F80 Rough start, no throttle response, cuts out
Edit: Unplugged the valvetronic motor connector and cleared the codes. Attempted to start the car and did not start. The only codes that came back were codes for the valvetronic motor. I suppose it’s shorting the 5v circuit. Plugged it back in, car started (rough still) and all codes came back.
Picked up this F80 the other day. When I picked it up the car ran fine and sounded good. The car was involved in a front end collision (repairable) and purchased as is for a great deal. Started it today and it sounds like bad. Rough idle on start up, no throttle response, cuts out and shuts off sometimes. I ran the codes with protools and this is what it’s showing:
103008 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal-travel sensor 1, operating range: Voltage too low
103002 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal-travel sensor 1, electrical: Short circuit to ground
120408 – Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
121002 – Boost pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to ground
123704 – Electric wastegate 2, position sensor, electrical: Short circuit to ground
1F1A90 – Monitoring 5V sensor supply: Voltage outside valid range
10B101 – Outside temperature sensor, electrical: Short circuit to B+
135808 – Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: Malfunction
11AC02 – High pressure fuel system, plausibility, cold start: Pressure too low
11AA03 – High-pressure fuel system: High pressure pump, pressure too low
11AA05 – High-pressure fuel system: High pressure pump 2, pressure too low
Battery was dead. Had an AGM battery installed by the previous owner and did not install a IBS ground cable. I thought that might of been the issue so I swapped the battery with a good AGM and installed the IBS on it and coded the battery and the same issues continue. What could be wrong here? It definitely seems like it’s something electrical based off the codes. I’ve inspected all the wires in the bay and everything looks good. No trace of rodents anywhere. Tempted to throw in an antigravity lithium battery and see if this fixes my issues but I’d rather continue with further diagnostics before forking out the $1k for a new battery. If anyone can help me pinpoint this it’d be very much appreciated!
Here’s a video of how the car sounds: