u/duckmandubi

This year at the age of 34, I learned to surf. On my off days, I will wake up at dawn and drive 3 hrs to go surf in my nearest break, then get beat up in a 4 hr. sesh wherein nothing else comes in mind, just me, my board and the waves. safe to say its like tunnel vision to get better and have fun at the end. Though i sucked, I drive back home to my family with a sored, sun toasted body and a big smile.Thank you God for giving me the opportunity to get spent by doing an activity I once dreamed of!