



Chill cruise
Cleaned up for a day at the track with the homies! 🤙🔥
1983 Moss Green Metallic




Cleaned up for a day at the track with the homies! 🤙🔥
1983 Moss Green Metallic
So car died and wouldn't start for 4 hours. Got it towed home and started in the driveway. I decided to change the speed and ref sensors and it seems to be running a lot better and one sensor was pretty destroyed. Could this cause the issue???? I'm new to 944s
Hey guys, my car recently failed its MOT due to the front lower suspension arm ball joint. I had the ball joint replaced last year so got a new arm and I'm in the process of installing it. I'm giving it a go myself and I've been following Clarks Garage guide and I've got to the rear of the arm and I'm having a bit of trouble.
The two big bolts I've managed to release and they turn but don't seem to be doing much and just aren't coming loose no matter how many times I turn it. I've seen a few videos where people are using impact guns so just wanted to see if anyone had run into this issue and it just needs a bit more power or any other ways to release the bolts? I'm not particularly mechanically minded but got the car as I want to learn. Appreciate any advice 👍
I’m organizing a special group buy for the front splitter for the Porsche 944 and Porsche 944S, made by a good friend of mine u/Marco_Antonio_Garage, with whom I’ve had an amazing collaboration for a long time.
This splitter is designed not only to enhance the look of the car, but also to improve aerodynamics, as it extends across the full depth of the bumper.
🌍 Worldwide shipping is included in the price.
💥 HOW IT WORKS:
Order before May 25th → get 10% OFF
Register an account on the website before ordering → get 15% OFF
👇 Full details & orders:
https://marcoantoniogarage.com/product/porsche-944-944s-front-splitter/
Preface: This is on a 924, but I think the doors are essentially the same.
So, the drivers door on my 924 drops when it's opened. It probably drops a good 2-3 centimetres (roughly an inch for the American fellows) from the closed position. This makes the door pretty rough to close since it doesn't hit the striker properly and probably also touches the lower doorsill. The striker/latch is adjusted so that the door sits very nicely (at least height wise) when closed. All body lines pretty much perfectly match the door.
Trying to do the ol' adjust the bolts on the hinge with the door supported by a jack hasn't worked. In fact it seems like that just moves the door rearward making it almost impossible to close (and also will take paint off the panel behind it).
If I lift the door with my hands when it's slightly opened (opened by a foot or so) it will sort of stay up (if only just slightly too low to close perfectly). However, if I at that point open the door more than halfway to the stopping point, the door drops again. Same goes if I put any extra weight on the door.
Does anyone have any idea about where the problem might be? Hinge pins/bushings? There doesn't seem to be any serious amount of play there but it's a bit hard to check since they are a bit hidden behind the door itself when moving it.
From what I understand from searching around, it seems pretty common that the actual sheet metal the hinges attach to on the body of the car can bend over time. If so, I assume the easiest way would be to shim the upper(?) hinge, so that the upper hinge half sits slightly further to the front of the car. However, it seems slightly cumbersome to get in there with a shim (and I can't find any pre-made ones so I assume I would have to fabricate one myself)
Any ideas?
So my current gauge cluster has issues. The speedo does not work and the trip won't reset (bad solenoid). I bought a cluster off Marketplace. Plugged it in and voila, I have a speedo and the trip reset works!
However, now I have an engine oil light in the lower left and the main center red warning light won't turn off because of that. I looked at my 85.5 cluster and there is no provision or light for the "engine oil" light in the lower left so I assume the 85.5 did not have the oil level sensor yet. From what I was told this cluster I got came out of an 87 NA.
Is there any way to trick the cluster to turn off the "engine oil" light, thus also turning off the main center warning light? Both are stuck on at the moment because of the engine oil light I think. I know I can just pull the bulb from the engine oil light, but then I'll still have the main warning light illuminated. Any suggestions?
Hello everyone, I recently acquired a Porsche 944 S and there's a noise that's bothering me: a knocking sound coming from the top of the engine. I initially thought it might be the hydraulic lifters, but the noise only appears when the engine is warm. So I changed the oil and switched to 10W-60 instead of 10W-40. The noise is a little quieter, but still there.
Do you have any idea what it could be?
Not sure if it’s real, but it’s a rare find if it is.
Hi all, I recently bought my new to me ‘84 944. It has been sitting for 4 years with a starter issue and the owner passing away. I’d assume I should go ahead and just bite the bullet and change the belts and water pump, but would it be ok to just start it up a couple times? Would a visual inspection be enough for the time being?
Hi guys,
Ill be doing the belts and pulleys on my 84' 944 Lux on the 30th May.
Would anyone in and around the London/Sailsbury area have a balance shaft spanner, 27mm offset wrench and a belt tensioning tool that I can rent?
I'm about to start driving my car on a regular basis. It currently has 205/55 R16 on the front and 225/55 R16 on the rear.
I don't particularly like of that setup and some googling suggests a 225/50 R16 - 245/45 R16 combo on this car. I'm just not finding any samples photos of this setup online using Google/Chatgpt/etc. The results I'm getting are for other wheels or the 15" and late offset 16" phone dials.
Is anyone running these instead of the factory default?
Never realized there was one in Scrubs!
Spotted this at a Cars & Coffee in NJ yesterday. 👌
Hey Everyone! I have a 1988 944s (pic for attention) and my steering has felt off. I swapped to a less worn rack last year and it was great, more recent i put a new steering shaft from pelican parts since my old one was smoked and for what ever reason i had to do a 180 with the wheel to get it to work, but It worked great. Anyways fast forward to today, i have like a inch of 2 zone of steering wheel softness in the middle but not a dead zone. On the highway it’s responsive but its a little squishy say in that centered area. Its only in the center of the wheel other than that its nice and firm/ tight steering I do have a tierod with a torn boot thats easily rocked back and forth but no side to side on the tire. Im contemplating doing new sway bar bushings and such but id rather fix my looseness first.
Is there any reason to get one of those flashy fuel line kits from Lindsey Racing and the like? Is there any reason not to use cheap auto parts store fuel line plus some heat wrap?
A little less than a week ago I asked all of you to talk me off the ledge about driving my 944S 6 hours one way to Road America. Thanks to the large response from you all telling me I was overthinking it, I took the plunge and did it. Made it there, two days driving around the track watching racing and home with no issues. Thanks for the push I absolutely needed!!!
Ordered an engine rebuild kit from 944 Online.
Three of the goetze rings are the same. One of them has slightly different packaging (rings on lower right of the first picture) and a different oil control ring. The expander and end gaps are also different. This ring reads GOE 6. All the other rings just have GOE on top.
Should i try to return these and get matching ones or send it?
Hey everyone, I recently bought a pair of brand new, factory-fresh OEM Porsche light frames (Part No. 931.505.196.01 / Made in Germany) for my 944. The car just got a fresh respray, and we are currently reassembling everything.
However, we ran into a frustrating fitment issue on the front left side. As you can see in the pictures, the frame doesn't sit flush with the bumper/body panel. It starts to gap significantly towards the outer edge, and because the raw material underneath is light gray, the gap is extremely noticeable. Since these are flexible OEM parts and not rigid aftermarket fiberglass/3D prints, I was hoping they would clip right in perfectly.
Before my paint shop or I try anything risky:
• Has anyone experienced this with new OEM frames? Is this a known issue with body tolerances on the 944?
• What is the best way to fix this gap? Can it be adjusted via the brackets/mounting points behind it, or is there a trick to tightening them down in a specific order to get rid of the tension?
• Should there be a thin foam gasket or rubber trim piece in between that I might be missing?
Any advice or tricks from anyone who has tackled this would be highly appreciated. I really want to get this perfect after the fresh paintjob. Thanks in advance!