r/ender5plus

Hot end clog

I've had an Ender 5 Plus for a couple of years and now after getting the print settings dialed in it is now starting to clog after an hour or so into a print...

It was all original parts at this stage.

I removed the bowden tube from the hotend and it was clogged with melted PLA.

I bought a replacement hotend from Amazon that had a new heater, thermistor, bowden tube nozzle etc. This was all connected when it arrived so I bolted it on, fed some filament, leveled the bed, set the z offset etc.. it all seemed OK.

Then about 90 minutes in, it clogged and stopped extruding.

I opened a new filament before replacing the hotend.

The first layer prints at 210c and then goes down to 200c for the remainder.

The print looks good until it just stops coming out of the nozzle.

I then removed the clog, cleaned the nozzle, replaced the bowden tube.. PLA was feeding and coming out OK. But then after almost 2 hours in to a print it clogs again.

It is currently winter in Australia so ambient temp in the room is about 16c.

Is there something I am missing?

TLDR: ive replaced everything on the hotend, extruder, bowden tube, filament. Still clogging after 1-2 hours printing.

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u/InfiltraitorX — 2 days ago

What to do

I bought a ender plus a few years ago and never could get it to print right. I tried multiple different setting and leveled the bed a millions times. I gave up on it for a long time and I’m just getting back into wanting to 3d printer. I bought a newer Bambu and had really good luck but I really want to fix up the ender to make big builds. My question is it worth fighting thru the problems or trashing it.

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u/Angryspork180 — 3 days ago

Ender 5 Plus (stock setup) Nozzle wiper

I recently picked up an Ender 5 Plus for next to nothing and have been slowly bringing it back to life.

So far my Ender 3 Pro has been printing upgrade parts for it. The X-axis belt tensioner completely eliminated the layer shifts I was getting above 100 mm/s, and as I'm writing this the Y-axis tensioners are printing.

I've also checked the lead screws and printed a pair of top bearing supports. Those let me mechanically square the bed to the frame, since I noticed one side of the bed sagged slightly more than the other when the motors were disabled. I now use what is basically a mechanical G34: the bed references itself against fixed frame stops at a distance equal to my Z offset, so every print starts from the same position.

I exclusively use hardened steel nozzles, and occasionally a ruby-tipped nozzle from my Ender 3 Pro, so nozzle wear is essentially a non-issue.

The only problem I still have is nozzle ooze. While the hotend is heating, a small blob forms inside the direct drive extruder and slowly oozes out. During the move from the purge line to the start of the print, that blob sometimes lands on the first layer. It can ruin the first few brim loops or even snag the nozzle and cause a layer one failure.

On my Ender 3 Pro I solved this by designing and printing my own nozzle wiper. That printer has reached its "retirement" phase. It just works, so I don't really want to modify it anymore. I'd like to achieve the same level of reliability with the Ender 5 Plus while I wait for the parts to convert it to CoreXY and Klipper.

I've searched around quite a bit but haven't found a nozzle wiper design that I really like for a stock Ender 5 Plus.

My ideal solution would:

  • permanently mount to the printer
  • not reduce the usable build volume
  • not require flipping an arm in or out before each print
  • optionally use electronics if that makes for a cleaner solution

If I can't find something suitable I'll probably design one myself, but I'd rather not reinvent the wheel if someone has already come up with a clever solution.

# So my question is:

Does anyone have a nozzle wiper design for a stock Ender 5 Plus that is practical, compact, and preserves the full build area? Photos, STL files, or even your own custom designs would all be greatly appreciated.

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u/YoshitoSakurai — 9 days ago

Mercury One.1 motors

Hey

Sourcing hardware to convert my E5P

BOM have links to motors, but they are not showing any products.

What motor should I look for? Preferably AliExpress.

Chasing speed and heat tolerance for enclosure.

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u/Nord243 — 6 days ago

One corner is shorter/taller then the others?

so im printing some gridfinity baseplates and ive noticed that one corner is taller then the others and after measuring with a calipers one corner is 8mm~ whilst the others are 6 mms. I suspected warping but the bottom layer isnt pealing from the build plate so it must be something else. Anyone got any ideas?

Im using esun pla plus with orca slicer and a stock ender 5 plus.

I printed at 215celcius , 7 mm retraction at 60mm/s , print speed is 60mm/s,with combing on

u/aliyyanimates — 10 days ago

Can someone help?

im fairly new to 3d printing and recently these really thin white strings started appearing on my 3d prints(I’ve attached image).

Im using esun pla plus with orca slicer and a stock ender 5 plus.

here is what ive tried

-increasing retraction

-zhop

-increasing travel speed

-drying my filaments for 6-8 hours

-tested different temperatures form 190-230

-used another roll of filament

Im worried its something wrong with my printer or it might just be tue filamen. any help is appreciated

u/aliyyanimates — 11 days ago

Ender5 Plus over mini-USB to Linux (Ubuntu). Just get CuraSlicer.

Don’t nuke it like I did and try to follow 4+ year old blog posts about installing Printrun (Pronterface) and 30 permutations of installing OrcaSlicer and odd libraries. It won’t work.

CuraSlicer supports USB out of the box and was the last slicer and app I tried after doing all the others and googling the wrong thing apparently. If you stumbled on this post, download the app image, chmod it to +x, run it as ./ and it will install.

Did install PrusaSlicer over flatpak and that ran well, and did not try it, but you can send gcodes to the printer over USB on PrusaSlicer but do not see an option to send or monitor gcodes.

And no, no windows laptop option for me. I know Pronterface works well over USB on COM3. Only laptop I have to use as full time plugged into the Ender5 Plus is an old 2017 MacBook that runs great with Ubuntu on it.

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u/Probably-Important — 10 days ago
▲ 2 r/ender5plus+1 crossposts

Anyone running DGUS reloaded on a stock Ender 5 Plus screen?

Is anyone here currently running DGUS Reloaded on a stock E5+ screen? If so, which repo/release are you using for the DWIN_SET folder, and did you have to tweak anything special in Configuration.h / Configuration_adv.h?”

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u/EducationalEmploy601 — 11 days ago

Hig tree tech help

I put an e3v3.0 board and a 3.0.1 screen in my ender 5 plus. And I can't find firmware. I found 1 through dremc that wouldn't register the printer so I flashed the screen witch was apparently supposed to fix it (didn't work) . Then I grabbed firmware through the big tree tech's github page but they were all for normal e5's or an e5 pro and I haven't managed to successfully fix the dimensions I tried compiling my own and got sick of trial and error after it not working correctly like 5 times if anyone has the firmware or knows how to fix the dementions please let me know if been trying to figure it out with Claude and chat gpt and haven't gotten anywhere

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u/Any-Minimum-4821 — 14 days ago