I'm at a bit of a loss, because the last time I updated this remote was in Windows 10.
I'm on windows 11 and I've tried on 2 different machines. Trying to sync with MyHarmony produces no results (sync button turns blue, then nothing)
Am I stuck with the configuration I have now?
I only drove this half a mile on slow roads, i.e. from the lake to storage. But I consider this an insecure mounting since nothing is keeping the canoe from going front and back aside from the tension of the ratchet straps
I couldn't do this in my old Prius. And honestly, I don't know that the Trailseeker's smaller siblings could do this as easily either.
I've noticed that the Charge Level is off a bit when I'm connected to ODB live data. I think I have enough data to use a different equation, but changing the equation in ODB PID Editor doesn't actually appear to change the value used for SOC.
This is a VERY esoteric question, but has anyone noticed for them that the state of charge seems to be slightly off?
I'm using the Solterra as a reference, but what it reads and what the car displays seems to be different. Last night, my car displayed 43% and ABRP reported 40%. Today, after charging, the car displayed 60% and ABRP reported 59%.
I understand the equation it uses and at this point, I'd like to get enough data points to rederive the equation for the Trailseeker.
If you're comfortable using ODB PID Editor, running Test PIDs and reading the values from it, I'd love to try and compile a list of data points.
Simpson Strong-Tie TP15 blocking wireless charger.
I've been tired of the wireless charger being inconsistent. The idea is very nice, but the execution has been anything but. I've seen a lot of people do all sorts of things to disable the wireless charger, but this is one of the easiest and cheapest solutions I discovered.
Simpson Strong-Tie TP15. $1 at Home Depot and Lowes. It's made from 20ga galvanized steel and from my testing, it works and it doesn't heat up (at least not on the 20 minute drive home from Lowes).
Downsides: It's rough on the edges and could easily scratch something. It's also ugly AF. Also, it's galvanized steel, so if you're extra scared of zinc, it's not for you.
I have an EZPass, and on my old Prius, I mounted it just under where the mirror attaches to the windshield.
On this car, that doesn't seem like a good idea as it seems like it would actively block visibility. I have a few thoughts on where to mount it, but I thought I'd consult y'all and see what other people have been doing.
I know a few people here have brought a roof carrier on road trips with them. What sort of efficiency did you end up getting with them? I've got a road trip planned soon with one, and I'm trying to figure out what I should be putting into ABRP.
This happened just over 24 hours ago and has disappeared since. I DON'T have the DCM activated, because I don't want to get hooked on any paid subscriptions.
Based on the Ancel BM200 I have hooked up, there was a blip on startup that may have dropped below 12V, but it was a pretty reasonable value up until it dropped.
It seems to be that the Trailseeker is particularly sensitive to a questionable battery and they threw in a weak battery to begin with.
I'm going to keep an eye on this and if it comes up again, I'm going to Costco and swapping it out with an AGM.
It's still unnerving when, out the corner of your eye, you see one moving.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7382319
I own a Subaru Trailseeker and there are a few storage problems with it.
This attempts to solve both those problems.
The phone frame holds your phone in place and provides support for the big basket. There's plenty of access room for the phone so it can be somewhat easily removed.
The big basket is large enough to hold sunglasses, which this vehicle has a notable lack of space.
The optional side basket is large enough to hold most coins. I find this useful when going to Aldi where coins are required to use their buggies.
I made this a basket primarily because I'm a 3d printing filament miser and it's the easiest way to save on filament.
Right now the biggest problem I have is incredibly petty. If I'm using Android Auto maps, it takes no less than 3 virtual button presses to exit out. Is there a faster way to exit that I may have missed? I know some Toyota flavors have a taskbar arrow that exits, but I don't think I'm so lucky here.
I got the Trailseeker almost a full week ago and have put nearly 500 miles on it (admittedly a third was simply getting it home from the closest dealership that had one in stock)
But I never bothered doing anything with Subaru Connect. My last car was from 2007 and my eye twitches whenever I hear the words subscription and trial. I installed the app wondering if there were any freebies, but I never really got that far in connecting to my car.
Given all the headaches people have had that are circumstantially link to the DCM, is there anything I'm missing that I really ought to have? The only thing I can think of is reading the charge level of the car when I'm plugged in and not at the car.
I discovered this today and given what little I've found on the Internet about it, I thought I'd pass it on here.
Did you know that you can get the next turn / distance on the instrument panel using Google Maps? I'd seen it in a Prius rental, but only for Apple Maps. However, I suspect it was available for Google Maps and I was just dumb.
First, you need to have Google Maps be giving you directions to somewhere.
Next, if you press the up or down button on the left part of the steering wheel, a set of menu icons will appear, starting with a leaf, adaptive cruise control icon, a musical note and a few others.
Select the adaptive cruise control icon (it's officially driving support system information). Hit Ok. If directions don't show up immediately, press left or right a few times.
Personally, I think this is a tremendously useful feature that's been drowned out by the other cool features on this car.
NOTE: I have a feeling this also works on many other Toyota vehicles with a similar platform. bZ, Solterra, Prius, etc.
I'm in a position where I'd like to have a car sooner than later since my current car is having enough problems where I don't want to drive it if I have to. I also have a fair bit of driving to do this summer. The problem is that all the dealers around me have their car "in transit" and no one knows when they're slated to arrive except "July". The nearest dealer to me that HAS one in stock is 130 miles away (in my 2nd least favorite color)
I'm really torn, because I haven't actually seen one in person yet, but I don't know if I want to commit the drive to pick one up. I live in Pittsburgh if anyone reading this is local to me and willing to show it off.
Anyways, does anyone else have any insight as to when in July these have any chance of arriving at my local dealerships? And whether Subaru intends to keep the 0% financing on it for July?
Something I saw brought up in a YouTube video for a RAV4 Prime was that you should use the departure time in the charging menu as it would ensure that a) it will charge the battery until about 50% until b) it charges so that it JUST gets to your desired charge state by your departure time.
Can anyone confirm that this is true for the Trailseeker? And if so, how come no one is advocating for it?
Edit: turns out I was confusing battery preconditioning schedule, though I can't help but wonder if a product manager got confused at some point.
