r/BmwTech

Hey everyone, I’ve had TPM errors since I got my F30 because some of my sensors are bad. Originally I could just hit “OK” and keep using iDrive, but now the warning immediately comes back every time and I can’t access any settings.

I know I need new tires/sensors, but I shouldn’t be completely locked out of iDrive because of a TPM fault.

I do have an aftermarket screen, but this didn’t start happening until a while after I installed it. I’ve already tried resetting iDrive with the power button.

Has anyone had this happen or know how to fix it?

Dealer noted the inner pads are getting close to the wear sensors but based on the outside pictures they look ok. Do the inner pads really wear that much faster?

Hi,

Today my 200,000 mile MY 2013 X3 xDrive35i reported "Drivetrain Malfunction. Drive moderately. Maximum drivetrain output not available." Scanning via BimmerLink revealed the following faults:

12 Digital Motor Electronics, 2 errors
* 133B04: Valvetronic system: no adjustment possible
* 133E10: Valvetronic system: deactivated, too frequent adjustment errors

The eccentric shaft, valvetronic motor, and eccentric shaft sensor were replaced at 170,000 and then again at 180,000 miles. For the past 1,000 miles or so we've heard what sounds like some misfiring via the exhaust system - a repeated, bassy, "thump thump thump" sound every now and then.

What do you think is the issue? Thank you.

This is my gf's BMW, on a lease in the 2nd year with around 30k miles. I'm really puzzled by what's going on here.

I was actually the one driving, when the check engine coolant light came on. I pulled over and checked for a leak but saw nothing. We drove home. The light reset and I didn't see anything the rest of the day.

A couple days later the light came back on and she took it to BMW.

First, they recommended brake service "due to mileage". Why? There's not a single problem with the brake pads (and BMW did not identify a problem other than "mileage"). The brake pad sensor has obviously not been cut through.

Second, they came back and said "so technician saw no coolant leaks and the only thing he is recommending is a coolant flush due to the mileage and coolant was just low."

"No coolant leaks" BUT "coolant was just low".

How? How does the car lose coolant without a leak? If coolant came low from the factory, shouldn't they just top it up to the proper level, charged to the warranty?

They want to charge her $399.95 with coupon for the coolant flush.

What the hell is going on with BMW?

EDIT: got some feedback here and elsewhere.

This looks to be a clear ripoff by this particular dealership. I wasn't really aware that the dealership interests are not aligned with BMW's (the company itself). The reason the service advisor keeps using "due to mileage" is that the car is still under BMW's New Vehicle Limited Warranty for 4 years/50k miles, so any services the dealer wants to charge us for must be framed as either "due to mileage" or customer requested.

The coolant leak itself appears to have at least one service bulletin (SIB 11 10 25 in December 2025).

We'll be taking the car to another dealership.

I’ve had this issue with the driver side door handle and I got it replaced now. The back one is also hot and it throws a code on my dash saying high battery drain. I’m sick and tired of replacing door handles. Is there a way I can prevent this or fix myself?

Hi, I have a ‘20 G16 M850i that needs a new TPMS sensor. I’m having difficulty finding out if I need a 433MHz or 315MHz one. Looking to buy Schrader 28238 sensors that are pre programmed but upon looking at the bmw parts website with my VIN, it shows both 433 and 315 versions fit (probably because it doesn’t know which cars use which system). Any guidance on how I can find out would be appreciated. If it helps, I can find the pressure and temperature through the iDrive interface. Also any comments on the Schrader 28238 TPMS sensors? Do they work out of the box like they suggest?

I changed MAF sensor as it was the fault according to ECU scanner and diagnosed by garage as bad MAF sensor, only put in an aftermarket MAF sensor as a replacement, initially the Engine light was off, then it came back on the next day, exact same thing saying MAF sensor, surely if the aftermarket sensor was the problem it would’ve came back on instantly? Does the new sensor need programming in ?

So, I’ve had the car aligned three times at three different places. The problem I’m having is that when I drive and make a 90-degree turn to the left, the car drives straight afterward with no issues. However, if I make a 90-degree turn to the right, the car starts pulling/leaning to the right when I straighten out and continue driving. I have had control arms, shocks and springs changed, but nothing really helped.