How to get better at dyno?

I know this the most serious climbing sub, so I reaaly expect someone can help me.

i Have been doing deep under water solo development lately, I found this amazing bouldering line( roof ) , it’s such a pure line after cleaning. Starts from the only left two mini pinch topical coral reef, then just one move powerful dyno to the lip, (think about the one in rockland).

my problem is I can’t reach it with my span, but I can swim back to the lip hold easily every try. So I understand bouldering is all about ethics, so does this count? for the record I dont never dab anything after launch.

also how to get better at this kinda dyno. I find interestingly dyno under water is harder than in my gym

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u/hahaj7777 — 3 months ago

What exactly is a good route setting?

Over cook, under cook, medium rare, separation, aesthetic, balanced, entertainment, cutting edge(creative) , breakable/non-breakable

I also wonder if competitors have different opinion from audiences based on different perspectives.

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u/hahaj7777 — 4 months ago

Make your dream team!

Just a silly game, okay you got caught by the most evil route setter, he sets you 5 boulders with very different style, if you don’t do every of them, you die. Good news is all the IFSC climbers are also caught, and you can pick 5 athletes to climb for you, mens round first then women’s.

  1. pure overhang power boulder (things old school finger strength mono pocket campusing etc )
  2. pure slab
  3. paddle/double/triple whatever dyno+ parkour (can’t be stacticed)
  4. a very complicated puzzle boulder (beta break can happen, not much about strength)
  5. A 40 moves boulder with okay difficulty. But definitely harder than lead.

PS:

you can only pick comp climbers in current circuit.

IFSC rules. (No appeal allowed though :( )

Boulders are not morpho, can’t be broken by height.

Condition is very good, no skin issue.

Think twice before your decision, this is do or die situation.

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u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

What should I do?

I hiked 2hrs to session my project, but my stashed pads were gone, then saw some one doing this with my pad.

u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

I’m writing an open letter to sports climbers

does anyone have anything they want to say about sports climbers? it’s very important to me that i communicate how i feel about sports climbers by which i mean rehashing whatever you say here

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u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

2026 Keqiao setting team

saw this on rednote, feels need to share here. Total 3 IFSC (world climb series ) international setters , 3 local setters, 1 intern setter( women) , two forerunner (one of them is women).

u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

Climber got canceled after Janja hugged him

Fun clip from rednote. Turns out this guy is one of the setter and Janja’s local guide. He said both Roman and he thought Janja would fall that way , that’s why he chose standing there.

PS: im joking, people are just joking online, they say something like “ you will never climber anything harder than v1” “pls delete your account and never show up again”, to this guy. Pls don’t downvote me if you don’t know the culture difference. I just wanna share something fun about the GOAT.

u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

Normal guy try Keqiao Men’s final boulder

Also from Rednote, this host from Outdoor magazine tried all 4 boulders, says he is a v4 climber (about v6 in US). They also said M2 is v13

u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago

Keqiao Chinese lead setter interview

This is from red note and AI translated(kinda funny). The lead setter was Remi, this is from Chinese lead setter. They have 3 international setters and 3 local setters to form the setting team. Basically he said each setter got to set something they are not specialized in. And they want to make M4 a tiebreaker . Funny he didn’t say a word about women final.

u/hahaj7777 — 5 months ago