u/ZealousidealDeer4531

Hey guys I’m moving from Bali to Margaret river , it’s cold as shit do you guys have any recommendations for wetsuits . I havnt surfed in anything apart from boars shorts and singlets , does a steamer impact your movement?.

So I was surfing yesterday in Kuta and it was decent size with some double overhead sets coming through. I have not surfed in 4 months but did the day before in the same conditions . I have only surfed for 2.5 years but for some reason I’m better in bigger conditions. So I had been surfing a couple of hours and catching some great waves and was comfortable, I always take note in good size if I’m good with the hold downs and not panicking . Anyway tide hit high and the rips got worse and the waves jacked up more , a big one rolled in so I ditched my board . This is something i never do no matter how big and it snapped my brand new heavy duty leash. Because my fitness was shit I nearly drowned , as it was like 5 wave set But there was one other dude out there so I swum out to him . He gave me his board and swum in , I told him he should take the board I can ride it out and ask someone to send s boat from Kuta teef and il pay . Dude would not take no for an answer. Fucken amazing human being, anyway , my wife was on the beech and as soon as she saw my board she got the life guard s to get the JetSki out . If your in Bali also don’t take no for an answer a lot of life guards wouldn’t help because of the conditions , but they have jet skis and we know this so perseverance is key . She knows I’m ok in big surf and she knows I’m in trouble without my board. So I’m chilling miles out the back and the JetSki grabs me and gets me in , shout out to those dudes to . The guy who saved my ass didn’t end up having to do anything , but I had 2 people on it thank god . This is just a reminder of how dangerous the ocean is , it’s the second time I thought I was going to die out there . Know your limits and things can change fast and I was fine till I wasn’t and then I was in the most trouble I have ever been in. Also a shout out to the wild man that gave me his board, he was out to save my life and there was no failure in this dude .