r/bikewrench

Found this nice looking old Bianchi Brava on marketplace for $60 I was just wondering if this thing is even worth sinking money into?

Hi,

I've got my old yeti cross country hardtail from high school that I want to put back on the road as a gravel cruiser, cross country, light mountain bike with the family.

The chain is skipping which I'm assuming is a good indication that my drive train needs some replacement. Its never been replaced as long as I've owned the bike (that I remember).

Right now its a 3x7, and I wanted to get some recommendations/advice on what I should replace.

From what I can tell is:

Option 1, replace with a new 3x7 system

Option 2, replace with a 1x9, 1x10, 1,x11, 1x12 system.

Once I figure that out, then I need to get parts.

My initial thought is to keep it simple and stick with the 3x7,

If I go that route, what I think I need(Prices in CAD):

• Front chain rings I think its a black spire, which is now defunked (it is bolted so maybe I can replace the old rings, although I'm guessing its not worth it.) and crankset. - replace
  • FC-M361 $80
  • or FC-M311 $50
• Front derailleur looks pretty beat up - replace
  • Shimano FD-M310 $25
• Chain - replace -
  • Shimano CN-HG71? $40
• Cassette - replace -
  • Shimano CS-HG200-7 (12-32T) $30 CAD
• New cables - replace
• I think the rear derailleur is newish - reuse
• Thumb shifters are still ok as far as I know - reuse

Total cost - $175

These part picks are basically me chat GTPing and googling, I'm totally open to suggestions.

$175 bucks seems very reasonable to me, so if there are suggestions on slightly more $ options I'm open.

Thanks

update; thank you!! I also thought the chain looked too long. Will Take out a couple links to tighten. will also take a look at the info provided for the cable. Thank you!

fixing up an old schwinn bike for my sister. Just replaced chain and tires, and fixed up the brakes. does anyone know what this cable connects to? I know nothing about bikes. It is connected to what would appear to be a shifter but this is a single speed.

I changed my chain the other day after it bursted apart (lots of salt is used on the streets here during winter). Now the gears „jump“ when pedalling and using some force. Since I threw away the rusty chain immediately, I couldn‘t measure the correct length but I used the +2 chain links method.

Does this set up look good to you? Is the chain too short? Do I need to change the cassette?

note its the rear break that makes the noise

I've recently bought a Kuwahara Pacer and installed inverse brake levers (These ones: https://www.bike24.de/p1303587.html?referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F ) but realized too late that they are short pull while I run V-brakes. To tackle this problem I got travel agent problem solver equivalents and installed them acoording to this vid: https://youtu.be/IJEBRCWNC8g?si=DFULvQCSVr45nrBD
Even though I think I did everything the exact same as in the video I don't get them adjusted correctly. They are either way too tight or way too loose and I can't find a middle ground. Also breaking with them feels extremly squishy and there is no "defined" braking point. Am I missing something here? Another question is, if installing mini V-brakes would be way easier and the way to go here? Any help would be greatly appreciated!:)

Having a very strange issue with the freehub on my 2005 mavic deemax rear wheel.

When being ridden at certain speeds the freehub seems to stop ratcheting/ freewheeling normally and makes a grating sound, this causes my chain to lose tension and usually flings my chain off at the same time. The freehub does re engage ok if the chain hasn’t come off, but obviously this makes freewheeling a pain and descents a nightmare of constant chain fiddling or riding like a fixed keeping the freehub engaged.

you can see in the other videos that the bearings are pretty sweet and it even freewheels great upside down/ not being ridden ( i dont have a stand to test upright sorry), which makes this even more confusing to me.

The hub is a Mavic Deemax and I dont have the tools to open it up, but i did drip thin oil down through the cracks of the freehub and that seemed to fix it for a little while, but the problem has came back only after 2 decent length rides. It was in hot, dry storage for 10+ years, so my thinking is to find a bike shop with the right tools and gife the freehub a lube? I’m determined to fix it as these wheels are rare nowadays, and trying to get a new freehub would be costly.

What do you think? Has anyone ever encountered this before and might know the diagnosis?

Cheers!

got side-swiped by a car yesterday. I'm ok. my front wheel took most of the impact. my rim is dented and there's a gash on the brake track. is this wheel salvageable, rideable?

it's a HED Belgium C2 32H (all spokes intact). the damage seems to be only on the exterior; there isn't a split that runs through to the other side.

I bought a new bike and was using a quick rack on my previous. I want to use the same quick rack on this new bike but the UDH bolt blocks passage of the axle. Has anyone came across this before and had a simple fix?

How do I remove this slim lockring? It is on a 90s shimano BB. I have tried all sorts of wrenches, but it is hard to get a grip on this slim disk.
What do I do?
TIA

I’m struggling to fit these new 700x25c tyres with an inner tube and wondering if it’s a sizing issue.

The tyre is covering the rim all around, rather than fitting inside. I’ve seen many complaints online about fitting this tire, but from what I can tell in the videos, the struggle is fitting the last bit of the tire at the end whereas this feels different? The tire almost feels too big for the rim.

These are Alex Rims AT01 ETRTO with a 622 diameter. Previously on these I had a set of Schwalbe Pro Ones 700x23c but I wanted to upgrade to a set better suited for a commute, so I can’t see why these wouldn’t fit. I’ve also confirmed that the marathon tyres are 25-622 28x1.00 700x25c.

Am I missing something simple here? Wondering if I should return the tyres..

Hello everyone!

My first time trying to fix my mechanical disc brakes (tektro md-c510), so sorry if i ask something stupid 😅

So i succesfully replaced the housing, cables, and pads. But no matter how I align the pads or how hard I pull the cable, the levers stay spongy. I spent hours adjusting them and trying different caliper positions but i seem to be missing something.

Good day. This frame is my Kona rove LTD, a steel frame. I stripped out the head of this screw that holds the derailleur hanger to the frame. It uses what I thought was a 3/32nd hex. At least it’s always worked before. This time, the screw seems pretty well stuck. I’ve let wd40 soak in there for a while. Maybe there is something better to loosen a screw? Besides that, I tried using this friction compound you see there. Also tried a t10torx. Wondering if anyone has any other advice short of the LBS? Fine with that too

Thanks

I fell down on some steep downhill part of a gravel race this weekend. I continued to ride another 100km on a rough terrain without any issue. Do you think this rim is done?

I'm planning on taking my bike to my LBS, but it's Sunday and I'm too anxious to wait until Monday.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, first time poster and complete bike repair newbie. I am struggling with even understanding what the issue is here and would really appreciate help with knowing what I'm trying to fix. I've been searching various things about derailleurs and confusing myself!

I have friction shifters and during a ride the rear gear just stopped shifting, it was tight and wouldn't move. When I got home I can see that the derailleur is hanging in a forwards position. I can push it back into place but it doesn't stay there.

What's happening here?