u/garage_artists

Off to buy a baguette and maybe do some Zen gardening...

The jacket is a modern updated take on the Japanese Samue. A traditional work jacket as still worn by Buddist monks for daily tasks. Its great for travelling with massive pockets (inside too). the fabric in 4 way stretch water repellent cotton/poly. Sashiko style collar, elbow and shoulder re-enforcements.

• 作 (sa): Work or task
• 務 (mu): Duty or labor
• 衣 (e): Clothing or garment

PANTS: Beams Red Rope Denim Chino

SHIRT: Beams Red Rope 300g L/S Tee

JACKET: Norbit Samue

SHOE: EPT Dive White/White

BAG: APC "Vegan" Leather and Canvas Tote

NECK: Kapital Bandana

Japanese Heritage or "Gorpitage"? I rarely go full Americana Heritage, I just cant help being a "Lose Fit".

Street wear still influences my style as does UK baggy looks as far back as Duffer of St. George, the godfathers of British takes on Americana classics since1984. There's a whole post's worth of stories about duffer... from London faces to sold up and sold out and then to Japan revival, Sharpeye and Griffin.

Inspired by the often scurrilous accusations of "cos-play" or worse "hipsterism" I present to you heritage wear as seen through the lens of postmodern theory (its not all cuff size and indigo crocking y'know.. some of us are rilly rilly smaaart and shit)

Here I have broken down the order of simulacra as described by the father of postmodernism .. Baudrillard. In which I show how to reach heritage-wear singularity

FIRST ORDER:

A faithful (or "in good faith") copy of the original (imitating old clothes) - LVC 1955

SECOND ORDER:

An unfaithful copy of the original or a copy of the first order which masks and denatures the original (Cheaper new clothes imitating expensive new clothes that are imitating affordable old clothes) - Red Tornado 55501

THIRD ORDER:

The absence of a profound "original" reality, where the simulacrum pretends to be a faithful copy, but it is a copy with no original, claiming to represent something real, but no representation is taking place. (The blackhole or vacuum of hyperreality where copies of copies completely replace reality) - Brut Reworked

FOURTH:

The fourth stage is pure simulation, in which the simulacrum has no relationship to any reality beyond reflecting other signs and any claim to reality is only of the order of other claims. It implies the simulation is the real, hence "singularity" residing within the black hole - N&F "special" Denims

I have provided some examples of each stage but I am sure you can come up with some (15% of grade)

Please tune in to my latest podcast "Denim and Fading The Unreal" (sponsored by JNCO x Urban Outfitters), we have literally dozens of listeners., Available only on MySpace and at 4625 (Upper Shortwave/MF)

Double Denim - ish.

I almost live in this pop-over from Fulmine Mercantile in neppy denim. I was really trying to fade it for the "indigo invitational" , but it's a stubborn git... which I kinda like. Not sure I ever want to fade it now.. the neppy denim is just right.

This style popover is very faithful repro of the original US ARMY utility popover, right down to the metal buttons, wide sleeves and chest pockets. Later these same popovers (sold as surplus) were adopted by some prisons as work wear for inmates!

JEANS: Beams Japan - it may seem like I wear these all the time but I bought three pairs in a mega sale (!!!) in case they stopped making them lol.

SHIRT- Fulmine Mercantile US Army Pop-over

SHOES- EPT Dive - Overdyed in Olive

NECK - VisVim double bandana

WATCH - Seiko SKX007J

Does anyone else buy multiples?

feels like a uniform now (which I kinda like). denim/hickory/leather/neckwear.

It gets dead humid here.. so a neckerchief is key.. keep a clean collar and wipe sweat off the brow when needed.

PANTS: Beams Japan

SHIRT: Uniqlo

SHOE: Red Wing "old model" Shop Moc

NECK: RRL (Canal Street Special)

WATCH: SEIKO SK007J

SOCK: UGG (stolen from wife)

Bonjour!

I am off to Paris soon and have a couple of stores in mind to visit - Le Blouse De Lyon and Blue de Paname.

However, both of these are specialists in French workwear (which J'adore)

Does anyone have any other recommendations? Indian rocks? Roganel?

MERCI!

Was stoked to find "lightly used" this light chambray jacket obscure English brand Invertere (formed in 1904 by a Mr. Harold Parkin) who now only seem to produce high end 100% wool overcoats.

Beautifully made, fully lined, perfect stitching, lovely drape... its a great summer weight jacket with just a tee.

SHOES: Hood Rubber Company "Rockets" - Founded in 1896

PANTS: Tommy Hilfiger herringbone 107 style field pants - 1985

TEE: Unbleached Apparel 5.3oz MiUSA Cotton - Founded 2022

JACKET - Invertere Chambray Blouson - Founded 1904

NECK: "Canal Street" RRL Bandana - Founded 1967 - RRL in 1993

So there we have it 1896 to 2022 over 125 years in one outfit... thats heritage no?

Addressing chore coats issues...

Q: how many chore coats is enough?

A: one more than you currently have.

Percival? yes. RRL? Yes. Stan Ray? yes and yes. TCB? yes sir. Le Labourer? soon, yes. Vintage French railway? mais oui! Bonne? yes, but in Dutch.

But they all serve a purpose (kind of) .. color, fabric, summer, winter... french.

CHORE: Stan Ray Unbleached Ecru MiUSA

TEE: Unbleached Apparel 5.3 oz

SHIRT: Amazon "evil" USN Chambray

PANTS: Tommy Hilfiger (shock horror!) Herringbone Fatigues

SHOE: Red Wing 1907

Need another chore coat probably.

Unusual double breasted chore coat.. I'm sure many of us have way too many denim chore coats, but branching out in color is the way forward...

This is from Dutch brand Bonne - Found this in a super sale though o "snagged and bagged". Their sizing is odd and doesn't flatter the bigger lad - this is an XL - I'm 6'/200lbs.

But, the quality is great - heavy twill, taped seams, overlocked and large "wrap round" pockets.

SHOE: Wallace and Barnes Lug Sole Camp Moc

JEANS: Beams Selvedge Chino

TEE: Kapital Breton Stripe

CHORE: Bonne Orange Double Breasted

kUrioUS oRanGE!

Continuing the series "Posing with Favorite Objects" - Here I present my hammer. My paternal great aunt Rose was quite the eccentric, she carried a spoon on a chain around her neck at all times (you never know when there is chance to eat), she spoke three languages: English, French and German, was a "land girl" in 1942 and by the end of WW2 was working in liberated France "interviewing" German POWs.

She didn't care for Christmas or birthdays, and gifts were often things she had laying around the house...half a box of talc, a pair of darned socks, maybe a unopened tin of peaches.

When I was about 9 or 10, her Christmas present to me was this hammer. I have had it ever since. Its built kitchens, sheds, pergolas and decks; and has been with me through multiple relocations, outlived relationships and even seen off an attempted home invasion.

Its the best present I ever had.

JEANS: Beams Japan - Selvedge chinos

SHIRT: Carhartt WIP x Invincible Work Smock - Multiple pockets including hidden hand warmer pockets, forearm pocket and chest pockets. POCKETS!

SHOES: EPT - Dive white/white

HAMMER: Aunt Rose

WATCH: Smiths Nato PRS-40

Built a shed this weekend BTW

Unpredictable weather down south in the northern tropics...will it rain (yes ,but not until humidity has reached 10,000% and even then probably not, until it does.) So back to the "wet weather gear but keep it light weight).

I was going to sell this parka and was contacted by the Nigel Cabourn archive via insta to buy it from me. That was massively exciting for a Nigel fan boy like myself.. But then my mate Matt ( u/MattHolmes14 ) from Fulmine Mercantile .. said "never sell archive pieces.. you'll miss it". He was right I'm not selling... even back to Nigel himself.

PARKA: Nigel Cabourn "Mandalay" Pack-away Silk/Cotton Parka - yes it packs away into its own pocket for travel/storage. The silk/cotton blend and taped seams makes it rain repellent and quick drying. - Archive Piece from 2010.

LAYER: Nanamica Mountain Jacket - I have this in blue also. Blends traditional Japanese work jacket style with technical fabrics. Makes a great layering piece, also rain repellent! A kind of Heritage-Gorpcore if you will.

TEE: Unbleached Apparel 5.3 oz (Unseen)

NECK: RRL "Merchant Tailor" Bandana

JEANS: Red Tornado "Wide" Pants - IYKYK

SHOE: EPT Dive in Olive

HAT: NOLA Mardi Gras "Krewe of Freret" grail throw - You have to catch it!

Finally big thanks to u/el_cul for coining the term "Gorpitage" for this mix of Gorpcore and Heritage!

A little more Japanese Heritage today, Nanamica "Mountain" Jacket. Nanamica, founded in 2003 by Eiichiro Homma, a veteran designer who had worked with Helly Hansen and The North Face Japan.

This model blends traditional Japanese a work jacket style with technical fabrics. Makes a great layering piece or as here simply over a tee. A kind of Heritage-Gorpcore if you will.

JACKET: Nanamica Mountain Wind Jacket - Lightweight, mesh lined, tight weave

TEE: Unbleached Apparel - I bought half a dozen in the sale. my go-to tee.

NECK: Kapital "Smiley Face"

PANTS: Beams Japan - Selvedge loose chino.. while they were on sale I went a bit mad and bought three pairs, they really form part of my "standard uniform"

SHOE: NB Reissue of the "Glazed Ginger" 1982 "Rainier" Hiking boot as designed and worn by legendary mountaineer Lou Whitaker during his time on Everest (a fascinating story in itself!)

...of course the nearest I get to a mountain is the huge pile of paperwork on my desk.

Quite by accident I found myself wearing almost 100% Japan today... loose fit, airy, comfy but kind of technical.

Many times when we think of heritage-wear the image we conjure is of Americana, and often Japanese interpretations or reproductions in denim.

Here though I present a "Samue" or Japanese traditional work jacket. Originally worn by Zen Buddhist monks during daily tasks, this version from Norbit is updated in technical fabrics.

"Samu" (monastic work/chore) + "e" (clothing) = Samue.

Right enough history! Here's the breakdown:

JACKET: Norbit Samue Jacket in 4 way water repellent Cordura "softshell", it has inerior shoulder straps for slipping off/carrying

PANTS: Beams Japan Selvedge loose chino

TEE: Unbleached Apparel 5.3oz Tee

NECK: VisVim double bandana belt and Brass Whistle on red rope (unseen)

FACE: Cutler and Gross Spectacles

SHOE: EPT Dive

Its's time we expanded heritage beyond the Anglosphere?