u/bey1

Image 1 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 2 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 3 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 4 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 5 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 6 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 7 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 8 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 9 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 10 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 11 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 12 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 13 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 14 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 15 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Image 16 — QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches

QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches

Dealer name: Steve / TheOneWatches

Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner 124060 No Date, VSF

Price paid: 558€

Album links: https://mega.nz/folder/qcpHQbqI#GLFKu2lyL1mm9SHOiv6lmw

Index alignment: Looks ok to me, but I’m not that sure.

Dial printing: Looks clean and sharp.

Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A

Hand alignment: Looks okay ?

Bezel: Pip appears centered and the bezel is aligned with the 12 o’clock marker. Numerals and filling look clean.

Solid End Links: Look tight and even to me.

Timegrapher numbers: +2 s/day, 276° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error, 28,800 bph. These look excellent to me.

Appreciate your help guys ❤️

u/bey1 — 1 day ago

QC Rich GMT Master II - need your advice/opinion

Hey guys, this is my first QC, so I’d really appreciate a second set of eyes. I’m leaning RL, but please let me know if I’ve missed anything.
Dealer name: RLS Watch here on Reddit
Factory name: Rich Factory
Model name: Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” 126720VTNR on Jubilee. Seller lists it as the free-sprung JH3285.
Price paid: 650€ including shipping fees
Index alignment: doesn’t look that good with the alignment tool. Maybe I didn’t use it properly
Dial printing: Looks clean and crisp.
Date wheel alignment/printing: Dates do not look centered and clear.
Hand alignment: Looks good in the 3:00 photo.
Bezel: Looks aligned. Engravings and colour transition seem clean.
Solid End Links (SELs): Look tight with no obvious gaps.
Timegrapher numbers: according to what I understood from the tutorials here and on RWI, it looks very healthy to me.

Appreciate your help guys

I was also wondering if the sprite is also ok to wear on the left since the watch has been made for people to wear it on the right I’ve read somewhere…

u/bey1 — 11 days ago

First QC, GMT Master 2 Sprite Free Sprung Rich Factory

Hey guys, this is my first QC, so I’d really appreciate a second set of eyes. I’m leaning RL, but please let me know if I’ve missed anything.
Dealer name: RLS Watch here on Reddit
Factory name: Rich Factory
Model name: Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” 126720VTNR on Jubilee. Seller lists it as the free-sprung JH3285.
Price paid: 650€ including shipping fees
Index alignment: doesn’t look that good with the alignment tool. Maybe I didn’t use it properly
Dial printing: Looks clean and crisp.
Date wheel alignment/printing: Dates do not look centered and clear.
Hand alignment: Looks good in the 3:00 photo.
Bezel: Looks aligned. Engravings and colour transition seem clean.
Solid End Links (SELs): Look tight with no obvious gaps.
Timegrapher numbers: according to what I understood from the tutorials here and on RWI, it looks very healthy to me.
Anything else you notice: Rehaut, cyclops, case and bracelet all look good to my eyes. I’m still leaning RL. Would especially appreciate input from anyone familiar with the newer Rich/JH3285 setup.

Appreciate your help guys

u/bey1 — 12 days ago