u/YoshitoSakurai

Hey i had an issue recently trying to find a suitable nozzle wiper.
I found a place i could attach it to. I designed my own "module" that makes use of a little hole on the right frame side besides the bearing. The module allows me to attach things like a nozzle wiper, or purge bucket or both etc. Anyone knows what it's used for? If i had to make an educated guess it would be for holding the part on a hook for powder coating or something.

If anyone wonders, I model my own Nozzle wiper brushes and pour them out of High temp resistant Silicone. They are quite soft and flexible but after a few days of "curing" in the air they become pretty rigid and wipe nicely.

https://preview.redd.it/arh57p0uaiah1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1cc7f544b616ea5914ce558a87c246d513dd9ad3

https://preview.redd.it/fuurap0uaiah1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87b75a624b8a68d80983f69eb0887a5f360a3171

Hello people this isn't really about playing but about something a bit practical,
I'm almost 7ft tall or 210CM (Yes I'm Dutch).

I've had an upright piano for about 7 years now, but every time i play it i basically break my back due to the position i have to play in. I want my arms to be straight so i can play comfortable so i basically slouch over a lot. This caused me to basically neglect it a bit, and to neglect practice. Playing only a few times a month.

I've finally found resolution to fix it. I have to raise it by about 10CM or 4 inches. Are there any ways to do it other then sticking a 2x4 under it and it looking ugly? Id rather buy a solution then making it myself due to some time constraints around my schedule. But if i cant get around to it so be it. I had people tell me to just put my seat higher. But as I go up by upper legs will still hit the piano. To not do so I have to move my chair back an obscene amount and at that point my posture is wrecked again.

If anyone has any tricks/tips etc it would be greatly appreciated. My pedals are unfortunately stationary so I cant lower those. I just have to learn how to play with them as is when raised. I might have to research if they make piano's for tall people but it'll probably cost me an arm and a leg. At least I'll be shorter then.

I recently picked up an Ender 5 Plus for next to nothing and have been slowly bringing it back to life.

So far my Ender 3 Pro has been printing upgrade parts for it. The X-axis belt tensioner completely eliminated the layer shifts I was getting above 100 mm/s, and as I'm writing this the Y-axis tensioners are printing.

I've also checked the lead screws and printed a pair of top bearing supports. Those let me mechanically square the bed to the frame, since I noticed one side of the bed sagged slightly more than the other when the motors were disabled. I now use what is basically a mechanical G34: the bed references itself against fixed frame stops at a distance equal to my Z offset, so every print starts from the same position.

I exclusively use hardened steel nozzles, and occasionally a ruby-tipped nozzle from my Ender 3 Pro, so nozzle wear is essentially a non-issue.

The only problem I still have is nozzle ooze. While the hotend is heating, a small blob forms inside the direct drive extruder and slowly oozes out. During the move from the purge line to the start of the print, that blob sometimes lands on the first layer. It can ruin the first few brim loops or even snag the nozzle and cause a layer one failure.

On my Ender 3 Pro I solved this by designing and printing my own nozzle wiper. That printer has reached its "retirement" phase. It just works, so I don't really want to modify it anymore. I'd like to achieve the same level of reliability with the Ender 5 Plus while I wait for the parts to convert it to CoreXY and Klipper.

I've searched around quite a bit but haven't found a nozzle wiper design that I really like for a stock Ender 5 Plus.

My ideal solution would:

• permanently mount to the printer
• not reduce the usable build volume
• not require flipping an arm in or out before each print
• optionally use electronics if that makes for a cleaner solution

If I can't find something suitable I'll probably design one myself, but I'd rather not reinvent the wheel if someone has already come up with a clever solution.

# So my question is:

Does anyone have a nozzle wiper design for a stock Ender 5 Plus that is practical, compact, and preserves the full build area? Photos, STL files, or even your own custom designs would all be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone,

I recently bought an Ender 5 Plus second hand and I would like to move it over to Marlin 2.1.x, similar to what I have done with my Ender 3 Pro, which is running a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 board.

The issue I am running into is the stock Creality touchscreen. From what I understand, the touchscreen does not work properly with a standard Marlin setup and is mainly designed around Creality's own firmware ecosystem.

I have been looking into replacing it with a normal Marlin compatible display, but I have not found a straightforward solution. Most options seem to require either extensive rewiring/soldering, adapters, or replacing the motherboard entirely.

I currently have the Creality V4.2.2 motherboard installed. From what I have gathered, the board itself is perfectly capable of running Marlin 2.1.x, so the main problem appears to be finding a suitable display solution.

I was looking into using an Ender 3 Pro style 12864 LCD, since I already have experience with that setup, but apparently the connectors are not directly compatible. Although the LCD connector looks similar, the pinout is different between the boards, so it is not simply a plug and play conversion.

The Ender 5 Plus is my secondary printer, so I would prefer not to spend too much money on upgrades. However, I would like to get away from the limitations of the stock Creality firmware and have the flexibility of a proper Marlin 2.1.x setup.

Has anyone successfully converted an Ender 5 Plus with the stock V4.2.2 motherboard to Marlin 2.1.x while keeping the original board?

Are there any recommended displays, adapters, or wiring guides that would make this possible without replacing the motherboard?

Alternatively, should I just bite the bullet and replace the board entirely with a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 together with a BIGTREETECH MINI12864 V2.0 LCD Screen and call it a day?

I know that combination would make the Marlin setup much easier and give more room for future upgrades, but since this is my secondary machine I am unsure whether the extra cost is justified compared to keeping the V4.2.2 board.

Would the SKR Mini E3 V3 + MINI12864 combination be the recommended route, or is there a simpler and cheaper way to get a proper Marlin 2.1.x setup running on the Ender 5 Plus? As far as i remember, the only thing that i would have to do (other then compiling my own firmware that i also do on my ender 3) is add a JST connector to one of the fans.

Any advice, firmware examples, wiring diagrams, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for a Creality Spider V2 hotend, new or used.

If used, I don't need it in "as new" condition.
I don't care for the Hot end silicone sock, heater cartridge, thermistor or the nozzle.

What I do require is the unit to be undamaged minus the previously mentioned components..
If the heating block is a bit dirty due to plastic that's fine I can clean it as long as it isn't marred/damaged. Screw hole bores should be undamaged as-well (not over-tightened before). Original packaging not required.

Price is a guidance number, if you need want to discuss otherwise, I'll hear from you.
Thank you.

Hello peeps,

I'm used to working with my Ender 3 Pro, and over the years I've compiled multiple custom firmware versions for it with practically every Marlin release.

I'm now looking at an Ender 5 Plus and I'm trying to understand how similar the firmware setup is.

The Ender 5 Plus has a touchscreen, and from what I can tell, that display may need its own firmware updates whenever new functions, menus, or graphics are added. Am I correct in assuming that?

With the Ender 3, everything was fairly straightforward. The display was essentially "dumb" and simply showed whatever the motherboard firmware outputted after flashing a new version of Marlin.

Does the Ender 5 Plus work differently? If I update Marlin on the motherboard, do I also need to update the touchscreen firmware separately, or does it automatically use the information provided by the mainboard firmware?

If anyone has experience with the Ender 5 Plus and could clarify this for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!