r/bikewrench

Got some new tires and am struggling to mount the last bit of bead on these rims. The previous tires I had were Gravelking slicks and gad to take them to a shop cause they were so ridiculously difficult. I understand what needs to be done here (creating slack for the bead by keeping it in the center of the rim), but what does it look like I’m doing wrong here?

I replaced my bottom bracket. The brand is bucklos 122.5/68mm. I measured my old bottom bracket and the new one (bucklos) is around 2-3mm shorter than the one that I'm replacing. The manual that came with it says a difference of 3-5mm will not be a problem so I proceeded installing it. The drive side sits perfectly however, when I put the non-drive side, it went deeper and the thread of the frame is exposed. Will this be a problem in the future? Is there a way to fix this? Thanks in advance for your responses.

Total noob here. I came across this refurbished Cannondale Supersix going for $1100, which is the exact bike I’ve been looking into. It was equipped with shimano Di2 shifting system. Is it an issue at all for the battery pack to be mounted externally like this? Would this be something that would annoy you? Ive never had wireless shifting and just not sure if this is a red flag or not? Is it reliable? Is there anything I should confirm before buying? Is it dumb to buy an old frame with wireless shifting? Any insight before I pull the trigger would be much appreciated, as I am really new to this world.

Bought these conti tires from an auction near me. They were labeled as “GP5000 S TR 28mm” and came in a matching box, but the sidewall only says “Grand Prix”. Just want confirmation on the exact model so I can be sure i’m able to run them tubeless in the future. Been riding them with inner tubes for a week and they feel great.

Hi team,

shamefully i m coming to you for help. After building around 20 bikes i have today cut a steerer tube way too short. Like 6.5cm too short. Reason for this was that there was another marking line on the steerer which i though was mine.

Now the question before ordering a new fork. Any idea if there is a way to reliably fix this? Even if it comes at extra weight?

I found a very long expander plug https://www.velobike.co.nz/products/expansion-plug-extra-long?srsltid=AfmBOoq2ceDrf2CNsx_ggtEMvg1758wAA5Mqi-URIh4PWPp0lS4BLxM- and am wondering if this would be a reliable fix if additionally bonded with some dual component glue.

Other ideas also welcome.

Hey all, I’m currently in the process of replacing my shift and brake cables with compressionless housing, but one thing I noticed over coiled housing is how stiff these new cables are. For additional context, I run an internal setup with integrated handlebar which is already a pita to service and tucking the new cables in just causes the split ring and handlebar to spring out of the steerer tube. It also gets stiff when I turn the handlebar sharply to one side. I was wondering if there is a proper way to do cable routing or if any of these options should be just fine?

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i don’t want to have a inner gear hub for this bike and i’d love to know if there’s any type of hanger that could fit here:) i’d be willing to grind the bike frame a bit but not sure if that’s very reasonable ahah

edit: thank you all for the help! a claw hanger it is:)

Hello,

I just received my Canyon endurace cf6 2027 model.
It makes this sound, it doenst sounds smooth. What could be the reason for this?
Thanks in advance

Restoring an old bike, that had square taper, cup-and-code bottom bracket. Removed it and determined that:

• thread type is BSA,
• the legacy axle is pitted.

Drivetrain used to be 3x6. I want to convert it to a 1x. I'm thinking of buying a new BB with sealed bearings, but not sure, which upgrade path keeps decent chain line.

Researched three options:

1. New BB with square taper — least appealing since I don't care about legacy cranks nor pedals and replacing those too
2. Shimano Octalink — older tech, but it's still a three-piece system, so maybe better backwards compatibility with the square taper spacing?
3. Upgrading to Shimano Hollowtech —most modern option, but worried it'll throw off the chain line, because bearings are outside the shell.

Some photos of the teardown included.

This is one of the most incomprehensible things that happened to me. My e-bike was stored, unused, for about a year, under a tarp, under a deck at my house. Long story, I'll spare the details.

A year later, I come back to the bike. It has a flat rear tire. I take out the wheel (which was annoying because of the hub motor), inspect the inner tube, and I find a long 5mm (1/4 inch) cut on the inner part of the tube that's making contact with the rim! On the rim, at the spot in contact with the inner tube cut, the aluminum is damaged. Very badly damaged, with two dents and two holes. The holes have sharp edges protruding either above or below the surface of the rim as if someone drove a nail through the rim and bent the nail sideways. These sharp edges are what pierced my inner tube. They also pierced the red plastic strip glued to the rim (to protect the inner tube). And the weirdest: the tire is completely fine, undamaged. It's only the rim and the inner tube that are damaged!

What could have caused this?? I don't even understand how this is possible.

I should note that friends with kids stayed at my house while the bike was stored (and I was away). It's possible a kid accidentally pushed the bike or hit it. But what kind of impact would cause this?

I want to convert it to 1x but I can’t find a way to take the crank set apart? Are they fixed together or am I missing something?

Why is there play in my right shifter when I'm trying to brake? My left shifter is fine and there's no play. I'm running R8000 shifters with Mechanical disc brakes.

Brand new Wh-mt500 front wheel. Is it supposed to have these holes drilled in the rim? There are two identical holes, offset by just over 90 degrees.

So, my Casette had some worn gears and I found myself at Decathlon to get a replacement. The kind of casette I wanted, a 12-28 6 or 7 speed wasn't available, but this 12-32 8 speed was the last one and cheap.

The 32 teeth gear is obviously not accessible by the short derailleur, but the rest of the casette is basically exactly what I came for. Haven't fine tuned the limits yet, but they're already fairly accurate without doing anything.

Is there anything to worry about other than the weight of what is essentially a solid metal dork disk?

Bike was in storage for years. Can't remove them now. Any tips?

Just swapped in a new drivetrain on my brother big bro (slx /deore mix) and it now makes this clicking noise when peddling and am struggling to work out why

Edit - solution Directional chain installed in reverse + incorrect b tension and low limit screw