At first, I thought the system was “good enough” since it worked and powered the light without issues.
But after digging deeper into how lithium packs behave under continuous load + charge, I realized the original design had a weak point:
the power system was too rigid and not properly protected.
So I rebuilt it.

# What I changed：

1. Added a proper BMS (Battery Management System)
2. Replaced fixed battery pack with 3 × swappable 18650 cells
3. Reworked the power path to support safer charge/discharge behavior
4. Designed it so the battery system is now modular and replaceable

# What I learned the hard way:

1. The biggest issue wasn’t performance — it was maintenance and safety over time.
2. A fixed pack might be fine in a controlled product, but for a DIY / experimental build:
3. hard to replace cells
4. harder to monitor cell health
5. less flexibility in real use scenarios
6. Switching to 18650 cells made the system feel much closer to how “real” portable lighting products are engineered.

# Current use case:
Still a compact LED light for photography / video work, powered entirely by battery (no external PSU during use).

# Questions for people who know this better than me:

1. Does this BMS setup look reasonable for continuous use？I’m also planning to fully encapsulate the electronics using a high-temperature (around 200°C rated) silicone potting compound for protection. Would that raise any concerns regarding heat dissipation or long-term reliability?
2. Anything I should still worry about in this architecture?
3. Would you trust a setup like this in field use (not studio)?

So, the first image is the effect i want to re-create, the rest are the spaces my constructor has left. It's my thing so he's like go pick whatever profile you want ... i have a few in mind but curious what you all think a good profile is.

Image 1 = desired affect
Image 2 = the real space
Image 3 = profile option 1
Image 4 = profile option 2
Image 5 = option 3
Image 6 = option 4

Plus any other suggestions! In terms of the 'gap area, my construtor will make ammends if needed. At the moments it about 4cm wide by 5cm deep