u/glass-museum

▲ 2 r/944

Turbo Downpipe removal/replacement without pulling turbo?

I’m going to replace the turbo outlet/downpipe in my 86 turbo with a Fabspeed downpipe and would really love to avoid removing the turbo.

I’ve done the turbo removal before and can get it done, but wondering if anyone else has successfully removed the downpipe without actually removing the turbo?. If I remove the intake manifold and maybe a heat shield or 2, it looks like maybe I can get access to all the bolts but not sure…. I do have a Billy boat exhaust that is designed with jointed pieces using exhaust clamps. the exhaust triangle flange that comes off the downpipe is a small section piece that I think I can remove from the mid pipe to make it easier.

Anyone ever have any luck trying this?

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u/glass-museum — 2 days ago
▲ 4 r/944

Late fuel sender rusted inside fuel tank. Cleaning recommendations and strainer removal.

My fuel level gauge was not working, so I went to remove my fuel sender in my 1986 944 turbo to
Clean it and when I pulled it out, the whole thing was rusty and I see a good amount of rust buildup in the bottom of the tank. It was hard to get a picture of it, but there’s a decent amount all around the bottom of the tank.

I think that the fuel strainer screen is also gone from what I can see. I’ve read horror stories about the whole thing coming out and having to JB welder epoxy it back in and not holding, or having to install the 928SRS insert. Not really wanting to attempt the strainer right now, but I might have no choice.

Question 1. what are recommendations for cleaning out the fuel tank to get rid of all this stuff? I’m thinking about cleaning out the tank as best as i can from the sender opening with a cleaning wand and transfer
Pump and waiting to do the strainer later. I have one of those fuel transfer pumps that I’m going to try to use to get most of the fuel out and maybe some of the dust from the bottom. the issue is that there is a good amount of fuel in there, probably over 12 gallons so I’m gonna need to use a transfer pump to at least drain the bulk of it. I’m just gonna replace the sender rather than trying to clean out all that caked rust.

Question 2. What are some personal experiences with removing the strainer? It seems like it’s half and half. Some don’t have issues and some need to use the last resort options I mentioned. I’ve seen recommendations to tighten a hose clamp over the sleeve when taming it out and it will help keep the insert in the tank. Makes sense but not sure how effective give it is. Any other tips and info? Are you able to get any or penetrating oil in there to help?. I have some Kroil and I bet if I could get some of that stuff in there it would help. Also what are experiences with the 928srus insert? I’m Just anticipating that is the part I will need to go down. I’ve seen a video where it needed to be sanded down to fit.

u/glass-museum — 24 days ago
▲ 2 r/944

Broken slave cylinder bleeder screw

I’ve been noticing a very slight sponge-like feeling in my 86 turbo clutch so I decided to bleed the system with a motive bleeder to see if that helps. Unfortunately I guess the PO had snapped the slave cylinder bleeder screw. Seems to hold pressure and no leaks. Seems like a pain to try and extract it so I’m going to probably just install a new one.

Question. What’s the best way to bleed/drain the existing fluid when I go to change the slave cylinder? Should I drain as much fluid out of the reservoir with a transfer pump then just drain the rest from the feed like that’s runs to the top of the slave cylinder? I guess these system’s don’t hold a ton of fluid so maybe that’s the best option. Just trying not to make a huge mess if possible.

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u/glass-museum — 28 days ago
▲ 4 r/944

Slow speed fans run continuously while car is running

1986 944 Turbo. My slow fans stay on and never go off after the first two cycles of kicking on and kicking off. The fans do run for 5 or so minutes after shutdown but do not run continuously when the car is shut off. After the first 2 cycles of turning off (while the car is running), they basically stay on forever. I have a 92c Thermofan switch and a 71c thermostat currently installed. I tested the 71c thermostat before installing and it started opening at 73 and opened fully at 80c. I have been through multiple iterations of thermostats. There was a no name thermostat installed when I bought the car that seemed on the higher side so I thought that was the issue (higher thermostat than Thermofan switch). I installed a wahler 80c initially after removing the no name. I tested in boiling water and it didn’t actually open until closer to 88c. So after installing the wahler, I thought there was an issue with the thermofan and thermostat fighting each other so that’s why I installed the 71c.

I’ve done all of the following and the slow fans run and run after a couple of cycles so I don’t know if I’m actually overheating or if something else is going on.

-Bled the system over and over. I have tried using a vacuum Filler, driving the car, cracking the bleed screw numerous times, pressure tester method.
-Switched out the radiator with a good used OEM unit that held pressure at 15 psi no issue.
-Pressure tested whole system at 14 psi and held pressure.
Installed a 71c thermostat and also tried a 80c wahler thermostat. Both with a small hole drilled in the top of thermostat
-Tried another spare fan relay. Same issues. Tested the relay with a jumper.
-Installed a 92/102c and also a 85/93c thermofan switch. The 85c never kicked off and the 92c only switches the fans off twice.
-Added water wetter and higher distilled water ratio than coolant
-I’ve riddled with the ac to make see if the ac is making the slow fan stay stuck on.

The temp gauge stays around the first mark so it seems to be running cool I think.. ? The fans just won’t shut off after 2 cycles. They just keep running and running.

Aside from the relay, thermofan switch, bleeding the system, what else could it be? I haven’t noticed any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Compression test was also good. Not losing any coolant. So hopefully not HG. Is the 71c thermostat too low and was there wahler thermostat opening too high? I’m in hot Texas but I’ve had two other 944 NA’s that didn’t have continuous fans running all the time so something seems off.. Should I try to lock in a thermostat that actually starts to open at 80c? Any other ideas are welcome.

u/glass-museum — 2 months ago
▲ 3 r/944

Lindsey Racing 3” 944 Turbo exhaust reviews?

I am in need of a new exhaust/cat for my 944 turbo and I am looking at both the fabspeed and Lindsey racing options.

The Lindsey racing option is very appealing because I can get a full system with cat/muffler and other options such as a bung for AFR gauge for around $1200. https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Porsche/LRA-951-EXH-32.html The cat and downpipe from fabspeed is $1800 and does not include muffler etc.

Main question is I would love to hear reviews of the Lindsey racing system regarding installation, fitment, sound, how it has held up and anything else. I’ve heard that their system can be hit or miss with fitment, droning and the bands that hold the system together can come loose and rattle potentially needing welding those joints. Would love to hear any reviews or feedback. Thanks.

u/glass-museum — 2 months ago
▲ 1 r/944

The OEM fuel pressure damper is astronomically expensive ($750) and there used to be no alternative. Out of nowhere I am starting to see a drove of cheaper options on Amazon. I know that 944 online has an aftermarket option now for $190 but specifically wondering if anyone has tried any of the options on Amazon. They site the OEM part number 94411020106. Seems like someone has realized there is a market for these.

Anyone have any experience with any of these?

https://a.co/d/0hHPCt3R

https://a.co/d/02dxkeTB

https://a.co/d/0bIrNtxM

https://a.co/d/0epojOj2

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u/glass-museum — 4 months ago