u/average_joe63

▲ 2 r/roomba

Clean Base "False Clog" – Red Blinking LED – S9 Hardware Help Needed (Already verified air path)

I’m hitting a wall with my Roomba s9+ Clean Base and could use some technical insight. My base is acting like there is a clog, but I have ruled out every physical obstruction.

The Symptom: When I press "Empty Bin" in the app, the Clean Base motor kicks on and sucks air from the Roomba normally. However, after around 10 seconds, the suction stops and the Clean Base LED starts blinking red.

What I’ve already done/verified:

  1. The "Air Path" Test: I unscrewed the pipe at the bottom of the base and it’s completely clear. I also ran a long, flexible tube through the entire internal path of the Clean Base to ensure there are no hidden blockages. It passed through easily.
  2. Hardware Isolation: I tested my Roomba on a different s9 Clean Base, and it emptied perfectly. This confirms the issue is definitely inside my specific Clean Base, not the robot or the robot’s bin flap.
  3. Basic Maintenance: Replaced the bag with a brand new one, cleaned the charging contacts, and wiped down the RCON sensor window.

The Video: As you can see in the video, the suction sounds strong for a few seconds before it gives up and triggers the red error light.

The Question: Since the path is physically clear and the motor clearly runs, I suspect a failing pressure sensor or a leak in the internal silicone tubing that tells the motherboard the bin is "clear."

Has anyone successfully repaired a pressure sensor issue on the s9 base, or is there another hidden sensor I should check before I consider this a total board failure?

Clean Base blinks red after a few seconds of emptying the bin

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u/average_joe63 — 9 days ago

How to fix my TCL 55S403 from the Black Screen of Death? My "Tape Fix" Journey and Request for Help

I wanted to document my experience troubleshooting a 2017 TCL 55S403 (Roku TV) that suddenly lost its picture. If you have sound and a "glowing" back-lit screen but no image, this might help you.

The Symptoms:

  • TV powers on, backlight is active (blueish glow).
  • Sound works perfectly—I could hear the Roku "chirps" when moving the remote.
  • Flashlight test showed nothing (suggesting it wasn't a backlight failure, but a data/panel issue).

The Diagnosis: After opening the back (no swollen caps on the power board), I did the Ribbon Cable Isolation Test on the T-Con board:

  1. Unplugged the right-side ribbon: Half the screen worked! (Roku logo appeared on the left).
  2. Unplugged the left-side ribbon: Black screen.
  3. Conclusion: The LCD panel has an internal short circuit on the right side. When the ribbon is connected, the T-Con board detects the short and shuts down the video signal to protect itself.

The "Tape Fix" Attempt (Trial and Error): I tried the "Scotch Tape/Paper Method" to block the shorted clock signals. This was way more tedious than the YouTube videos make it look. Here’s what happened:

  • Blocking only 1 pin (Pin 12): Still only had half a screen. The T-Con was still sensing the short.
  • Blocking a wide strip (10+ pins) on the right: The screen went totally black. I likely blocked the VGH/Power pins, so the panel couldn't initialize at all.
  • The "One-Thirds" Glitch: At one point, I managed to get the left and right thirds of the screen to work, but the middle third was white with vertical lines.
  • The "Horizontal Lines" Stage: I found a "sweet spot" where the whole screen turned on, but it was covered in horizontal lines. This meant I was blocking the short, but also accidentally blocking some "good" data pins.

My Takeaway: This is a game of millimeters. The pins are microscopic. If you’re doing this:

  1. Use a very thin strip (2mm-5mm). 2. Start at the outer edges. On this CSOT board, the Clock (CLK) pins are usually at the far right or far left of the ribbon.
  2. Be patient. I went from "Half Screen" to "Lines" to "Nothing" and back again.

I’m still tweaking the alignment to see if I can get a 100% clear picture, but even getting a full image back with some lines is better than a 55-inch paperweight.

Attached Photos:

  1. The T-Con Board (CSOT ST5461D04-1-C-7)
  2. The Main & Power boards
  3. My various attempts at masking the pins with paper/tape.

Anyone else had luck with this specific model? Does the "middle-third white" symptom mean a specific pin is still missed?

https://preview.redd.it/5v8hsg26a80h1.jpg?width=2316&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c066024e8ac9ccf4214f61013b308d50302555a9

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https://preview.redd.it/4hmhah26a80h1.jpg?width=2451&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7a9eee91dc6c7c3baecc3afa8e0fb744a7a3af6

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https://preview.redd.it/z9ybu736a80h1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c7788c3a82de74882128d6794b59f210299daa9

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u/average_joe63 — 10 days ago