u/kylemillsy16

Shoe fit issues

For the past week I’ve tried a ton of shoes and sizes (see below), and I’m starting to think nothings gonna fit me right. I have Greek feet, wide forefoot and narrow heel. Ive tried:

Scarpa Instinct VS (41 in store, 41.5 during a climbing session) - 41 was a little painful, 41.5 while climbing gave me too much wiggle room in the toe box. Both heels were much too baggy.

Instinct VSR LV (41.5, 42.5) - 41.5 felt too tight, 42.5 way too loose. Heel slightly baggy but improved over the VS. Size 42 on order.

La Sportiva Solution (40, 40.5) - both felt ok, but were super stiff and look like I was stretching them out a lot

Evolv Shaman/Phantom - bump didn’t work out for me

I might order a 41 VS again and some sizes in the solution comp since I’ve heard it’s softer and more comfortable. What should I do?

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u/kylemillsy16 — 4 days ago

This is fine, right?

4/6 draws in the pack have the same crack. Shouldn’t matter since the rubber just keeps the carabiner straight and they’re replaceable but figured I’d ask for a second opinion before trusting these with my life. Mammut Workhorse Draws, TIA!

u/kylemillsy16 — 5 days ago

Camera gear while climbing

So I had an idea to take photos of friends climbing ropes while on top rope. What would be good ways to tether my camera to my harness? I have a capture clip and it doesn’t fit on the harness. I need something that I can use to clip the camera body to a gear loop while also being able to easily undo it, plus a dynamic tether in case I drop it while shooting. Also the should be on a rear belay loop to reduce risk of damage during a collision with the wall.

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u/kylemillsy16 — 8 days ago

Choosing XS Edge or XS Grip2 for a single shoe quiver

My first pair of shoes are wearing out and I need to get a new pair. They have XS Edge rubber and I’m trying to figure out whether to get Edge or Grip2 on my next shoe. I weight 145lbs and I do lead and bouldering indoors and mostly single pitch sport outdoors. Southern California area so volcanic rock, granite, and sandstone. What makes the most sense for only being able to afford one shoe?

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u/kylemillsy16 — 13 days ago

I was gonna buy two edelrid bulletproof hms carabiners o&o for top rope, but realistically is the wear going to be so severe if I use aluminum lockers instead? id save some money with the latter and I am just curious as to whether or not the steel is worth the extra money. im not even sure how much we would be top roping for single pitch sport anyways

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u/kylemillsy16 — 15 days ago

Looking to sport climb/top rope outside soon and I’ll need some sort of PAS. The lanyard option is very convenient but it’s also an $100 system and I have found relatively bulky. The other option is a sling with a locker, which will be much cheaper and less bulky, but no adjustability. Is it worth the extra money and bulk or just get the sling?

EDIT: If going the sling option, nylon or dyneema, or does it not matter?

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u/kylemillsy16 — 15 days ago

I’ve had these Scarpa Helix’s for almost 3 months, and in those 3 months I’ve climbed literally almost everyday for 2-3 hours each day. They’re my first shoes, so I’m sure the wear is likely due to poor footwork earlier on but how much of this is just due to the volume of climbing I’ve been doing? Is it time for new shoes or do these still have life? Vibram XS Edge btw

u/kylemillsy16 — 17 days ago

I’m currently climbing in scarpa helix (xs edge) and I’m looking to buy instinct vs or vsr. I know the only difference is the rubber, and I’m really tossing and turning a lot about which one is better. I boulder and sport climb indoors and outdoors on granite, sandstone, and igneous rock. I’m ~145 lbs so I’m not sure if that points me in any direction. I just want the best all around performance without sacrificing durability.

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u/kylemillsy16 — 19 days ago

I've had my Scarpa Helix's for a few months, they were my first shoe and I started climbing in mid January. I'm thinking about getting a 2nd shoe for my birthday that is more aggressive and performance oriented. I'm climbing V3 pretty consistently, projecting 4/5 in the gym. I'm also climbing 5.10b/c/d and projecting 5.11 on top rope and lead. I have relatively wide roman feet with no arch. I'm looking for something with a velcro strap closure for bouldering and sport climbing, both indoors and outdoors, reserving my Helix's for longer sessions and future multi pitch. I climb a lot of granite here in California so I definitely don't want a shoe that I'll burn through in 2 months, and edging ability is more important to me than smearing. I'd appreciate any recommendations!

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u/kylemillsy16 — 23 days ago