Repost. Found birthday card, cash and surf towel. Addressed to Luke from Mom and Bud, on June 5th near Goldfinch and Fort Stockton Drive in Mission Hills.
Also reposted on Facebook and Nextdoor.
It all started very innocent. I can’t remember who and when recommended me a book to read “Barbarian Days” (I think I don’y have to explain any details about the book here..)
This led me to taking a few surfing lessons on Madeira island. Catching a few waves on a foamy was super exciting. I got hooked on already.
Continued on hardboard in Indonesia, on and off, with many injuries along the way (turf toe, bit torn intercostal muscle, rib cage massive bruises, left lateral issues.. to name a few)
So I read the book for the second time with more in depth understanding. Started to target my workouts to be more aligned with surfing.
Fast forward to today, I am in the ocean 5 times a week on a midlength, 2-3 hours per session,
After each session I have that blissful feeling of calmness, relaxation and crystal clear state of mind. For sure this is mixture of all these neurotransmitters and endorphins. To me it feels different than running a marathon (I run one, 4:13)
Sometimes it lasts for 2hours sometimes for entire day. Are these the ocean minerals that soak my body? Are these high amplitude waves that gently swings me?
This led me to comprehension why certain an ancient cultures around Polynesia associated surfing with something spiritual experience.
I don’t know what it is but my brain just keeps whispering “let’s do that again” 😎
Beginner surfer and want to purchase my first longboard. Mostly will be in Delaware and North Carolina for reference. I am 5’11 185# male and 55 years old.
Considering a foamie after reading some posts as a good place to start and looking for some suggestions.
I have also read great things about the Surftech 9’6 Mega Magic Fusion, but don’t know if overkill.
Any suggestions appreciated. I have ridden SUP’s and have done wake surfing behind a boat.
I will have a twin room accomodation with outside WC. I am a bit lost thinking what to bring as I want to fly with just a backpack. Is cold there in August?
I also do not know what to expect from this experience. I think it will be very challenging for me. But I want to try.
If anyone has already been in the same camp please share you experience.
If anyone has been in ericiera for 2 weeks of surf please share your experience.
In general, I would love to read your comments and take notes
At some point I am so far to the green part that going towards the white water means I’m moving directly into the path of a surfer.
There simply HAS to be a threshold where it’s better to evade towards the green wave. When I’m right on the edge I try to look what the surfer does but sometimes the indecision means “we” fuck up.
Of course the experienced surfer blames me “always go to the white water, can’t go wrong!” But I feel like it simply can’t always be the right choice. He was just annoyed and worried about the collision and we were fine, but still I don’t want to be that annoying beginner. I need a clearer rule in these cases.
Hi, few days ago I bought online my first board, a 9' softboard, the guy was selling the board as new, announce pics shows her still inside the plastic, now he sent a message saying that while preparing the package he found some bumps on the board but that's fine cause it's a softboard
Looks like a scam to me, cause the price was good (260 eur), I guess I already know the answer, but I'm going to ask anyway, thanks for the help
Update: I decided to not buy, thanks for the help guys
Going to be staying in windansea hotel in La Jolla, San Diego from Australia and wondering where would be a good recommendation to surf around there. I am a beginner/intermediate surfer, not that good but have been surfing a fair amount. I have heard San Diego has lots of stingrays, any beaches where I could avoid that, if not doesn’t matter, thanks guys - (repost because it got deleted from r/surfing)
Noticed it after I got out of the water. It’s a new wetsuit so surely it hasn’t broken 😅
Is this a common issue that can easily be fixed?
I’m 6’3 190lbs and I’ve been trying to learn how to surf on a 10’2 foam board and it’s been a nightmare trying to turn my board around after getting wiped out, or trying to reposition myself for a wave. I know I’m still learning popping up but when I do try and attempt to catch one my board almost always nose dives, at this point I think my board is just too big for me. What size do you recommend? Do you think going down to a wavestorm size is best? Anything helps
Hi everyone,
I’m curious about what matters most to you when buying a wetsuit.
What are your top priorities?
Fit and comfort?
Quality and durability?
Price?
Brand reputation?
Flexibility and warmth?
With so many brands on the market, do you tend to choose based on price, or does word of mouth and real-world experience carry more weight?
Also, does it matter to you where the wetsuit is made (for example, made in the EU), or is that not really a factor?
I’d love to hear what influences your decision and any advice you have.
Thanks!
So I was out river surfing today and at the end of the session I noticed that this finbox became dislodged!
Since it’s still partially intact, I was thinking about taking a small rubber mallet to reseat the finbox and then just using a sun cured resin fix-it kit to seal it back up and smooth it out?
I could also see a method of taking the whole box out and clean it up and then solidify and cure it, but this is a first for me. This board is definitely quite old and I picked it up just last year cause it was a beater and cheap which was perfect for my river needs.
Does anybody know the best course of action for a semi-dislodged finbox repair like this?
I am looking to vent as literally no one in my family or friend group will understand my sorrow right now. I had this trip planned for 2 weeks on Oahu since October and looked forward to it probably every day since. Spent a lot of time in the water getting into decent shape for it. Day one in Waikiki I rented a board and happily paddled out to the spot near my hotel only to have the kookiest of kook things happen and my board struck me in the ribs during a wipeout. I think it was the second wave or something. The ocean just whooped my ass and now I think I have a bruised rib. I continued to surf after that and had some fun little sessions in smaller waves, but now into the second week of the trip I am questioning all my choices.
I have been more or less obsessed with this sport for many, many years and have invested so much time, punishment, perseverance and money- so much money especially this trip which was in the several thousand dollars range- and now here I am in Oahu struggling to just keep it together. I can’t take a deep breath, cough, cry or sneeze without very sharp pain and surfing has been removed from the agenda and I’m literally grieving. I realize I’m a privileged person and I know things could be so much worse. We have been doing other stuff just taking it easy and enjoying the island in other ways. But I am so sad. Please talk me off the ledge guys.
Edited to say: My rib could be fractured, I actually have no idea because I’ve not gotten an x-ray. Thank you to everyone responding. I totally see how this could be worse. I can still enjoy this beautiful place in other ways.
Hi everyone, im new here.
IHi everyone, I'm new here.
I recently bought this board (Hypto Krypto-style shape, 6'4" x 21 1/4" x 2 7/8") and something feels very off with the pad positioning. When I place my feet centered on both pads, both legs are completely straight — definitely not a natural surf stance.
Measurements:
Do you guys think that the front pad is too forward or is also the back pad thats wrongly positioned?
Should i just remove the front pad?
And what about these exagonal pads? Are they any good or i should also remove those?
Thanks for the advices!!
Hey all!
I have a Hayden shapes soft series 6”8 52L it’s been a great board previous to an ankle injury I was catching waves consistently. Lately lucky to catch a couple of waves per session. No issues paddling and catching them more so with getting the sweet spot on the board when I go to stand up.
Now I have been doing a surf program and I am on a 7”6 MF super soft foamie 57L and man so easy to catch waves 😆 not gonna lie on small days i am loving it.
I have already bought so many boards because I feel like I cannot get it right. I was looking at getting a bigger board but a hardboard maybe 7”2 with similar Ltrs a sturdy beginner - intermediate board that is going to go the mile for at least a year before I out grow it.
I have two shitty sideways boards a 7”6 foamie great very narrow width but flips easily in bigger surf.
7”4 hardboard, have taken it out a fair bit and easy to catch waves on but just dings so easily.
Suggestions would be great!
Hey guys, the seam tape on my suit is coming undone. The manufacturer offered to fix it under warranty, but I have a surf trip coming up soon and can't risk it not getting back to me in time.
I tried using the glue shown in the picture (followed all instructions perfectly), but it fails after just 2-3 sessions.
Looking for recommendations on a reliable glue and the best step-by-step method to do a solid home repair. Thanks in advance!
Yo dudes. I need help picking out a board that’s good for me and my style. I skate and have Ben on and off for about 6 years, but I skate transition with solid board control. I don’t think that transfers into the surfing world. I’ve surfed about 10 times so I know the basics. But I’m stuck on what to get. I want to be able to carve and turn and all that jazz. I’ve done it before in my buddy’s board. But idk what he had. Any help is appreciated
My one-year surfing anniversary is coming up in a couple of weeks. Unsurprisingly, I still suck, but I'm becoming more and more competent every session. Over the christmas holidays I graduated from my foamie to a proper longboard. I can pretty consistently catch green waves and go down the line. I can't yet cutback or crosstep, but I can maneuver the board well enough not to hit anyone else in the lineup. I still could use some work with positioning and wave reading.
I love my longboard, but I'm getting pretty curious about what else there is out there to ride. I don't think I'll ever become a shortboard ripper at my age (24F, started at 23), but I think maybe a midlength would be cool for the experience? I'm thinking something around 7 foot 2. I'm 125lbs, 5 foot 4.
I'm sure I'm doing a ton of other things wrong but these are the ones I'm going to try to fix in my next few sessions
Hello guys
Just trying to understand what to work on next as I started surfing a year ago.
Riding a 8' foamie, I'm comfortable up to 1,5m wave. From 1,5to 1m, I usually am not too comfortable with turning and angling the board. I go straight on, but can now pop up very early to manage the steepness of waves. I like the speed sensation on these bigger waves but would like to be able to get this angle and turn. Because issue is : on these bigger waves when I'm reaching down the wave there is not enough speed to turn...
In smaller conditions, I can take easily rights or left, but the speed is not really there.
Aside of this I recently tried a 7.4 board. It was very funny and the speed difference was real on waves higher than 1m. Also noticed that I had to place myself further inside
I force myself to make everything start from the fact of looking where I want to go very early, before even taking off. But on bigger waves, it's difficult for me to manage everything...
What to improve now?