The Goodyear Blimp was in Detroit for the Woodward Dream Cruise this past weekend. They parked it at the small county airport just a few minutes from my house so I had to get some pics - here’s some of my favorites. Follow @the_nightmist_blues on instagram for more!
Link to Instagram account:
https://www.instagram.com/the\_nightmist\_blues?igsh=YXA3ZnV4ZDE2azdi&utm\_source=qr
Does anyone have CAD files (.stl, .step, .prt or etc) of the OEM style 289 4-barrel intake? I want to 3D print an adapter plate to mount the Carb Cheater control valve on the top of the intake behind the carburetor where the road draft tubes used to mount to. Would save a lot of time in CAD if I don’t have to generate the bolt pattern from scratch. Pic for reference
What’s the correct gasket to use between the spacer and carb?
Definitely going to use the 4-bore w/ no extra holes (pic 4) between the intake and spacer. Not sure which gasket I should use for between the spacer and carb though. Spacer is the 4-bore style. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Anyone in here using the Carb Cheater from Luke (ThunderHead289 on YouTube)? Just ordered one and was curious what people’s experience has been like.
I want to get some sequential taillights for my ‘66. There’s several options out there and was hoping to hear people’s experiences with the different options.
It would be super easy to go with option 1 and do the LEDs, but I don’t like how you can see the individual LEDs, their flashing pattern, and overall difference from that vintage warm glow the 1157 incandescent bulbs give you.
For option 2, has anyone had issues with the power draw of the added bulbs? Between that and the extra heat generated, I feel like it’d be easy to swap in an LED 1157 style bulb. That way it’d cut down on power draw and heat build up, and have the added brightness of LED without seeing the individual LEDs like in option 1.
Option 2: https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-24195440-65-66-mustang-sequential-tail-lights-deluxe.html
Let me know what you guys are running and what you like! Add pics/videos if you can
Looking for some insight to what my options are for a NSS jumper. Just swapped the car from the stock C4 to a T5 and now I have to jump the NSS to get the starter to engage. I know I can easily make a little wire that would do the job, just didn’t know if there was anything a bit more “refined” out there available to purchase. Car doesn’t have reverse lights and don’t plan to put them on so I figured I’d just cap those two wires. If there’s nothing out there already then I might just end up 3D printing something that caps the reverse light wires and jumps the starter wires
EDIT: not trying to hook up the transmission’s NSS to the car’s NSS (don’t think that would even do anything for me?), just want to jump the car’s side of the NSS so I can engage the starter when turning the key
Started up my engine (‘66 289) after sitting for a month during my T5 swap to do my driveway function test of the clutch and transmission. It is making a clunking noise that appears to be once every 720deg of the crankshaft. Engine sounded perfectly fine when I drove it before I started the swap.
Noticed the fuel pump is leaking now. Since the fuel pump rides on the camshaft, could the fuel pump going bad be the source of this clunking noise? (Reddit won’t allow me to attach video of clunking noise)
Ordered a stethoscope and should be here tomorrow to help narrow in on the noise source. Plan to check to see if there’s an issue in the valve train too - wonder if a lifter collapse while it sat without oil for a couple weeks while I was doing my rear main seal and oil pan gasket
Tried putting in my axles with new bearings last night. I would assume the bearing should be flush with the housing? Worried I have the wrong retainer ring on the inside of the bearing
2nd pic = OEM ring
3rd pic = depth of ring from NPD
4th pic = depth of ring from Quick Performance
Watching YouTube like Alf’s Mustang Garage he said sometimes they just need some hammering to seat the bearing inside the housing, so maybe I get a wood block and big hammer and try that tonight.
Always knew this corner of the car wasn’t great, but didn’t know it had gotten this bad. Any recommendations for shops that do rust repair on classic Mustangs in the metro Detroit area? I don’t mind driving further out to the surrounding area for a reputable shop that won’t take me over the coals.
Is this a park it till it’s fixed or drive it this summer and fix it this winter? Pics are of driver side front leaf spring bolt area
EDIT: Car is going to be parked until this issue is addressed
Any ideas where this coolant leak would be coming from on my ‘66 289? I get the occasional puddle behind the water pump and noticed this little stream of coolant on the front of the block plate while doing my T5 swap. Thermostat housing was replaced recently, and paired with the leak on the block plate I don’t think it’s from there. Only thing I can think of is the intake gasket.
Could use some help deciding on new carpet color. Exterior is Nightmist Blue and interior is the dark and light blue combo (last pic). Leaning towards dark blue but didn’t know if anyone in here knows the exact color that came with my exterior/interior color combo. Car is a ‘66 BTW.
Thanks!
Found this cable thing tucked between my steering box and frame rail. Any ideas what it may be?
I’m trying to install my T5 into my 289. I cannot get the transmission to go in all the way and sit flush with the bell housing. I’ve removed the shifter and put a jack under the oil pan to get the angles to line up but still no luck. I’m stuck about 1/4” from the bell housing. Got the bottom two bolts to thread into the bell housing but I’m concerned about either stripping the aluminum BH threads and/or something binding up and getting damaged because it’s getting forced together.
Am I missing something or do I just gotta keep wiggling and shaking and get lucky and it slip in all the way?
Replacing axle bearings on my 8” rear end while I’m upgrading my center section. The old bearing retainer rings are a stepped design but the new ones I received are a straight cylinder. Any idea if these are the incorrect retainer rings or will they still work?
EDIT: Got the new bearings, retainer rings, and center section from Quick Performance. Gave them a call and they said the difference in the retainer ring is normal. Still would be interested to hear if anyone in here has had success or issues with the newer style of retainer ring.
Gonna replace the gross old carpet in my ‘66 and had a few questions. The original color is preserved under the floor mats. Any idea if this is Ford Blue, Dark Blue or Medium Blue carpet? Should I do sound deadening and a mass backed carpet, or just one or the other? Any favorite brands/places to buy?
Thanks everyone!