u/dumbassthenes

I'll be flying to Oahu 7/6-7/8 to catch this next south swell.

Hit me up if you'll be around. It's always nice to make new bodysurf buddies.

It was choppy, overhead, trade swell storm surf today but it's sunny and there were these sick corners popping up here and there so I swam out to try and find a couple.

I spent most of the time fighting the swirl and rips and watching the ones I wanted break fifty feet in whichever direction I wasn't. But I got a few fun whompers and enjoyed myself.

Finally I got lucky, a couple bumps converged, and I was in the right spot for a well overhead bowling teepee section with just enough taper to the wall that I thought I could lock into a proper barrel before it closed out on the inside.

It was a very good wave. And, on the inside, it went totally square on the sandbar and, literally, sucked dry in front of me. I did a full-on faceplant half-scorpion into the sand at speed.

Then it sucked me over the falls and slammed me back onto the bottom, again. Very luckily I landed totally flat on my back, and there was some water under me at that point, so it absolutely fucking sucked but didn't injure anything.

Fun hobby. I can't understand why more people don't do it.