


First Mulitrack acquired!
21" 730, a little scruffy. Biggest bar ends I've ever seen. Plan is new tires, saddle, trigger shifters, cables and housings. Very cool bike.



21" 730, a little scruffy. Biggest bar ends I've ever seen. Plan is new tires, saddle, trigger shifters, cables and housings. Very cool bike.
I have an early nineties mountain bike that I am trying to get running again and i'm very close. It has seven speed rear shimano exage and the cassette is in pretty good shape, but this free hub doesn't click when you spin it backwards. And I noticed sometimes and more frequently now that the whole drivetrain skips under heavy load, like the palls in the free hub aren't engaging. It looks like the hubs are by joytech which makes sense, because this was a mid range Taiwanese built bike from 1991.
The friendly people at my LBS advised me to get a new wheel but I am trying to see if i can resuscitate this freehub or get a new freehub body. How does Bikewrench advise?
Did some more work on the bike today, some of it was a success (converting from cantilever to Alivio v brakes) but this is a failure - this SunLite adjustable quill stem rocks/wobbles side to side enough that I'm not feeling safe riding it. I have the quill anchor bolt tightened all the way down, the clamp around the handlebar tightened all the way down, and both the two bolts on the side of the hinge, as well as the securing bolt underneath are tightened all the way down. This whole setup rocks side to side with my body weight on it. And I did not have that issue with the original quill stem that came on this bike. Are these adjustable stems garbage or am I doing something obviously wrong?
Did some more work on the bike today, some of it was a success (converting from cantilever to Alivio v brakes) but this is a failure - this SunLite adjustable quill stem rocks/wobbles side to side enough that I'm not feeling safe riding it. I have the quill nchor bolt tightened all the way down, the clamp around the handlebar, is tightened all the way down, and both the two bolts on the side of the hinge, as well as the securing bolt underneath are tightened all the way down. This whole setup rocks side to side with my body weight on it. And I did not have that issue with the original quill stem that came on this bike. Are these adjustable stems garbage or am I doing something obviously wrong?
I've got a set of new Shimano BR-T4000 vbrakes that I'm swapping this cantilever setup over to to match the vbrake shifters/levers ive got, and now im wondering how to route the cables since the housing passes through the stem in front and threads into a standoff on the seat stays in the rear? Do I just bypass the pass through on the stem and the bridge on the back?
I'm trying to get this old steel 90s mtb going again and I took the rear axle apart to grease the bearings in there. This was a poor choice because I have no idea on God's green earth where all these spacers go back or how to set up where the axle tube sits relative to the bearing cups that hold them in place. I should've left it alone.
It is 3x7 Shimano Exage 300LX with a freewheel if that helps. Does anyone have a good link or description of how to set this up?
Edit: if it helps, I have two thin washers (one thinner than the other!), a medium and a wide spacer, and a thicker and a thinner lock nut.