

Anyone know what this is?
This little bit of plastic fell out all broken from the hotend as I was undoing the main front screws. Anyone know what it is?
I only wanted to tighten the hotend back screws, not find new issues 😅


This little bit of plastic fell out all broken from the hotend as I was undoing the main front screws. Anyone know what it is?
I only wanted to tighten the hotend back screws, not find new issues 😅
A1 Mini.
eSun PLA+
FDG settings (copied across into .04 nozzle). 0.08mm layer height for both prints.
RocketPigGames's Clockwork assassin model (digibashed to take guns instead of the original katars)
>! 0.4 on the left, 0.2 on the right.!<
Second pic is the original model to help show what kind of detail was on the stl.
Hard to do a apple to apple comparison as I don't know if the 0.2 nozzle settings from FDG is the best setting to use for the 0.4 nozzle. But hopefully this demonstrates the quality of overhangs depending on the nozzle size.
Assortment of mini's from Arbiter mini's 'Heroes of the Realms' & 'Desolate plains'.
A1 Mini
0.4mm nozzle
joodoos settings
eSun PLA+
I had been trying to use up a lot of poorer filaments quickly so I had been using the 0.4mm nozzle for a different print. Instead of switching back to 0.2mm nozzle once I was back to using the good filament I decided to try out u/joodoos settings for 0.4mm.
My verdict is that it is an excellent setting profile to have in your printing tool case! I have found it to have slightly more noticeable overhang scarring due to the 'wider' diameter but it's not the worst.
I view different settings as another tool I can use context depending. If I want a best quality print regardless of time, I go for ObsucraNox settings for 0.2mm. If I want something a little faster then MJG 0.2mm profile. Fastest print with minimal drop in quality shall be joodoos. Terrain sized mega miniatures are fine with just stock '0.08mm extra fine' bambu studio settings with slicer precision turned all the way up.
Just keep learning!
Loot studios ancient worm (Sandy Dunes of Lutba - Arbiter skeleton mini for scale)
- A1 Mini
- 0.4mm nozzle
- Bambu studio 0.08mm extra fine stock setting with precision set to 0.004 for 'Slice gap closing' & 'Resolution'.
- Sunlu PLA+ 2.0
​
Had 3kg of Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 that I got when I first started mini printing. Decided to put it all to use on a big print project where there were not as many finer details for the filament to fail me on.
​
Approximately 2kg of filament has birthed this beauty. It shall make an appearance in three different d&d campaigns I am running.
Had anybody had any issues where Bambu connect won't import sliced files?
My bambu connect all of a sudden just started to act up. There are no error messages or anything, I either drag & drop or use the import button to find the sliced files but the software just does nothing. It is not crashing. It is just not importing.
I have uninstalled and reinstalled it, installed the latest beta version, restarted the laptop multiple times, all with no luck. I wondered if it didn't like Orca sliced files all of a sudden but Bambu studio exported sliced files doesn't work. Even the exact same Orca sliced files I have printed previously aren't importing.
A1 Mini, 0.2mm nozzle, ObscuraNox 2.0, eSun PLA+, Glavenus sculpt by Axolote.
I don't paint my prints. But I felt that this model can help hide my inexperience and mistakes. So I decided put some colour on this print.
Set up: A1 Mini, 0.2 nozzle, ObscuraNox 2.0, Orca Slicer.
So I have been making the transition to Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 HS. I have dried the spool for 20hrs, calibrated it, printed some throwaway models (which printed with no issues, and marginally better surface finish than my usual filament) and then started to print a benchmark piece.
For some reason this print keeps breaking the arm at the wrist and armpits. It prints it and seems to just skip a layer at the wrist and then several layers near the arm pit. I tried adjust print temps (wondering if it was layer adhesion/cooling issues). Each model also had the spaghetti filament sticking out (second pic).
To see if it was a slicer issue, keeping all other settings the same, I switched back to eSun PLA+ (calibrated settings) and the print completed without any failure.
Anyone has any suggestions or further guidance on how to troubleshoot this? I don't like spending money on filament I can't use 😅
EDIT: Forgot to mention but I have tightened hotend screws before switching to Sunlu, and have done multiple cold pulls on the nozzle before and during testing. With printed auto calibration completed between each cold pulls for extra peace of mind.
A1 Mini, 0.2 nozzle, ObscuraNox 2.0 settings, eSun PLA+.
A1 Mini, ObscuraNox 2.0, eSun PLA+
Supports removed and egregious stringing cleared up. No other post processing applied.