u/autisticlettuce

We bought a BedJet 3 from the refurb site a couple of weeks ago. I do okay, but my wife gets hot at night and wakes up sweating, etc. I loved the idea of the air circulation having the wicking effect. We understood that it's not an A/C and doesn't work like that.

It was a bit tricky installing on our bed because of how our bed frame is shaped, but we made it work. So far it just makes her feet super cold, but nothing ever reaches her upper body, where she gets the hottest. We both like to "tuck in" our feet into the sheets and blankets, so we're probably just blocking the airflow by doing that. We've tried lots of different settings with the fan speed and temp, and can't find anything that works.

We thought about doing the BedJet sheet to more evenly distribute the air, but my wife is worried it will just make her cold all night since the air will be coming from everywhere. Should we try it anyway? Don't particularly want to sink another $100 into something we may be about to sell.

Edit: went ahead and bought the Cloud Sheet! Wish us luck!!

Have tried LCD-X and they were way too heavy. Tried DCA (Expanse and Stealth) and absolutely hated the house sound. Also tried the Ayra Organic and HE1000 Stealth (newest). They were both nice but I preferred the HE1000SE.

Really enjoy the HE1000SE - very dynamic, open, and airy. But being planars they lack low-end grunt. Have tried a bit of EQ with my Lokius but I feel like I'm pushing them too hard. What's a solid step up from the HE1000SE? Powering with a Mjolnir 3.

Budget is up to $2500-ish, located in the U.S. Would prefer to buy used, as it increases the options!

Has anyone had both of these, maybe at the same time? Is the Mjolnir worth the extra cost? Schiit acts like it's the best thing since sliced bread, and the reviews seem to be good. But the DX5 II has been making some waves too. More interested in sound, as opposed to "doo dads" and extra features.

This is for a desktop setup to run HE1000SE's (for now!). Will be using a Mimir for digital source and an RT-85N table for vinyl.

We are moving over to RAP soon. Balance is about $270K, so we're ready for the interest subsidies that RAP gives you, since SAVE just took it away.

Our payment on RAP will be about $800/month, and we were accruing about $1200/month just in interest on SAVE. I understand that RAP will kick in $50/month after the $800 minimum payment to help our balance go down, but what happens if we make an extra "principal only" payment later in the month? Are we allowed to do that? Will it actually go to principal, or will they just apply that to the subsidized interest that was waived?

Didn't happen at all last year, but it's happening every time our boys swim this year. The spring in the side retainer pin is still there, and it seems to have a decent amount of tension. Any tips on keeping this thing from popping out? Our other skimmer door doesn't have this problem.

Been doing the Taylor CYA test for a few months now. What do you guys consider "disappeared" for the dot? I mean I could say it's basically gone at 50, but if I squint pretty hard and keep the water calm I can still make it out at 30 too. Am I missing an easy trick for this?

We have a '24 X5, and this has been driving us nuts since we got it. Our local "Genius" has shrugged her shoulders, and the service guys can't figure it out either. We recently had the telematics module replaced because of a "emergency services comm error" message we were getting, but it didn't fix the CarPlay/volume issue.

Basically, every 3rd or 4th time we use the car, the volume from anything CarPlay will be extremely low - music, calls, etc. Doesn't matter what app, and it does it on both our iPhones, and in two different iDrive profiles. We've never had this issue in any of our other BMWs since we started using CarPlay in 2019-ish.

We can do the 30-second iDrive reset which fixes it, but it will just happen again a day or two later. Any ideas??